• Hydraulic plate valve with high quality and best price from okorder.com System 1
  • Hydraulic plate valve with high quality and best price from okorder.com System 2
Hydraulic plate valve with high quality and best price from okorder.com

Hydraulic plate valve with high quality and best price from okorder.com

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
25 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Place of Origin:

China (Mainland)

Model Number:

Hydraulic plate valve

Brand Name:

OKORDER

Type:

Rotary Drilling Rig

Certification:

API

Usage:

Oil Well

Condition:

New

Warranty:

1

Voltage:

2,000-15000 psi

Specifications

Hydraulic plate valve
SS Gate Valve Handwheel Operated
1.Medium: water, oil, gas.
2.Certificate:API 6D,TS,CE.

                   Hydraulic plate valve                                 

                      

Applicable standards:Steel gate valves, API 600 / API 6D
Steel gate valves, ISO 10434 / ISO 14313
Steel valves, ASME B16.34
Face to face, ASME B16.10
Flanges end, ASME B16.5
Buttwelding ends, ASME B16.25
Inspection and test, API 598 / API 6D

 

Design description:
Full port design

OS&y,outside screw and yoke
BB,Bolted bonnet
Flexible wedge,fully guided
Choice of solid or split wedge 

 

Renewable seat rings

 

Forged T-head Stem

 

Rising stem and non-rising handwheel 

 

Flanged or buttwelding ends 

 

Available with BG operator

 

Gate Valve Product Details

 

Design and Manufacture

ANSI B16.34,API600,API603,BS1414

Face to face(end to end)

ANSI B16.10,API6D

Flanged connection

2"~24" TO ANSIB16.5,22",26"~36" TO MSS-SP-44 to API 605 on Request

Test and inspection

API 598,API6D

Butt welded end

ANSI B16.5

 

A. Anti-friction ball thrust bearing: Reduces friction between mating parts to ensure smooth operation
B. Grub screw: Secures yoke nut in the bonnet
C. Grease nipple: Supplies lubricant to the mating parts

 

Q:Among butterfly,ball,needle and gate valves which is used mostly in pneumatic system?
I don't agree that gate valves operate quickly and that they usually don't leak. Gate valves are slow to operate specially in large sizes and they all tend to leak unless they have a soft seat and there are very few of these type of gate valves. In larger piping systems globe valves are used to throttle air but not usually as a on/off valve. Probably the best on/off valve is the soft seated ball valve. They work well regardless of size with very little if any leakage. You can get some butterfly valves with soft seats that are really designed to operate much like a ball valve but are only economic in large sizes. The disc in these valves is essentially a wafer out of the sphere and that is why they do so well.
Q:i was filling the tire on my car and the valve stem completely came out when i finished, quickly deflating the tire. i could push it back in but then the process repeated itself when i tried refilling it again. is there part of the stem i'm not seeing. the stem that i saw was long and straight and threaded. advise, thoughts? thanks.
Tubeless Tire Valve
Q:I just got a new set of tired 2 months ago. The last 3 weeks I've had a separate tire go flat (3 in total). The last 3 the repair company said they were caused by cracked valve stems. So after the 3rd time it happened they replaced all valve stems on each tire. Now today I just got a 4th flat. That's 1 each week for the past 4 weeks. I'm taking into the shop this afternoon for them to inspect the tire. I suspect they will say it's again the valve stem. Any help on what I can do or what to say or ask to get them to fix the problem instead of just putting another bandaid on it? I'm very concerned about my safety and it really sucks that everytime i get into my car, I have to wonder, am i going to get a flat tire today...
if you are running hub caps then maybe they are cutting into the valve stems. try running without hub caps and see if they crack.
Q:My valve cover gasket has less them 2k miles on it and i noticed in some areas there is a lil oil shine around it so i was thinkin maybe i have to retighten the valve cover a lil bit more?
Valve cover gaskets aren't really affected by miles. They either don't leak or they do. I'd just snug it up a bit. If it still leaks you can put some sealant on the gasket, but only if you can lift it off without wrecking it since you'd have to seal it on both sides. Don't tighten it too much or you will make the leaks worse.
Q:And' the valve leaks......Can the valve be unscrewed from the tank for replacement? Or can the valve be serviced with a new gasket perhaps?
Go to the following site and enter the Model of your water heater in the box provided Click on the Magnifying glass. This should give you a list of all the parts for your water heater.
Q:Beneath my kitchen sink are two shut off valves for the water; one for hot, one for cold. The hot water valve has never successfully stopped all water flow, so we've always resorted to shutting off the main line. Well, now that's not working. We shut off the main water line to the house, all water everywhere is non-functioning except for the hot water pipe beneath my sink. It's now causing the faucet to constantly stream water, so it's something we have to resolve ASAP. I'd like to avoid calling a plumber, but my knowledge in such areas is very limited. Can anyone give me any decent suggestions? For the record, I did take apart the faucet fixture just in case, thoroughly cleaned it, and replaced all of the washers I had access to; but we only just bought the faucet in September, so I can't see a worn washer as being the problem. I also tried to tighten the nut behind the handle on the valve. It didn't effect the dripping.
Leaking Kitchen Sink
Q:The water shut off valve that is under my sink in the bathroom is leaking and I need to replace it. I am wondering if I need soder the new one or can I just put some thread tape around it.
More ofter than not the innards of a valve will deteriorate and start to leak, when that happens its best to replace the valve. Since you ask about soldering the shut off valve, I'm going to assume that you have a copper line coming out of the wall. Older valves required soldering, nowadays there is a compression fitting that eliminates the need for soldering. Once you have the correct size of the pipe turn off the main water supply. Remove the old valve (may need to take a hacksaw or tubing cutter, if its soldered on). Then slip the new nut and compression ring over the pipe. Next bring the valve up to the pipe and tighten the nut to the valve. Once the valve is secured on attach your lines, preferably new replaced lines. Open the valve line, and then turn on the main water line and check for leaks.
Q:My third valve is always sticking, despite the fact that I oil them thoroughly every other day. It scrapes the sides of the case when I take it out/put it in, it's almost as if the valve is too big for it. Often times it will stick and I'll have to unscrew it and physically pull it out for it to be functional again.I've inspected it, and the inside looks just like the others which are fine. I've tried washing it, oiling it, and putting a trace amount of vaseline on it. What is the problem?
Have you tried cleaning the valve casing (what the valve moves in)? If not, you can use a clean cloth that won't leave fibers in there, or a valve casing brush (couple dollars at the music store) to clean the inside. Many times dirt builds up at the bottom of the valve casing where it's supposed to and the valve eventually gets stuck in it. Also, like the poster above said, the plastic/metal guide could be getting caught. You can use slide grease to lubricate the slot in the top part of the valve (not the casing) where the guide moves. Just don't get any on the piston part of the valve. If all else fails, it is possible that the valve was not honed correctly at the factory and a professional will need to fix it.
Q:ok im buying an aftermarket blow off valve for my car. the car itself is taken apart completely and i have no idea wht vacuum lines go where. i know tht the top nipple of the bov has to be connected to the throttle body but it has 5 lines. does it matter what line is connected to it?
Don't do it. First of all, if you knew enough about turbo charging or supercharging, blow off valves, bypass values, hooters, etc., then you would have known we need to know the size of engine, model of turbo, piping diameter, etc. The actual control lines are not that complex. By using your tongue you can tell what each line is ported to, and then you just need to know if you blow off valve is operated by vacuum or lack of vacuum. They make both types. And your throttle body will have ports on both sides of the plate. And yes, it does very much matter. Turbo charging is not for the novice to fool around with.
Q:Is it possible for car manufacturers to make 32 / 64 / 128 / 512 Valve Car Engine just like in a PC CPU? The highest valve I saw so far is 16-valve engine. Just asking :-)
There's no point. 4 or 5 valves per cylinder are enough for almost every automotive application. Or are you getting valves and cylinders mixed up? Even in that case, there's no point. Eventually the complexity and weight cancel out any benefits you'd get from the added power it could create. Also, you would eventually have too much torque for the crank to take without being ridiculously thick and heavy, further increasing the weight of the engine, or serving as a limiting factor for maximum engine size. Waitasec...you ARE getting them mixed up. There are plenty of 24 and 32 valve engines out there (3 and 4 valve per cylinder V8s) . Valves are parts on the top of the cylinder that let IN air (and in some cars, fuel), and let OUT exhaust gases. The more valves per cylinder, the more freely these gases can flow...but past a certain number, additional valves are pointless. The most CYLINDERS in an automotive engine in current production is the Bugatti Veyron's 16 CYLINDER engine, which has 4 VALVES for each CYLINDER, for a total of 64 VALVES.

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