Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-C8302

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Shekou
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Polished Porcelain Tile: Polished Porcelain Tile

Product Description:

Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Floor Tile is wildly used all over the world. CMAX-C8302 is one of the most popular color of Original Stone Serie, which is one quite new and popular serie of Polished Porcelain Tile and have been shipped to many countries. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Floor Tile, Double Loading

  Grade AAA quality level

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Packing Standard: Pater Carton+ Solid Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery: 3 weeks after the receipt of the deposit or order confirmation

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 87 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-C8302

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading CMAX-C8302

                                              

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

        4.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

        —— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as COSCO, MSC, HPL etc. We have a very professional logistic team to arrange the shipping issue well.

 

        5.   Could you company supply glazed porcelain tile?

        —— Yes. We could supply various kinds of glazed porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 30*60, and 30*30. 

 

         6.   Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?

         —— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.

 

 

 

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Q:Can you ceramic tile on top of ceramic floor tiles already laid?
yes you can
Q:can you carpet over tile?
Carpet Over Tiles
Q:Self stick tile for my kitchen to go over top of ceramic tile?
Cons would be that it costs close to $10 a square foot. I also doubt that it looks as good in person as the site claims. I've installed a lot of surface coverings, including tile-textured vinyl wallpaper and a variety of peel and stick material and they rarely look that convincing when they are right under your nose, as a countertop backsplash would be. That's a lot of money for a coverup job, And you don't say where the tile is installed. Walls? Countertop? Floors? That stickandgo is strictly for walls, not any area that would have moisture lying on it or traffic. If it is just your walls it would be a lot cheaper just to hire someone to tear off the ceramic tile and put up something different. It only cost me $6 a square foot for labor and $3 for material to have a real ceramic subway tile back splash installed in my kitchen last year. It would be even less if you did it yourself. If you are thinking of covering a floor, look at the Trafficmaster Allure material at Home Depot -- excellent product and about $2 a square foot. Installs like a dream, completely waterproof, can go over an uneven surface, adheres to itself, not what is behind it (it floats), easy to remove later, and both the tile and wood versions look and feel absolutely real. We did my friend's large bathroom with it in less than 4 hours last winter and it looks like a hardwood floor and holds up to anything. I used the slate-look tiles in my breakfast room of my previous house and everyone who saw it thought it was real stone. If it's your countertops, it is easy and cheap to replace countertops with new laminate and the new laminates are not your Grandma's formica -- many look like high-end granite and even metals.
Q:A roof tile falls off the roof of a house. An observer inside the house notices that the tile took 0.2 s...?
Average velocity of tile in falling past window = 1.6/0.2 = 8m/s This is the instantaneous velocity of the tile half way down the window in time. This means that the tile had a velocity of 8m/s 0.1 sec after it reached the top of the window. How long does it take a falling body to attain velocity of 8m/s, v = u +at 8 = 0 + 9.8t t= 8/9.8 t = 0.816sec 0.816 - 0.1 = 0.716 seconds Therefore it reached the top of the window in 0.716 seconds. How far must the tile fall to attain a velocity of 0.716 sec? s = ut + ½*a*t² s = 0 + ½*9.8*0.716² s = 2.5m The tile fell from height 2.5m above the top of the window.
Q:where to get floor tiles @ good price?
IKEA. Ikea FTW. cheap and good quality.
Q:rustic tiles spacing?
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder ..you will either love them or not ..they don't suit everybody ...these rustic tiles as you know have misshapen edges ...but they are all the same shape!...so lay them out flat ...you will need nine ...and work out beforehand the way the tiles are to be laid ...if you do them all the same way you can work out the spacers ...but you must keep to the pattern ...when grouted no one will see there is a pattern
Q:Questions about laying slate tile?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q:Screws in Ceramic tile?
Drill a hole using a masonry bit. THen use a hinged wall anchor to hold the towel hool securely on the wall!Installing a towel bar or toilet-paper holder often requires drilling through glazed ceramic tile, which is no easy task. Use a carbide-tipped masonry bit; regular twist-drill bits can't cut through the fire-hardened glaze. You'll also need to keep the bit from slipping off the glossy surface. The secret: Put two strips of masking tape onto the tile in an X pattern. Then drill through the tape — ou'll feel the bit grind as it goes through the glazing. Drill through the tile and into the drywall or backer board. Just be sure to lighten pressure at the end to ensure a clean hole at the rear of the drywall or backer board to accommodate a hollow-wall fastener.
Q:How to pull up tile to save money on cost to install new tile?
If you do not plan on replacing the old baseboard with new, then you should gently remove it using a small pry bar and mallet. If you can't find the pry bar, a flat head screwdriver works alright.. Once you have pulled it away from the wall you might need to remove the nails to get it off without damage. If your tile has been on there since the beginning of time, you might have a little trouble removing it as back then the mastic used was quite different then what is used now. It really stuck! I am guessing you are talking about ceramic and not linoleum or vinyl tile. You can get a long handled scraper at just about any hardware store and they don't cost that much. That will save you allot of time. If you do not plan on saving the tiles, a 8 lb . sledge hammer will do the job of loosening the tiles from the floor but please make sure you wear eye protection. Then just scrape them up as you go along. If your tiles are the vinyl ,peel stick, or linoleum a good hot hair dryer works to soften the adhesive allowing you to scrape up the tiles. I'm sure a professional would recommend a heat gun though. I have removed and replaced both types and just to let you know it is not a easy or fun job. Wear rubber gloves if you can and keep a bottle of baby oil close by just in case you get the mastic on your hands.
Q:how to install self stick tile?
First you decide if you want a seam or a row of tiles in the middle. Make sure the floor is clean and without divots (fill in any holes). Drop a chalk line down the center of the room and lay a row of tiles dry (no stick) along the line to see how they look. You don't want one end to leave a sliver and the other end to leave almost a full tile - try to balance the ends that have to be cut. Now dry-lay a perpendicular row from the center to check the ends going across the room. Lay a full tile or its edge down on the chalk line. This first tile will be used to orient all your tiles so make sure you're satisfied with the placement. Then lay a whole permanent row of full tiles down the center. Now you have to decide if you want the tiles layed side by side or brick wall pattern. Next lay the perpendicular row down permanently. Now all you have to do is fill in the quadrants as far as you can go with full tiles. After all your full tiles are down, it's the cut ones that remain. Slide a full tile in place up to the wall and mark where you have to cut. Peel and stick tiles usually can be cut with a sheetrock knife and a metal straight edge or a good pair of shears. Some of the cuts can be tricky - I can't see them so you'll have to muddle through.

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