• Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17 System 3
Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17

Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or L/C
Min Order Qty:
1 x 20' FCL m²
Supply Capability:
100000 M2 Per Month m²/month

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Basic Information of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17:

1.Size:60x60/80x80cm tile

2.Certificate:CE ISO

 

3.W.A.<0.5%

 

4.Material:Porcelain

 

Features of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17:                        

 

1. Size:600*600mm;800*800mm  Porcelain tile

 

2.Various colors are available;Fashion and elegant pattern tile

 

3. Usage: use in Inner Floor.

 

4. Engobe(water proof)

 

5. Certificate:CE;ISO;SONCAP

 

6.Tile Minimum order: 1x20'FCL (items we have in stock can be mix loading)

 

7.Delivery Time : within 25 days after received 30% payment by TT

 

8.Payment term: L/C; T/T, 30% deposit, balance paid before loading.

 

9.Packing: standard carton with wooden pallet or per customers' request

 

Specification of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17: 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17

 

Normal Size of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17:                             

 

600*600mm,800*800mm

 

Advantage Of Our Factory:                            

 

1.Very Competitive Price:

 

2. High Quality

 

3. Immediate Response

Main Export Markets:

  • Eastern Europe

  • North America

  • Mid East/Africa

  • Central/South America

  • Asia

  • Western Europe

  • Australia

 

Production and Packing Pictures of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17:

Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17

Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17Polished Porcelain Tile CILO38A17

 

Q:After completing a bathroom tile job, including a tile baseboard border about 6 up from the floor, we have dried thinset in on the actual wall - places we missed during cleanup. I‘ve tried using some scrapers (plastic and metal), and the dried thinset is like concrete (naturally) and is pulling layers of drywall off with it. Is there a solvent or better way to remove the dried thinset from both the wall and the exposed rim of the tiles? As a last resort I might be okay with slight damage to the walls as they need serious prep anyway before paint, but I do want to make sure i haven‘t missed some very obvious, easier, better solution first.
muriatic acid - at home crappot or lowe's
Q:I need to repair my shower, about 6 tiles fell off. I‘m currently drying the drywall with a fan. Whats the best way to glue tile back on the wall?
u get wet setting adhesives use such glue and bond tiles u need not dry the surface at all
Q:Has anyone every used Ceramic Tiles to re-do bathroom floors? I‘ve seen it done on HGTV but just wanted to knw if it was really that easy?
We've tiled a few rooms, it's not hard, but it takes time and practice. Here's what you need to know: Laying out the grid can be time consuming, but very worth the trouble. Cutting tiles straight across or boxy is easy. Curves are more challenging- don't expect a perfect arc. You don't have to do glue down the tiles all at once, but you do want to do the grout all at once. DEFINITELY use the spacers that you can put ONE in the middle of the four corners and stick above the tiles to pull out easily. The tiles need to dry in the glue at least a day before grouting. Consider the color of your grout as carefully as the color of tile you buy. Mix the grout carefully and use a tile sponge to get the grout smooth. Carefully clean as much grout as possible off the tiles. The grout must dry at least a day before sealing. You should re-seal your grout to maintain your floor as directed on the sealant. The spray on sealer is magic for smaller areas. A large area might get expensive and more time consuming?
Q:I have a 15x15 tile that is on the floor in front of a gas fireplace (never been used) that has a hairline crack in it. The tile is one of 4 on the floor and matches 8 others that ring the face of the gas fireplace, the bathrooms and the kitchen. I cannot find the same tile to replace it. There is no elevation difference across the crack.Is there a method to fill the hairline crack so it doesn‘t stand out like a sore thumb?
If you must fix the crack, go to a stone fabrication company, they have a product called akimi that can be colored to match the tile and will harden when mixed with a hardner. The only problem is that tile does not crack unless the tile is not bonded or the substrate moves, so your one tile may be the first of many to crack. Take a broom handle and tap the tile, the cracked one might have a hollow sound, if it does, it is not bonded well to the floor. tap the others to see if you have other problems.
Q:I ripped up all the existing tile, it was small tiles that I had to chisel up. There is quite a bit of thinset that is bonded to the wood floor and its impossible to get it all up. If I try and chisel it all off I end up ripping up the wood and making it worse.I think the wood sub floor is sitting on another older piece of sub floor but i‘m not sure.What are my options here?- put cement board over it (do i need to put waterproof membrane?) and then tile it? If I do this the bathroom floor will be slightly higher then the hallway floor.- Can I use self leveler on the wood subfloor and then tile over it? it would probably be the ideal height.- Do I chance ripping up the subfloor and doing cement board and then tile?Am I missing any other options?
In the UK tile adhesive is made for cement and wooden floors combined as this has a latex type compound in it that makes it harden but stay pliable as well to allow for a bit of movement under the tile. If you have cleaned most of your thinset off and are left with some still on but not higher than say 4mm (preferably less) then I would say just to lay the tiles as if the floor was completely clean. If worried about how to lay the adhesive on an uneven floor do what I have done which is to apply the adhesive to the back of the tile first, using a tile cement applicator with ridges deeper than the high points of the thinset, flip the tile over and lay/tap/level into position. Don't walk on for 36 hrs minimum after laying.
Q:i was pouring grout on my tile floor and it dryed too fast. how can i get rid of it?
Moisten the joints between the tiles with a little bit of water. This makes the grout naturally flow into the crevices and away from the face of your tile. Work in small sections, cleaning the surface of the tile as you go. The longer you wait, the more the grout will set and the harder it will be to remove. Clean the tiles with a damp sponge. After you apply the grout to the joints of the tiles, use a damp sponge to wipe the surface of each tile clean. You may want to go over it a few times to make sure that no excess grout remains. Sweep all the grout to one area, and then wipe it with a rag if necessary. Find a pH balanced cleanser. If grout or residue still remains on the tile, use a gentle cleaner to scrub the surface. If you left the grout on too long and it cured on the tile, you may need an acid-based solution.
Q:we are planning on replacing our livingroom carpet, !/2 of it withceramic tile. Is there any do‘s and don‘ts to consider. Thanks.
I think you should do the whole thing in tile. Not only is it better for resale value, but better for your health also. The other poster is right, the subfloor is the most important thing. It needs first to be level, and second to be of the right substrate. I am guessing you have a plywood subfloor. If it is level, spread a layer of thinset, then screw cement board down over top of it. This will give you a good surface. Laying the tile is not too hard for a DIYer. Just follow the directions on the thinset bag and on the grout bag. I'll throw some resources in below.
Q:I have 12x12 field tile and a strip of accent that‘s about 2 high. Everything I‘ve read says that you want to have the accent at eye level, which makes sense to me. Judging for myself, it LOOKS best at eye level. If I place it at eye level, I wind up with a full 12x12 tile above it, or at least, a 12 space above it. So going down to the tub, I would have a 2 1/2 cut tile at the bottom, right above the tub.Everything I have read also says that you want to have the cut tiles at the top and bottom symmetrical.
Provided the tub is fairly level, start a full tile at the bottom and work up. Tile will look fine at a 5 or six foot level ( I prefer 5 ft.) Not every one has the same eye level so the strip will be fine. The tub surround will be a bit different too so what I suggest is measuring on the tub wall the tile heights and stand back and look at it. Use a pc of tape the approx width of the strip and tape it or draw it on the tub wall s prior to tiling. Will give you a better idea. Also take into account any fixtures you may put in such as a shampoo/soap shelf. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. I ve also have down 100s of tub surrounds. GL
Q:best way to install floor 12inch by 12 inch floor tile
First you decide if you want a seam or a row of tiles in the middle. Make sure the floor is clean and without divots (fill in any holes). Drop a chalk line down the center of the room and lay a row of tiles dry (no stick) along the line to see how they look. You don't want one end to leave a sliver and the other end to leave almost a full tile - try to balance the ends that have to be cut. Now dry-lay a perpendicular row from the center to check the ends going across the room. Lay a full tile or its edge down on the chalk line. This first tile will be used to orient all your tiles so make sure you're satisfied with the placement. Then lay a whole permanent row of full tiles down the center. Now you have to decide if you want the tiles layed side by side or brick wall pattern. Next lay the perpendicular row down permanently. Now all you have to do is fill in the quadrants as far as you can go with full tiles. After all your full tiles are down, it's the cut ones that remain. Slide a full tile in place up to the wall and mark where you have to cut. Peel and stick tiles usually can be cut with a sheetrock knife and a metal straight edge or a good pair of shears. Some of the cuts can be tricky - I can't see them so you'll have to muddle through.
Q:What is the standard water absorption of tiles?
According to China's national standards for testing tiles, tiles according to the different water absorption, divided into porcelain brick (water absorption E ≤ 0.5%), fine stoneware tile (water absorption 3% ≤ E ≤ 6%), stoneware brick (water absorption 6 % ≤ E ≤ 10%), ceramic brick (water absorption of 10% or more) and so on. The test method should be tested on the back of the brick body. The moisture absorption of the tiles is related to the breaking strength, abrasion resistance and gloss performance. Generally speaking, the lower the water absorption of tiles, the better the tiles, the higher the product strength, wear resistance and gloss performance is better, the product is not prone to cracking or peeling. And high water absorption of the tiles after the thermal expansion and contraction will lead to tile surface cracks and the overall tile peeling, especially in the choice of toilet paving tiles more attention to this problem. To determine the size of the water absorption also has a simple method, the water absorption rate, also known as seepage rate, the simplest test method is to drop some water on the tile to do the experiment, after a few minutes, wipe the tile surface of the water, if not left any Traces, to prove that the water absorption of tiles is very low. If you leave the water mark tiles discoloration, then the ceramic tile water absorption is higher.
We are a modern high-tech company specialized in producing high-grade polished porcelain tiles, micro crystal composite tiles, rustic tiles and ceramic wall tiles. Our Company has its large-scale production base in Nanhai and Enping, which are equipped with the most advanced large-tonnage presses and fully automated production equipments. Its annual production capacity will be over 36 million square meters, with technology among the international advanced level.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Guangdong, China
Year Established 2003
Annual Output Value Above US$ 90 Million
Main Markets 8.00% Mid East
15.00% Northern Europe
15.00% North America
12.00% Eastern Asia
10.00% Africa
9.00% Eastern Europe
20.00% Southeast Asia
4.00% Oceania
3.00% Western Europe
2.00% Southern Europe

Mid East; Eastern Europe; North America
Company Certifications ISO 9001:2008;CCC,CE

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port Foshan, China
Export Percentage 41% - 50%
No.of Employees in Trade Department 20-30 People
Language Spoken: English; Chinese; Spanish
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size: Above 100,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines Above 10
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered
Product Price Range High; Average

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