• Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron System 1
  • Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron System 2
  • Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron System 3
  • Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron System 4
Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron

Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 unit
Supply Capability:
100000 unit/month

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Non-rising resilient seated gate valves solve the problem in general gate valves such as leakage, rusting etc. and saves installation space. It is used widely in tap water industry, sewage treatment, shipping construction, petroleum, chemicals, food, pharmacy, textile, electric power, metallurgy and energy system's pipeline to adjust and shut off fluids.

l  Replaceable O-ring

l  Low torque operation

l  Rubber encapsulated wedge

l  Clockwise closing direction

l  Fusion bonded epoxy coated inside and outside

 

Specification

Body materials: Ductile Iron/Metal

Design standard: DIN3352 F5/F4, according to requirements

Design pressure: PN10/PN16/PN25

Size: DN80mm-DN2000

Connect type: Flanged gate valve

Seal type: Resilient seated gate valve, EPDM+ Ductile Iron

Coating:

Fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated, blue color.

 

Application

Potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance

 

Feature

This Ductile Iron Resilient Seated Gate Valve is fully compliant to DIN3352 F4. We have light weight type, heavy weight type and even middle weight type for your reference, and these three options design construction of ductile iron will offer a robust and durable extended life performance.

 

1-   Bolted bonnet, full bore: used for larger valves and higher pressure applications.

2-   Stem sealed with O-rings: realize zero leakage, could be replace under full pressure.

3-   Rubber encapsulated wedge: excellent elastic memory, ensure sealing effect.

4-   Blue fusion boned epoxy coated inside and outside: suitable for portable water.

5-   Working pressure from -1 to +16 and working temperature from -10 to +80°C

 

Durable

This valve is suitable for use in a wide range of applications including potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance. This Resilient Seated Gate Valves have a rated working pressure of 16 Bar. The valves seal 100% leak tight. The waterway is clear, unobstructed and free from pockets. Resilient seated gate valves are fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated.

 

Advantages

1-   OEM Factory : Professional manufacturer, clients from whole world.

2-   High Quality, Competitive Price: Custom is accepted.

3-   Complete Service: Long service Life, Fast delivery, Multilingual services.

4-   Certificates: ISO9001, CE, NSF, TS, WRAS.

5-   Low MOQ: Ready for providing the sample and producing some small orders.

 

FAQ

Q: Do you produce valves with PN40?

A: Yes, but for PN40, we suggest materials of metal, like cast steel, stainless steel…etc. We could also produce ductile iron valves with PN40.

 

Q: Are you manufacturer or trading company? Which kind of valves do you supply?

A: We are a professional manufacturer of butterfly valves, check valve, non-return valves, gate valves, Y-strainer and so on.

 

Q: Will you do inspection before shipment? Whether Third Party Inspection is available?

A: We have a professional engineer team, so we can offer you the most professional technical support. All valves are tested twice before and after hammer pin to ensure its perfect sealing property and to make sure every valve is ok before ex-factory. TPI is ok but the clients should bear all fees.

 

Q: What kind of package do you use for these valves?

A: Valves from DN80-DN1400 will be packed in wooden boxes, but valves above DN1400 will be in wooden pallets. If you need wooden boxes for above DN1400, the price may be more expensive.

Non-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valves Made of Ductile IronNon-rising Stem Metal Seated Gate Valves Made of Ductile Iron

Q:Hi, I was told by my gardener that I need new sprinkler valves and each of those run about $50-70. I looked up online and I found them for $20 or less. Also what is the basic labor cost for getting them installed? I got estimates that range from $300-1000. I am confused.
If it is $50-$70 installed, that is a good price. Where I work, we get $125, and that is about the going rate in the north east. If you want to do it yourself, do not use Toro valves, Toro is garbage. Hunter, Rainbird, Irritrol, and Weathermatic are all good valves. Dig a nice big hole where the valves are, longer on the downstream side of the sprinklers. Cut the line coming out of the valve, and unscrew it. If it is a tight fit, take the valve apart and unscrew it. If you have to take the new valve apart to put it on, There are only 3 parts inside, so don't worry about not being able to put it back together. From top to bottom, they are the spring, the rubber diaphram and the plastic ring. Then reconnect the lines coming out of the valve. Then connect the wires from the solenoid. 1 wire from each valve gets connected to the common wire. Look in your timer to see what color it is. Then the other wire gets connected to individual wires. Check the order of the wires to the valves. Write it down. This will help keep the valves in the same order they are in now. The prices you got 50-70 is what your gardener told you for each (i am assuming that he is installing them.) The 300-1000 just estimates for installation from different contractors. Unless you have 8 valves or more, the $1000 sound real high. You do not have to be a plumber to install the valves.
Q:i was filling the tire on my car and the valve stem completely came out when i finished, quickly deflating the tire. i could push it back in but then the process repeated itself when i tried refilling it again. is there part of the stem i'm not seeing. the stem that i saw was long and straight and threaded. advise, thoughts? thanks.
Are you talking about the whole valve stem? You need a new one, tire has to be dismounted to install it. Are you talking about the insides, the valve core? There is a tool to thread it in, used to be right on the valve caps that came on bicycles, is available in any auto parts store. Why that would pop out I don't know, unless somebody deliberately loosened it. Or perhaps you have ended up with some of the millions of low-quality counterfeit ones that came out of China a couple of years agol
Q:How do you take out a valve stem?
No. The cap just keeps dirt, debris and moisture out of the valve stem and core. If you remove the valve core (it screws out with a special tool) then yes, your tire will go flat in a big hurry. To remove the complete valve stem as a unit there is a tool that screws on to the end that you can use to rip it out of the wheel. A new stem has to then be inserted from inside the wheel requiring the tire to be dismounted.
Q:How many valves are involved in th etypical 4-stroke cycle? Is it the intake and exhaust valves only? If my car engine has 12 valves, how many cylinders does it have?
nowadays usually it's four valves per cylinder, though still u may find 2 valves per cylinder. u cann't know how many cylinders u have from knowing the number of valves, it depends on the design.
Q:My 91 GMC Van has an Idle Control Valve that is unplugged, but the van still runs great. Will the valve being unplugged, result in harm to my vehicle?
As long as the eng check light isn't on then it will harm nothing. If the light is on but the van runs good it's because the computer is running in a fixed parameters ( emergency mode ) and it's not running at top potential.
Q:Im replacing the valve stem seals and i dont know how to remove the springs and with the valve compressor wont fit in the engine
you will need to remove the plugs, get a air compressor with a hose that will screw into the spark plug hole ! then you pump the compressor up to about 40 or 50 pounds, take the rockers off and pull the push rods ! you will need a spring compressor to squeeze the valve spring and take a pair of need nose pliers and take the keepers out and then the spring will lift off the valve stem ! after the spring is off you can remove the valve seal ! i recommend for you to use the umbrella type seals !
Q:Leak in Heart Valve ?i was told by my doctor to to do a ultra sound on my heart a few weeks ago, wehn i finished the ultra sound the lady that did the scan asked if i had any type of heart disease in my family, and i responded that i dont, she said that i have a leak in my heart valve, but that was all, i dont have an appointment with my doctor til two weeks from now, i THINK i feel shortness of breath, but i feel like this may all be because im scared ...... main thing is has anyone had this or know anything about this is it dangerous, deadly ? should i be scared ?
It depends on what valve is leaking, how much is leaking, and for how long has it been leaking. Wait for the physician to evaluate the echocardiogram. Technicians are often wrong or limited in their evaluation, as they are not trained in in-depth evaluation of echocardiographic studies like a cardiologist. Make an appointment with your doctor to discuss the results. You said you think you have shortness of breath, make sure you mention that when you make your appointment. Only your doctor will be able to determine if it is related to your heart, or due to anxiety, or from something else.
Q:For those of you that have had a heart valve replaced, why did your heart valve go bad?
A good friend of mine ignored his bad cold symptoms and was diagnosed with pneumonia when it already affected his heart valves.
Q:how do i adjust the valve lash my book sys to torque to 136 in lbs but my wrench is only in ft lbs
valve lash is a small gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem as the engine heats up the gap gets tighter due to expansion of valve train parts. To set the lash correctly find the gap that is recommended and use a feeler gauge to set. loosen the jam nut that holds the adjustable screw and set the screw to point where the guage has a slight drag on it. all this is done at the rocker arm and takes practice to get the feel of it. This must be done while the valves ARE CLOSED and the engine rotated to the correct position for that cylinder. Once the gap is set using the feeler guage, hold the adjustable screw still and tighten the jamb nut to the in./lbs. speced. In./lbs are a smaller value than ft/lbs. Find a torque wrench that has the smaller increments. If your not sure, find someone who HAS done this before and get them to assist you. Again, it must be done with the engine rotated to the correct spot. Usually around TDC for that cylinder being adjusted. Once set, test again with the feeler guage and see if the lash changed during the tightening of the jamb nut. If so, set again till lash has a slight drag. This means that you can slide the feeler guage in the gap and its not to loose nor to tight
Q:Anyone know where the pcv valve is located on a 2000 Lincoln Ls V6 3.0
It should look something like a flattened top and should be black and in line with your fuel fline to the injectors.

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