• Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 System 3
Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603

Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 is one of the most popular color of Line Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

Full glazed polished tiles are on the basis of the traditional polishing brick surface glazing and polishing products, whole set polished tile and glazed ceramic products archaize brick both advantages in one, not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening, like archaize brick pattern of design and color is rich, thick gorgeous color, natural texture, and the environmental protection and energy saving, service life long advantages and the low barriers to entry.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603 Polished Porcelain Tile Line Stone CMAX32601/32602/32603


FAQ

               

    1. Q: May I have my own design?

      A: Of course. But the pictures or samples of the products should be offered by your party.

    2. Q: May I ask for some samples?

      The samples are free. You just need to pay for samples’ courier cost.

    3. Q: Can wall tile be used on the floor?

      A: Not in most cases. Please check with your installer or YIJIANG for application recommendations.

    4. Q: Can floor tile be used on the wall?

      A: Yes. Exterior applications require special precautions and installation methods. Please check with your installer or YIJIANG for application recommendations.



Q:We are renovating our bathroom and I don‘t want to take out the existing vanity just update it, we were considering tiling the countertop, can we go right over the existing laminate or should we remove the whole counter top, or is it possible to just take off the laminate?
I tiled over the laminate in my kitchen by sanding the laminate with coarse sandpaper....priming with oil-based kilz-it and then tiled and grouted. It's still in the kitchen for over 7 years. You could also remove the countertop from the cabinet and replace with 1/2 plywood topped with 1/4 cement board but you would have to cut out the whole for the sink. Tiling over it is much easier. Just figure out your tile layout. I used 12 tiles for my custom countertop in my bathroom.
Q:Hey there. We are in the process of adding a half bath to our home. We purchased tiles months ago at a tent sale at out local tile store. We have some wall corners that might require bullnosed corner tiles but this wasnt taken into account when we purchased the tiles and now we cannot find matching bullnose tiles anywhere.......Is there any was to finish the wall edges without using bullnosed tiles and have it still look good???
Bnose tile is a new simplified way of doing tile and was to remove one of the grout edges. So all you have to do is grout the top like they did in the old days a few years ago. You could also use a thin lat of flat trim, a brass or stainless steel edging, or caulking that matches the wall or tile. I think the simple grout is your best bet. PS. Where corners meet If the tile is same color through they can show. If it is glazed colored or just a thin color on top then no. In that case cut the tile back so that they do not quite reach the corner. Then there will be a slight inverted corner where you will grout or caulk. In neither case would you want to miter the corner. It will be too sharp and thin corners would be weak enough to chip.
Q:Do you have, or know someone who has these tiles in the bathroom? What is their experience?
It depends also how well they stick to the underlying surface. make sure surface is clean and dust free. I used a flooring recently that looks like 12 x 12 tile but the pieces are 12 x 36 and they have an overlay that sticks together. it is a floating floor. Has been trouble free. Good luck
Q:I just finished my bathroom but when i used the oil based kilz there was a little spray back that landed on the tile floor.
Depending on the type of tile you might be able to use a sharp knife (exacto or paring knife) and gently remove the spots. If you have any kind of ceramic tile that would work (in my experience) except perhaps on the grouted areas. If you have grout and the Kilz is in/on the grout you might have to actually scrape some of the grout off and then reseal the grout. Good luck. It's laborious work but it should work. If you have linoleum tile I wouldn't do that because it might remove the finish. The next time you go to the paint dept. at the store ask them how to do it if you haven't solved the problem
Q:Now very popular tile 80X80 pink above the tea stains, how can effectively remove the tea stains?
Use salt and toothpaste to wipe off the rust on the white tiles. Dip a small amount of salt and toothpaste with a wet gauze and wipe the rust on the white tiles with a gauze dipped in salt and toothpaste. The effect is remarkable. The effect is not significant, then you can squeeze some toothpaste to wipe. When your home in the basin after use, there is a bad oil to remove, with toothpaste can also be scrubbed, not only the effect is remarkable, and eliminates the need to scrub the basin with a steel ball scratches. ? The answer was adopted by users
Q:I live in a single-level ranch style house but on a concrete pad. I am re-tiling the kitchen floor. Upon removing the old tile, I discovered a 15 lb. felt pad had been glued to the floor; on top of this pad was thin set; then the tile. I live in Bakersfield, CA which is a dry and arrid climate.
YIKES!! Even in the High Desert of California, there is moisture underground. But, getting to your question: a) If your pad was poured over a vapor barrier (visqueen, typically), you do not need to add anything new *as a vapor barrier*. b) It cannot hurt to install a sealer on top of the concrete before you install new tile in any case. That will reduce the dusting in any case. c) But I am thinking that the felt paper you found was installed as a strain-relief rather than a vapor-barrier. It allows the tile to move differently than the concrete slab. This becomes important if there are extreme changes in outside temperature - which penetrates the edges of the slab and varies with the time-of-day - with relatively constant temperature inside. If the tile is bonded directly to the concrete as those temperature changes take place it will begin to spall and separate - not good as even a few fractions of an inch of difference will be enough to break the bond between the tile and the concrete. Were it up to me, I would install a strain-relief (AKA underlayment) with the new tile. There are liquid applications (Laticrete) and sheet goods (Durock) which come to mind and are very effective as a bond-breaker yet give a solid, reliable surface to hold the tile. These are only two of many and are linked below.
Q:Does anyone know if I can lay ciramic tile over the dull worn out linoleum floor in my kitchen? I don‘t want to peel up the linolium because of the insane amount of labor it will take, and make the sub floor un even. any suggestions? Will tiles still stick to this material?Thanks!
You don't have to remove the old linoleum. But, you must prepare the surface for tiling. If the floor flexes at all, you could end up with cracked tiles or grout just by walking on the floor. You also need to put something down over the linoleum surface for the tile to stick to. First, you nail down a layer of hardy-backer. This is about a 1/4 to 3/8-inch cement-based wallboard. Next, you have to float about 1/4 inch of mastic on the hardy-backer to make a nice, flat surface (like pouring a cement floor). You then put about a 15-pound slipsheet on top of the wet mastic and let it set. The slipsheet allows minute movements of the subfloor due to thermal expansion without stressing the set tile. Once the mastic sets (usually overnight), you can begin setting the tile.
Q:I am about to renewing my kitche.I plan to install tile.Well I have no tile cutter but I do have a simple, regular cutt off electrical tools and a diamond blade.Should this be enough for it?
A okorder /
Q:How can I remove ceramic tiles from a bathroom wall without damage the wall itself, as I want to paint the wall. Would steam help loosen the glue used?
If you are just concerned about removing the tiles, and don't care if they are damaged during the removal, then chisel and hammer would work. However! If you are trying to keep those old tiles in tact, it's a much more difficult process. Secondly, you said the walls were plaster (and lathe behind that?) Once those walls are compromised, it's a lot of work to re-plaster. Other options: 1. Call a company who resurfaces old tiles with another colored ceramic coating, 2) Cut out those sections of walls and install other materials, like granite, abbatibi (sp?) , fiberglass sections, or 3) pull down the old walls, put up new greenboard and re-tile with the tiles of your choice. If you want an excellent result, I'd go with the third choice, but it is A LOT of work. A few weeks if you are working part time and really know what you are doing. If it's not really important to have it last for say, more than 7 years, I'd just have a company re-coat the tile. It'll take them 1-4 days and will cost equal to or less than the other options. Good Luck! It' an ambitious project.
Q:how do i start my own tiling business?
Hi okorder

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