• Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W , System 1
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W , System 2
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W , System 3
  • Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W , System 4
Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,

Manufacturer of HID xenon kits- HID bulbs and HID ballasts,12V 35W ,

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Model: AC12V/35W

Working Voltage Scope: 9-16V DC  9V-32V

Rated Voltage/Current: 12.5V/3.2A -+5A   3.5A

Operating Temperature: -40 ~ 105°C, ≤3000M Altitude

Store Temperature: -40 ~ 150, ≤3000M Altitude

Max. Start Voltage: 23kV

Switch Time : >100000 Times

Working Output: 35W±3W

Working Efficiency: ≥97%

Working Load Output Voltage: 85Vdc±10Vdc

Luminous Flux: 2500-3500LM (3X More Luminous Flux Than Halogen)

Lifespan: Above: 2500h (Up To 5 Times Longer Than Halogen)

Power Consumption: Saves You 57 Over Halogen

H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H11, H13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, 880/881, H4L, H13L, D1S, D2S, D4S etc. Are the types of our bulbs. We just listed one model


Q: valve gasket cover repair done on Friday. check engine came on Saturday. auto zone did a diagnostics came up with fuel injector system. light went off. came back on Sunday. what is going on with my car? I will be taking it back on Monday. can i drive to work until then.
take it back to auto zone and get them to check it . They did the job so get them to fix the problem .If it wasn't happening before you took the car in . They need to scam the computer and trouble shoot the problem .
Q: my engine light came on and I went to auto zone to see why? When they test it it came out to sbe the o2 senser. I had it changed and on my way home the light came back on
Everybody knows here that erudite is not so erudite and just says stuff to piss people off. But no worries if trolling does it that is OK. I suppose it is better than smoking crack or something.
Q: One morning, car wouldn‘t start. Checked battery at AutoZone: OK. Removed starter, cleaned connections (did not test) and reinstalled: car started and continues to start. Only problem is that the battery light is on and the message check charge system displays on the dashboard. Battery light goes off after some 10 - 20 minutes of driving (especially above 2,000 RPM), but continues to come back on when I start the car.I haven‘t had a chance to stop by AutoZone to have a full system diagnostic. Is this still related to the starter? Alternator? Battery? Any tips, greatly appreciated. Thanks!
No big deal, It just means that within the last 100 start cycles that your battery has been didconected, so dont worry about it but still get it checked out at autozone they will do it for free just drive your car up there and tell them to run it on there dianostic machine and that will tell you what you need to know
Q: Led lights is not very common, why the car coat is so expensive
LED is very common, the price of LED is much cheaper than before.
Q: i got it fixed recently but will anything else need to be fixed immediately following?
locate the brain to the alarm and pull the fuse. all systems will go back to normal. at that point you should be able to start and drive again.
Q: I have a 1997 Plymouth Breeze with the 2.0 four cylinder engine. The light came on over the weekend and I took the car straight to Auto Zone for a scan of the OBD2 system. The only code that registered was P1494, I called the chysler dealership and they said it was a leak in the evap system. Most likely cause was a loose or missing gas cap. I checked for this, and even went to the expense of buying a new one. After the new cap was installed, I had the code erased. I reset my trip meter and drove about 90 miles and the light came back on. I‘ve had a mechanic check the lines and hoses running from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister and then to the engine. All were tight and in good shape. I was also told by the dealership that the leak detection pump might be bad. This is a small vacume pump that keeps a constant vacume to the evap system. My Haynes manual shows this pump, but my mechanic says there isn‘t one on my car. I‘m now being told the problem is my O2 sensors??????
it could be your O2 Sensor maybe. The only way to find out is to replace it have the code erased and see if it comes back on. It could also be the actual evap system sensor it self that triggers that check engine light is malfunctioning. See if you can find the leak detection pump your self. If you can try replacing that as well by your self if not show your mechanic this pump. There is no way to find out what the actual problem is until it's fixed you are just going to have to do one thing at a time to figure it out.
Q: How to open the car headlamps
In all the road now running the car, headlamps in two ways: the first is the combination of the steering wheel switch on the left side of the switch to turn the switch is to open the headlights are two stalls, the first is Small lights are the second headlamps, generally mostly used in domestic cars and Japanese cars. The second is in the instrument on the left side of a switch is the headlamp switch, the headlamp switch itself is relatively large, the switch is the way to the right rotation, the first file is a small lamp, the second gear is the headlights. This switch is generally used for European cars and high-end cars. So do not know how much help to bring you.
Q: There are several gears for car headlamps
Off ---- small lights ----- headlamps, far light to pull the rod forward, near the light pull
Q: 2006 G35 Sedan.Service Engine Soon (check engine light) came on. Took it to local auto parts store, ran a free diagnostic. Gave me code P0420 which reads --- Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) No other codes are with it. Just that. Randomly happened as I was driving home from work.So whats the difference between Bank 1 and Bank 2? Since my issue is only bank 1. Passenger side?? Does that help me find out what is causing this code of P0420 that I have??Honestly I haven‘t had any bad issues or symptoms. Gas mileage is still fine, no problems idling, going uphill, flooring it, or anything. Car doesn‘t smoke, any still runs like new. Just with this code on. I did notice that one day, it came on. went to bed and started it in the morning and it was off. But then came on again in a few days. Been on ever since. What does this code tell me? O2 sensors even though it doesn‘t throw a code that says o2 sensor or sensors is bad? The cat? Exhaust leaks? Thanks for the help!
Most of the times, it is a bad catalytic converter. Bank 1 just means it is the ban 1 cat that is bad if you have a dual system. If you only have 1 pipe, it is always called Bank 1
Q: Ok. i have been hearing some things on here like: i will have to get a new alternator, battery and 1/0 awg wire for a system thats amp is pushing out 900w rms at 2 ohms. However, i have went to 2 very reputable local auto shops and they have both said that my current set up will be fine for 900w rms, no doubts. my car is a 96 civic ex, with stock alternator, basic battery, and 4 AWG wiring that i was told was good up to 1000w rms. Keep in mind these are very reputable local shops. So, my question is basicly, whos full of shiit and whos not?
You went to the local auto shops and asked them? Being truthfull they're not going to help much but yeah you should be ok if the car is going if the off and your doing parking lot listening than your car will die in like 10 minutes if you dont do a lot of parking lot listening just upgrade the cable 2 o guage wire

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