Halogen-Free Cables With Improved Performance In The Case Of Fire

Halogen-Free Cables With Improved Performance In The Case Of Fire

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 500 m

Supply Capability:: 50000 m/month

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Specifications

Type of halogen free cables:
Installation cables
Power cables
Shipboard cables
Telecommunication cables

Halogen free cables
•   Installation cables (H05Z, H07Z, H07ZZ-F, NHMH)
•   Power cables (NHXHX, NHXCHX, NHXHX Fe 180, NHXCHX Fe180/E90, LiHXHX, LiHXCHX, LiHXHX Fe180, LiHXCHX Fe180, N2XH, N2XSH, N2XSEH,
•   Shipboard cables (FMGCH, MGCH, MGH, NFK FMGCH, NFK MGCH, NFK MGH)
•   Telecommunication cables (J-02YSH, J-2Y(St)H, THI, THM, THN, THNE, THNE FE 20, THNe Fe180, ILAN 120 W H, TC 88 K (EK), TZ 88 e (Ge))
•   Cables for electronics (LiHCH, LiHH)

Basic requirements
Our halogen free power cables are notable for their improved performance in the case of fire, in addition to the requirements generally applying to power cables:
•   Low smoke density (firefighting and rescue operations made easier)
•   Reduced flame propagation (limited fire damage)
•   No corrosive combustion gases, owing to use of halogen-free materials (no danger to persons and no subsequent damages in the case of fire)

These three basic requirements are met by all Halogen free cables and verified by the following tests:
- Smoke density:
DIN VDE 0472 Part 816; IEC 1034
- Flame propagation:
DIN VDE 0472 Part 804, Test method C; IEC 332-3 Category A, B or C (Test on bunched wires or cables under fire conditions)
- Corrosivity:
DIN VDE 0472 Part 813; IEC 754-2
Additional fire tests:
- Circuit integrity of cable only:
DIN VDE 0472 Part 814; IEC 331
The stress duration for cables designated FE180 is 180 minutes.
- Circuit integrity of cable installation:
DIN 4102 Part 12;
This test according to building legislation differs essentially from the tests according to VDE. No longer is the cable examined alone (test on circuit integrity of cable only), a complete installation (cable installation) undergoes testing. Apart from the cable, the cable installation includes support devices, connecting elements and mountings. A detailed test certificate is issued for the test performed. Circuit integrity of cable installation is classified as E30 (30 min.) and E90 (90 min.) respectively, depending on the stress duration.

Halogen-Free Cables With Improved Performance In The Case Of Fire

Q: I have 4 consecutive 110v outlets that are only receiving 82v and the receptacles are not working. I tested them with a multimeter. I tested from both the receptacle and the wiring to the receptacle. What do i need to do to resolve this. The breaker isnt tripped, and the fuses are good. I have checked switches- to see if maybe one needs to remain on for the string of outlets to work, but there doesnt seem to be one tied into them. it is 4 outlets on one side of the living room. no gfi to reset. the house was built in the mid -90's. as far as i know-- there has been no hack job engineering done before i moved in. i bought the place from original owner, and they said its original wiring. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated: Great answer from 'mermeliz'. Please reward it with 10 points. I agree with the probable culprit. Here is a method to find the problem. Not 100% guaranteed, but works almost all of the time. If it doesn't, you will be stuck opening each receptacle on the circuit until you find the problem. Turn on all of your non-working lights and plug lamps into any non-working receptacles. Make sure that any computers, or other sensitive electronics are not plugged into this circuit. Take a lamp or an extension cord around to the all of the receptacles on this circuit. DON'T rule out the working receptacles either. Try them too. Plug it in and wiggle the plug (hard enough to wiggle the receptacle too). You will probably find one where doing this suddenly causes your non-working lights/receptacles to come back to life. This will be your culprit. As 'mermeliz' correctly stated, a lot of homes are wired with receptacles using 'stab-in-the-back' connections. These are actually still in use and are deemed safe for installation. The problem is that they have a terrible failure rate. The term 'stab-in-the-back' also applies to what they do to you later. Any replacement should have screw terminal connections.

Q: Hi, My house has a wire for a light sticking out of the wall on the outside of the house. Problem is that there is no electrical box, so I have nothing to mount my light too. The outside is wood. Does anyone have any suggestions, that will work, and is safe? Thanks for your timepb4sc: Hopefully this is nonmetallic sheathed cable(Romex). If so, you can mount an outlet box on the wall, or cut out sufficient space to flush one in. If the conductors are just wires, you have a different problem, unless there is cable up to the point of penetration of the wall.

Q: Air conditioning to use 4.0 square wire. What exactly does this 4.0 square wire show? Do not use words, do not understand with Mandarin.: Money, then change the motherboard ASUS p67 on the 900 or so fast

Q: i.e can i use a speaker wire when the electric wire in the light is broken???is it compatible?: I honestly dont think it would work

Q: I was measuring the electrical conductivity of certain wires at school in a lab in Amperes with an Avometer set on ''B'' and the results got:nichrome 0.2mm 1 Anichrome 0.4mm 0.8 ACopper 0.2mm 0.7 AIron 0.5mm 0.23 AAre those results right? And if so does that mean that the Iron wire has the best conductivity among those those indicated?: Conductivity is invese to resistivity. So a high resistance means a low conductivity. High resistance means less current can flow. A low resistance means a high conductivity. Low resistance means more current can flow. Something is wrong with your experiment setup because you don't state the length of the wires. The longer the wire, the greater its resistance. Copper has the lowest resistance of the three types of metals you list. Therefore it should have the highest conductivity and the highest current flow. Yet it has lower current flow than nichrome wire of the same diameter. So I have to assume the 0.2 mm copper wire was considerably longer than the 0.2 mm nichrome wire. Please check this out and ask the question again when you find out the lengths of the various wires you tested. The other thing I would want to know is what kind of power supply you were using. Was it a constant voltage supply ? What other devices were in the test setup ? Do you have a circuit schematic ? You can post an image on image-sharing websites and put the link in your question.

Q: I am putting all my lighting on a single circuit, and have a question. The main feed from the panel to the lights first goes to a double gang switch, one switch controls the lights on half of the main room in the basement, the other controls the lights in the other half of the main room in the basement. Then I need the main feed to continue to three other switches in three other rooms in the basement. Do I just wire nut the black wired and wire nut the white wires, and continue running to the next switch. So if that is the case, then am I correct in saying that in the double gang switch I will have one wire nut with the ground wires, one wire nut with 4 black wires, and one wire nut with 4 white wires? Please help with this matter, I want to do this correct, so my house doesn't burn down.By the way I am using 14/2 wire.: Yes you are basically correct. You must make sure you attach to the blacks before the existing switch so the existing switch doesn't turn off your new extended cicuit. All the whites (nuetral) and all the grounds (bare) go together. If you are useing #14 wire, you must be on a 15 amp cicuit. A 20 amp cicuit needs #12 wire. If you are in USA, of course you have the legal right to do wiring on your own home.

Q: How to determine whether the square of the cable is standard: 1: material a S-terminal line; a AV line (the two lines to sell more) 2: first two lines cut, each take half, peeled 3: the S-terminal that head against their own, Round the middle of the plastic feet up .4: the amount of the interface inside the four iron feet corresponding to the four lines .5: the shield line and the four iron feet above the two received AV shielded line (Ground). Note that the above two side by side .6: the other two lines (the four iron feet below the two lines) to the AV core line .7: re-adhesive tape can be The line of my own through the test, you can use the normal. You do not have the image to determine the line in the case of the need to set up the graphics card, and in the image and the image is not clear or interference, you can first To find the line of the problem, and then slowly explore their own, depending on the actual situation to see specific.

Q: When assembling electrical wiring, what is the small circle on the wire?: KVV22-450 / 750V armored control cable 2 is two 4 * 25 is a cable containing four 25mm2 wires

Q: Hi There, So I have six pot lights in my living room that are all controlled by one dimmer switch. I was wondering it is was possible to rewire them in such a way that you could control each light separately with 6 individual switches? thanks: It's possible, right now they are all in wired in series with one switch. You can wire them and with each one a switch all in parrallel.

Q: For example if I put a screw in the wall and it goes through an electrical wire will that screw cause electrical leaks. Another example is everytyhing in house was unplugged and shut off and power meter was still running, what could be the cause?: Certain items draw what is known as quiescent current. Even though they are powered down, a Small amount of current flows through the device. Classic examples; ink jet printer, computer speakers, monitors.

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