Low Price + Polished Porcelain Tile + High Quality 8M03
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 PCS
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 PCS/month
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Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
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Basic Information of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:
1.Size:60x60/80x80cm tile
2.Certificate:CE ISO
3.W.A. <0.5%
4.Material:Porcelain
Features of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:
1. Size:600*600mm;800*800mm Porcelain tile
2.Various colors are available;Fashion and elegant pattern tile
3. Usage: use in Inner Floor.
4. Engobe(water proof)
5. Certificate:CE;ISO;SONCAP
6.Tile Minimum order: 1x20'FCL (items we have in stock can be mix loading)
7.Delivery Time : within 25 days after received 30% payment by TT
8.Payment term: L/C; T/T, 30% deposit, balance paid before loading.
9.Packing: standard carton with wooden pallet or per customers' request
- Q: The bottom row of tiles on my roof are loose.Depending on the weather(wind) I have to move the tiles back every 3 weeks as they are slipping down.How do I fix this without ripping up all the tiles just to nail down this one row?I do not have a gutter.
- Take a length of galvanized wire bend a hook on the end pass under fixed tile above the loose tile And turn to hook up at top Put loose tile back bend wire up at bottom to hold in place. It works with slates so should work with tiles
- Q: I have a bunch of bottle caps and I thought it might be cool to encase them in some type of clear material so I could use them for tiles in my shower. Is it even possible to do that?
- If you have a tile size , sure make the mold just a hair smaller than the tile. Same if your just replacing a few and making the bottle cap tile as a deco tile. Just use a white thin set and completely smooth coat over the back so you see a all white back ground through your deco.. The use of a extra modified thin set is required because this wouldn t be much different than setting glass tiles. GL
- Q: I am going to be removing ceramic tile in my kitchen and was wondering what the easiest way to go about it was? I was going to use a hammer and a flat ended screw driver, what do you think?
- Removing them will be hard and dusty work so be prepared for both. How you remove them depends on the substrate below them. If they are on cement slab, then a large chisel and hammer can be used to take off the tile. Then you must scrape off the thin set used to hold it down If your tiles are on a cement board or added wood substrate , then a crow bar ( or 2) and an extra body is recommended to get under that and pry it up and take it all up at once. The tile will pop and come up as you get the subflooring up. You can rent electric ( small hand held ) hammers w/ a chisel on the end but I ve had better luck and am faster with a hand held 3# hammer.. The dust will be bad either way so block off door ways to prevent dust in the whole house. Dust mask, ear, eye protection is a must. Along with long sleeved shirt and gloves.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. I ve done this to many times over the years so I know. GL
- Q: MyMy bathroom. which is about 75 square feet has a carpet and I want to change it to tile. The only utility is a toilet.How do I handle the toilet? If I use ceramic tile, does the toilet sit on the ceramic tile and does that cause a problem with breaking the tile?What do you recommend that is practical, easy to install, and still functional?
- Yes you ll have to pull the stool up and depending on what you sub flooring is now will depend how you treat the stool and wax ring and flange later. There isn t a stock answer with the info you gave. Some times the flange is raised enough to accommodate raising the floor with tile and a 1/2 cement board( if needed). If the flooring is on a slab them the tile will go right up to the flange and stool set atop with a normal or extra thick ring. In 20+ years I ve never had a tile crack under a stool. As long as there is the correct amount of thin set under the tile and any subflooring you add is properly put down,it ll be fine. Stools don t have to be tight tight bolted down just firmly snugged up . Almost ( almost ) any tile will work in a bathroom situation , but get a slip resistant type, one with at least a class III rating is my recommendation Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q: What is the standard water absorption of tiles?
- According to China's national standards for testing tiles, tiles according to the different water absorption, divided into porcelain brick (water absorption E ≤ 0.5%), fine stoneware tile (water absorption 3% ≤ E ≤ 6%), stoneware brick (water absorption 6 % ≤ E ≤ 10%), ceramic brick (water absorption of 10% or more) and so on. The test method should be tested on the back of the brick body. The moisture absorption of the tiles is related to the breaking strength, abrasion resistance and gloss performance. Generally speaking, the lower the water absorption of tiles, the better the tiles, the higher the product strength, wear resistance and gloss performance is better, the product is not prone to cracking or peeling. And high water absorption of the tiles after the thermal expansion and contraction will lead to tile surface cracks and the overall tile peeling, especially in the choice of toilet paving tiles more attention to this problem. To determine the size of the water absorption also has a simple method, the water absorption rate, also known as seepage rate, the simplest test method is to drop some water on the tile to do the experiment, after a few minutes, wipe the tile surface of the water, if not left any Traces, to prove that the water absorption of tiles is very low. If you leave the water mark tiles discoloration, then the ceramic tile water absorption is higher.
- Q: In order to be able to tile the windows (instead of the white moulding) like in the second kitchen, what steps would I have to take? Just remove the moulding on the inside then tile?
- Yes, carefully remove the moldings before tiling. Using a utility knife, cut the caulking between the molding and the wall first so you can pry them off with a prybar or small putty knife. In the picture, it looks like they also tiled inside the window frame as well. I would consider this carefully, as those windows are probably designed to be removed from the inside and tiling there could prevent you from replacing them in the future.
- Q: Can you lay down those adhesive floor tiles on top of existing tiles? If so, what kind of prep do you need to do to make sure they stick properly. I‘m not sure what type of tiles are in place now, but they are similiar to the types used in schools and other institutions. Very cheap, flexible, and bland. I want to lay something down in place of them, but don‘t want to rip them up. Is that possible? Thanks!
- That partially depends on how heavy the tiles are and the reinforcement of your wall. I remember when asking about putting tiling in my kitchen that for large areas of wall tile you need a special drywall or wall reinforcement. You may also need a special adhesive to add in addition to the self adhesive since the floor tiles will be put up in a manner that they are not truly designed for.
- Q: Is there any one who have knowledge about Ceremic tiles? plz suggest me.
- Ceramic tile makes up for designs limited only by your imagination with the very wide variety of colors, sizes, textures, and patterns that it comes in. Extraordinarily, it comes in various sets of attributes that make it ideal to use as roofing, wall tile, backsplash and countertop or decorative tilework material. Other than the versatility in both fashion and function that it offers, ceramic tile is also: fire, frost and water proof resistant to stains and abrasions durable hygienic economical
- Q: This is a new house and they put 16 inch tiles in the bathrooms, which I don't care for. The floors are fine as far as leveling goes, but I would like to put 12 inch tiles directly over the 16 inch ones. Would there be any problems?
- I don't think I would, if it is a shiny glazed tile in place now, There wont be a bond between the old and new tiles. If the current tile is a rough slate tile, maybe. Check the recommendations of the manufacturer of the tile you want to install. Another option is to install 1/4 inch concrete backerboard over the existing tile, but it should be screwed down and that's a real chore in your situation. Maybe the manufacturer knows of a type of mortar that will work on those smooth existing tiles (assuming they are smooth). I recommend you to hire a professional if you can hire. I recommend a company ciciliot who are very professional in this regard.
- Q: Wondered what people‘s experiences were of the above in kitchens. The kitchen leads out into the back garden so the floor will be walked on an awful lot. Would flooring last or look as good after a year or would tiles be the way to go. Any info would be great before I make a purchase.Thanks
- Tile would be your best choice since it's almost indestructible, especially because of the garden entrance and the traffic pattern. Although wood floors are gorgeous, they won't stand up to spills, scratching, and traffic like tile does, particularly in the kitchen. If you do opt for tile though, use porcelain or natural stone rather than ceramic since ceramic can pit and chip. If you choose natural stone, make sure that it's sealed since it's porous and may stain or become watermarked.
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Low Price + Polished Porcelain Tile + High Quality 8M03
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 PCS
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 PCS/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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