Q:my gf got into an accident last night. she said everything went well then when she went to turn she couldnt completly and ran into an embankment. also last week it was raining hard and she said the same thing happen except that she almost hit the sidewall. she said all this time for a while her low trac light has been on but never said anything. she said it felt like a glitchwhen steering the first time. what problems would set off that light that would cause a prob? she has a 95 camero auto v6

Not sure that a low trac light would do it - as most of the GM traction controls of that era have to do with limiting engine power during low traction conditions. However, some of the newer controls would pulse various brake pads using the ABS system, which in a turning condition, depending on how hard the pulses were, could make the car turn sharper, or make it much more difficult to turn. I wouldn't put it out of the question, but seems a bit far fetched.

Q:I went to Auto Zone and got codes. Yikes I have 5 different ones. Guy said all but the first could be linked to transmission. So here‘s the codes: PO171system to lean, bank ox; PO743torque converter, circuit electrical; PO1401Manf. control auxiliary, emissions controls; PO1507Manf. control veh. speed, Idle speed control, auxiliary inputs; PO1744Manf. Control, transmission. I had the transmission replaced with used one last year. It seems OK, but after I drive it a while the OD light starts flashing. But the real rough idle when car is stopped is really bothering me. It is worse when it is in drive, but still bad when in nuetral or park, so it may be related to transmission. It reminds me of the way a stock car idles, but my car is far from being race car. PLEASE help! Also, if you know where I can get suggested parts at a good price please let me know.

I have to agree with the certified mechanic who also answered you - partially. The AutoZone down the street from my apartment has employees who have worked as mechanics and are/were certified. But I estimate that 95 out of 100 auto parts stores (regardless of the chain or franchise) don't have knowledgeable employees. So, yes, take your car to a reputable shop (or the dealer - if you don't mind paying a hefty price) and have them look it over. Get it fixed, then, if you still want to save a buck on diagnosis, ask around to find out if any of the employees of any of the parts stores around you have ASE or similar certification. Don't take the word of anyone who hasn't spent half their life studying cars and actually working on them. Listen to the certified mechanic. There are too many variables to give an online answer to your problem. Take the car to a shop and fork over between $40 and $100 for them to do a computer diagnosis on it (estimated price range in the lower 48 here, in the USA). That estimate is based upon most places either charging a minimum of ? hour or 1 hour labor just to hook up the computer and read the codes and try to come up with a diagnosis. Further troubleshooting will probably be necessary - most likely at an hourly rate. Then there will be the actual repairs.

Q:Over the weekend our 1997 Honda Civic sedan developed an interesting problem. After starting the car and pushing on the brake I cannot shift the auto transmission out of Park. So I first have to manually unlock it, shift to Neutral and then start the car. Also the horn is now not working. I checked the horn fuse which was blown and replaced it but upon trying to test the horn the fuse blew again. Any ideas on what the problem could be?

The problem with the car not shifting out of Park is caused by your blown fuse for the Horn. Here's the logic the car will not shift out of Park unless you have your foot on the brake pedal. the only way the shift interlock system knows you have your foot on the brake pedal is that when you put your foot on the brake pedal the brake lights in the back of the car come on. so if the brake lights are ON then the shift interlock system lets you take the car out of Park. the taillights share the same fuse as the horn. so when the fuse for the horn blows the brake lights don't work. you have to systematically eliminate the components in the circuit to see what's causing the problem. I would do it this way 1) replace the fuse (better have about 5 fuses to do this). then step on the brake and shift the car out of Park. if it works then you can eliminate everything in the brake lights portion of the system because the fuse did not blow. 2) try the horn. again, I know you said it blew when you tested the horn so your problem should be with the horn side but do it just to confirm. if the fuse blows again then you know its the horn circuit that is the problem 3) replace the fuse, then unplug the horn connector. then try the horn again. if the fuse doesn't blow you have a shorted horn. my guess is this is your problem. 3) if the fuse blows then the problem is with the horn relay. you can substitute any like relay in the underhood fuse and relay box for the horn relay and test it. if the horn works and the fuse doesn't blow your problem is a shorted relay. 4) if you find the horn is shorted then you can just remove the connector and drive without the horn until you can get it fixed or, if you can't get to the horn connector (its usually not very easy) then pull the horn relay and at least you'll have brake lights and the shift interlock until you can get the horn replaced I think you'll find its the horn itself. Hope that helps

Q:Antelope car headlamp how to tune

Their own tune, then the best tune in the evening, but do not increase in the road, do not say danger, not easy to see the results, try to choose in the district or yard inside.

Q:2001 audi a4. Along with the traction light (exclamation point ) breaks seem to be working fine though. But when i do turn on a curve going right, i hear a noise in the front left wheel but its not flat or anything. Anyway, It was on when i drove to school, then when i got out of class, (like 3 hours later) it was off the whole ride home. School is about 20 minutes away. So if i take it to auto zone will they help me out? And is it safe to drive?

You'd better use the new wifi diagnostic tool - VDM UCANDAS WIFI Full System Automotive Diagnostic Tool to diagnose if you are sure that you can solve it by yourself, or you can also consult a professional mechanic. Easy and Qucik. Applicable to all types of car. You must always monitor your car's current state. The below website may be helpful for you to find the tool. hope it is helpful to you.

Q:I just got a 2000 Silverad0 4X4, 4.8 auto. The abs light comes on when I start to drive so I think it is a wheel speed sensor but how do I know for sure? What is the procedure for pulling the abs codes? Also I noticed the BRAKE light comes on eventually after driving a while but seems intermittent. Could that be related to the ABS problem? There is no leak in the system. I hate to have to take this in to the dealer if there is a simple way to pull abs codes. Thanks.

no simple way to pull it, however your in luck, it makes no since to buy a scanner yourself, what you need to do is take it to an independent shop that does brakes, shocks etc. since it is a 2000 model the tools used to repair them are very easy to come by and most independent shops can check it and fix it for a third of a dealer.

Q:I have a 96 Dodge Caravan with the 3.0 v6 engine while the vehicle is being driven or is idling the engine light will come on and stay on upon resetting the system the light goes out and stays out but comes on the next time it is driven what is this?

you,ll have to get the computer scanned on it to find out what the code is that's making the cel light come on, there's no way i can guess at it and tel yo for sure whats causing that too happen,most common cause is a bad 02 sensor on them that causes that to happen or a bad,crank sensor on it,if you have it scanned you,ll get code from the computer that will explain why this is happening to it,then you,ll know for sure,auto zone will do it for free,good luck with it.

Q:The goal here is just having cars see us, not headlights etc. battery operated Christmas lights might work, but i am afraid because of the cold weather, the AA batteries would run out quickly, and may not be bright enough so cars can really see us. I just would like to prevent an accident while on the town streets. Thanks in advance for your help. Any kind of lighting or battery system could work here.

Looks like a Kawasaki LTD 440. Or maybe a Honda Nighthawk 750. Bad Picture.

Q:how would we be able to change our transportation system? could we possibly go to a model like walt disney?

That's strictly a toy, I'm afraid, however attractive. Auto-steering cars will come eventually but for safety reasons, not so much for economy or congestion ones. 100 dead a day on American roads. A twin towers casualty list each and every month. But for transportation improvement, the attack will have to come on several fronts: More people working from home: internet/ VR More people working closer to where they live / living closer to where they work. Residential areas patchworked with business and industrial ones. Cleaner and more efficient transport: rapid transit light rail systems as well as cars getting 50+ miles to the gallon. (I've got one in mind, when my old car packs up. over 50 mpg out of town, 40 in town, and it's not a diesel or a hybrid.)

Q:Do I need to get it fixed, Is there something wrong? What kind of price am I looking at? Im under warranty

The weights are installed at the side of the rim opposite to high weight spots to offset disbalance. There are two types of balancing: static and dynamic but only dynamic produces real results, and it requires special equipment tire shops have.