Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-C8503
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shekou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Specification
Product Brief Introduction
Polished Porcelain Floor Tile is wildly used all over the world. CMAX-C8503 is one of the most popular color of Palosa Stone Serie, which is one quite new and popular serie of Polished Porcelain Tile and have been shipped to many countries. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.
Product Features
Polished Porcelain Floor Tile, Double Loading
Grade AAA quality level
Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing
Competitive price
Packing Standard: Pater Carton+ Solid Wooden Pallet
Fast delivery: 3 weeks after the receipt of the deposit or order confirmation
OEM service could be offered
Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing
Product Specification
Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile
Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001
Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%
Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N
Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%
Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%
Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3
Glossiness: 》 87 Degree
Resistance to Chemical: Class UA
Resistance to Staining: Class 3.
Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)
For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl
For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl
Production Line & Package
FAQ
1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?
—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.
2. What is the MOQ for this tile?
—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.
3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?
—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.
4. For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?
—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.
5. Could you company supply glazed porcelain tile?
—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of glazed porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 30*60, and 30*30.
6. Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?
—— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.
- Q: how I can install ceramic tile on a wall and what tools do I need to do so? Any other tip that I should know about it to do a good job would be appreciated.
- Okay, the gory details are too numerous to detail here. Basically, you need: notched trowel for your tile size, grout float, wet saw/tile cutter, tile cleaning sponge, blue painter's tape, Mastic/thiinset, and grout. The grout should be unsanded for gaps between tiles less than 1/8. For gaps 1/8 or greater, use sanded grout. Thinset works well but is a pain in the b*tt to mix and has a short working time. I recommend you use Mastic or a similar product. You will have to remove all outlet and light switch wall plates as well as loosening the screws on all outlets and switches so you can install the tile underneath them. Otherwise, your switches and outlets will be recessed behind the wall plates and will look terrible. Of course, remove power at your fuse panel/breaker panel to each switch and outlet you work on before you do any of this. You will need to rough up your wall so that it has a good tooth for the Mastic to adhere to. I recommend either 60 grit sandpaper or a wire wheel in a drill. Rough it up in a horizontal direction. This will reduce the chance of tile droop (sliding down) after installation. Mark the boundaries of your backsplash with blue painter's tape to prevent Excess Mastic/grout from getting onto the painted part of your wall. Do a dry layout first, of your backsplash to check its look before you put it up. Now's the time to make any last-minute changes. Work from the bottom up. Use spacers between tiles. Cut tiles to fit around outlets, switches, and any other wall obstructions. Clean up any excess Mastic from between tiles, otherwise there won't be room for the grout. Let dry 24 hours before grouting. Use the float for grouting. Push the grout into the spaces between tiles. Don't worry about getting grout on the tiles. This will be cleaned up. Wait about fifteen minutes, then with a damp, clean sponge, wipe away the excess grout. That's about it. Check with other tile professionals and get their tips and advice as well.
- Q: I need two more floors tiles to match my kitchen floor. The floor was down before we moved in. how i can find out what type of tile it is?
- If the tiles are not recent or a popular style, you will have to do a lot of looking. Why not use black?
- Q: Dont want to lay down the rock. Want to attach strait to the plywood due to dish washer stove and cabinets. What is the best way for long lasting tile strait to plywood?
- Going straight to the ply wood sub floor will only result in failure of the tile to bond. There will be to much deflection in the floor , the bond will break between the thin set and the sub floor. There is a thinner system you can use called Ditra. Thin mat that is applied to the sub floor and then tiled over. If your dishwashers adjustable legs can be adjusted more or if they re all the way adjusted to max you can tile up to them. You ll still be able to get the washer out. I have seen one yet that can t be taken out,its a struggle but it can be done. I suggest the 1/2 cement board,properly installed, since this meets all tile codes,(both ATC and TCA) to properly support tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q: I have to remove the old tiles and install new ones. Please can someone who does this for a living guide me in the right direction?
- Any okorder /... The wall tile install process is to involved to answer here. Get a pro to do it. Builder 30 years.
- Q: ive never tiled anything before. i was thinking of replacing our old tiles around the fireplace and puttnig in slate ones. i am wondering if its a bigger project than it seems. will i have to remove the mantle to do it. is it harder to tile something on the wall or fireplace than the floor? should i just seek a professional or is it easy?thanks
- I don't know about horrible but certainly impractical; unless the fireplace is merely decorative; or an electric one. TILE is usually fired at approx. 2000 degrees; essentially creating glass. It's highly unlikely you'd ever have a fireplace fire get that hot...Hopefully. The issue is more that constant stress on the tile in heating and cooling; and the effect on any mortar you choose. Beyond that is the issue of the tile being hidden most often; and the need to clean it often to be able to view it when no fire is present. Fireplaces are crafted using Brick, that allows no such effects from temp variations, and offers some level of insulation against the heat produced within the confines of the fireplace. Certainly you might consider tiling a hearth; or creating a hearth that you can tile; but it seems a bit defeating to tile into a fireplace. Tile; especially floor type; are created through different heat ranges and substances; to be graded in durability. Assume something like A being the least durable, and D being the most durable. That equates to normal traffic and wear. I'll assume someone will tell you; Sure; there are heat resistant tiles and mortars but I'll go back to my notion of the aesthetics and ask why bother? Steven Wolf
- Q: We are wanting to get rid of old wood floors. We are debating tile vs. concrete finished floors. Pro/cons? What about cost difference.
- Tile can cost from about $1 and sqaure foot plus, thinset and grout plus the cost to install it. If you do it yourself it's free of course if you hire someone then it can cost from about $2 a square foot on up. so, it depends on how manyh sqare feet you have. Concrete flooring looks okay. It has an industrial look. It cracks very often and costs around $3 a square foot according to a friend of mines estimate. I say go with tile. It's a lot easier to clean and more durable and lasts a lot longer.
- Q: We recently had new porcelain tile installed on our guest bath floor, and we‘d like to clean it regularly without harming the tiles and grout. The tile installer had no recommendations about this process, nor did the tile company where we made the purchase. Researching this info is very confusing. Some sites recommend using only a wet mop, while others claim that vinegar diluted in water is appropriate; others advise using some type of manufactured cleaning product. We know that regular sweeping is necessary, but we‘re unsure which products to use to protect our new floor. If you suggest a wet mop, please advise which is best: Shark, Eureka, Bissell, etc. Thanks for any detailed advice you can provide.
- Hpofully the grout was seald. If tou have hard water you will get calcium buids up on porcelan.One way is Muratic acid (pool acid) deluted 10 to 1 The safe way is a pumas stone scrubber you can buy at any pool store. The vinigar will work but not as well. Lime away is also a good cleaner if you have hard water. If your installer didnt seal your grout do this first , the tile supplier can supply this. B^
- Q: I want to rip up the old linoleum in my bathroom and install some tile. The previous owners laid the current layer of linoleum on top of the original linoleum. From the little bit I‘ve peeled up to look underneath it looks like chip board underneath that. Does that mean I need to lay some kind of backerboard underneath the tile? I also plan on tearing out the curent cabinets and installing new ones. Should I install the tile or the cabinets first?
- You need to install the Cabinets first in most cases unless you want to run tile all the way underneath. Kind of a waist of money if you ask me.. YES you should use a HARDY BOARD or Concrete Board under the tile over the Chip Board. Your Plywood floors shift under weight from time to time and if this happens you will be faced with pop-ed tiles or worse yet completely broken. Use Drywall Screws to fasten it to the floor and fill the cracks and screw holes with ThinSet Mortar and let dry before you start laying tile. If you put the cabinets in before tile it will give you a VERY straight line to work from as a starting point and will easily save you $100.00-$800.00 in tile and materials by not putting tile under the cabinets. Hope It Helps!!!
- Q: I like the original quarry tiled floor from our 60‘s kitchen, but they are quite badly stained. I can‘t pretend they have any historic value, or even were particularly well laid, so on balance should I1) Replace with new tiles, perhaps up to a higher standard2) Get a specialist to restore them to something approaching their original stateWhich will cost more, and what would you do?
- Quarry tiles are made from unrefined extruded, high silica alumina clay that gets pressed into the desired form and hard burnt. They are hard and durable but have a softer composition than ceramic tiles. It is an unglazed form of tile, which comes in a natural colour selection, red, brown and beiges. A good and cheap place to start is to try using raw linseed oil. This will usually remove most of your tough stains. You want to be careful about using acids on real quarry tile because they are very porous and acids could etch your tiles permanently. If the linseed oil doesn't do the trick then a more expensive alternative would be using Lithofin Victorian Tiled Floor Restorer and a good sealer is HG Golvpolish. You should be able to get these from good tile retailers. If the tiles are laid on earth, or on a lime bed on earth, they should not be sealed as they need to breath to avoid damp being trapped. The original tile finish was a clear oil and of course this still allows the tile to breath. Try Slate Dressing from a fireplace shop, this is colourless and will give a richness to the tiles.. Hope this helps.
- Q: We currently have vinly tile in our tiny kitchen. We want to upgrade but want something that looks nice and is easy to install. What would you recommend (not wood)? Also, would we have to take up the vinyl floor tiles or install on top of it?
- When you lay tile you have to start in the middle of the room or else the corners won't correspond. The wall seem straight but they are not. Remember, I told you.
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Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-C8503
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shekou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 500 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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