• Car Accessories Head Lamp for Toyota Camry 2007-2011    (ISO9001&TS16949 System 1
  • Car Accessories Head Lamp for Toyota Camry 2007-2011    (ISO9001&TS16949 System 2
  • Car Accessories Head Lamp for Toyota Camry 2007-2011    (ISO9001&TS16949 System 3
Car Accessories Head Lamp for Toyota Camry 2007-2011    (ISO9001&TS16949

Car Accessories Head Lamp for Toyota Camry 2007-2011 (ISO9001&TS16949

Ref Price:
$70.00 / pc get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
20 PCS pc
Supply Capability:
1000 PCS/MONTH pc/month

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PART NAME : HEAD LAMP

CAR MODEL:  CAMRY

PACKAGE: NEUTRAL OR COLOR BOX

 

1Specifications of Head Lamp For CAMRY:

 

Production NameHEAD LAMP FOR CAMRY
StyleTOYOTA metalbody parts 
colorblack, crystal
MarketAfrica, South, America, Mideast, Europe, etc
CertificationTS16949/ISO9001/CCC,ISO9001:2000 ,CCC,E-Mark
materialPP/PC
OemR 81110-33270-1
L 81150-33270-1

 

2Applications of Head Lamp For CAMRY:

TOYOTA

3 Advantage of Head Lamp For CAMRY:

 

 1.Small  MOQ: It can help your marking business very well.

 

2.Continuous development of new products   .

 

3.Good Service : We treat clients as friends.

 

4.Good Quality :We have strict quality control system & good reputation in the market.

 

5.Fast & Cheap Delivery: We have great discount from forwarder (Long-term contract ).

 

4Packaging & Delivery of Head Lamp For CAMRY:

 

Packaging Detail: strong cartons and wooden cases, can pack according to customer's requirements.

 

Delivery Detail: in 20 days

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: it does the same in 4 wheel auto. when I hit the button to go back to 2 wheel I can hear something clicking & the 2 wheel lights up as should
try slowing down and even putting it in nuetral.. sometimes it is operator error
Q: My air bag light has been on in my BMW for a couple years now. It‘s really bothering me. The air bags have never been blown. The rear drivers side door was hit and I had a used door put on to replace it. The original rear door did not have air bags, the replacement door has a spot for an air bag, but no air bag in it. Do you think this caused a false air bag light because there isn‘t an airbag in the door?
Sometimes women with really big knockers sit too close to the wheel and trigger airbag lights. [I totally just made that up.but it's pretty funny] No.if there was no sensor there before (i.e. no air bag) it's not going to trigger the light with it missing. It's probably just a bunk sensor and/or boobs.
Q: Hiya,I don‘t know if anyone knows any fancy effects that can be had with a sheet of polarizer gel, placing them in front of flashes to polarize the emitted light? I‘m used to using lens polarisers - but not on the lights - or combining them for that matter.So basically . is it practised? If so what is it useful for?
Its used in finding stresses in perspex models of bridges etc. or even by stretching a transparent plastic bag, the effect is quite startling. The technique is to put the polarising gel in front of a continuous light source so the plane of polarisation is say strait up and down, then put a linear polarised filter on your camera with the polarising left to right, if you stretch a transparent plastic bag which is under the polarised light and viewed through you cameras filter you get an interference pattern of all the colours of the rainbow where the stresses are. I don't think the effect is as pronounced with a circular polariser. You can use a linear polariser on most DSLR's by ignoring the metering and auto focus and using manual, Pentax cameras are OK they don't use Polarised light in either their metering or auto focus systems. Constructional engineers use the technique by making perspex scale models of bridges etc, then they can actually see where the stresses in the construction are under various loads, they can see at a glance which part of the structure is carrying the load and how it alters when the load is moved. The effect will also work with flash of course, its just easier to use a continuous light source, even an anglepoise type desk lamp will work, you just need to watch the heat on the polarising gel and have an air space between the lamp and the gel. The gel only works when flat if it is curved it scatters the light and the polarising effect is diminished or even lost altogether. Chris
Q: Would it be a fuse and if it is does it mess the airbag up if u pull the fuse?
best thing to do is i would take it up to an autozone they will hook up the computer to find out why the light is on and they do it for free. Other places i know will charge $50 and up. After you find out why your airbag light is on go from there. If its just a simple fuse problem that is something you could take care of. but if they need to re-set something in the computer they might be able to do that but if that atleast you know what needs to be done and take it to a shop to have it done. With you knowing why the light is on and what they need to fix it that should avoid having to have the shop hook it up to their diagnostic computer and charge you for that.
Q: When the fan is set to on position the furnace runs fine. When in auto the burners light and heat up, you here a click when the fan should start but nothin. the burners shut.
Your wife is VERY confused. How exactly does she believe that vaccines cause Down syndrome? DS is caused by a defective ovum, and is present from the moment of conception. I would urge her to educate herself further about what vaccines are and their risks and benefits. But no, you can't just buy vials of dead pertussis germs . it doesn't work that way.
Q: I have a 1995 BMW 318i. When I turn on my car the Battery Light turns on, then dims away when driven, why is that? do I need a new battery or alternator?
It appears that your alternator is failing. Go to the nearest auto parts store and ask them to perform a charging system test and a battery load test. The results of these tests will determine what is needed. Could be a bad alternator, battery, or both.
Q: P0700 P0871 P1776 what are they and do they relate to the same problem? The car runs good except once in a while when i slow down and then speed up it down shifts and stays that way until I stop and turn off the motor and restart then it is fine again . Can you inform me more about this ? Thanks
they are all transmission codes, they have to do with the TCC. The TCC is when the torque converter gos into lock up for overdrive. The codes are not a good thing to have, you will need to take in to a transmission shop, or the a dealer. Its not a cheep thing to fix, But 1st check transmission fluid level. Good luck.
Q: What is the difference between the Canon powershot g10 and a system camera like Nikon D60. Which is the best?
The G10 might very well be my next purchase. In the link I posted below, from Luminous Landscape, Michael Reichmann, compares pictures taken with a G10 favorably to a a $40,000 Hasselblad H2 with a 39-megapixel Phase One P45+ sensor. There are pictures to compare from both. (and I agree with Edwin, I get really, really sick of people that copy and paste the same response over and over! I've seen that same answer at least 8 times now! No help at all!)
Q: Ok heres the problem, I was driving for an hour and a half in the snow and everything seemed fine, except my car has a tendancy to slide to the right a lot. Mind you, my car got into a car accident over a year ago which caused my passenger side to be smashed and I havent yet have the money to get it replaced, BUT Everything seemed to be fine as of yet. Except for a month ago, it seems in the winter everything seems to make everything go wrong. My ABS light came on and it wasnt working very well, and it came off and than came on. My low-coolant light came on too; I checked my antifreeze and I fillled it 3 Times within a month and ahalf time. It semed low; I checked my oil and everything seemed fine too. So What could this possibly be? I know I need to get it checked out; but any ideas on what it could be?
There are a pair places that coolant leaks and it rather is stressful to be certain. The passenger fringe of the motor has a tensioner assembly for the serpentine belt which has 2 plastic elbows that the coolant runs by using. those plastic elbows visit pot from the DEX Cool and leak down the fringe of the block. you will see it if the device is rigidity examined or if the coolant point is crowned up and the motor runs long adequate to pressurize the device. it rather is a pair of two.5 hour interest, no longer too stressful to do and the plastic elbows are a whopping $3.sixty 9 at any vehicle save. the different undemanding subject with coolant leaks is the decrease intake gasket. it is going to leak on the drivers fringe of the motor the place the intake manifold meets the block. you will see the oil and/or coolant leaking down the block utilising an outstanding flashlight after remocing the motor plastic cover.
Q: My dad and I are replacing the engine in a golf cart with a bigger one from a snowmobile. The mechanics of the whole operation are taken care of, but we are not sure about the electrical system. the old engine used a starter generator to start and generate power for the lights and such, but the snowmobile engine has a standard starter motor and an alternator built in. We have no idea what kind of system it used for charging the battery. We have the regulator from the old engine and are wondering if we can use this. It is an old mechanical style one with three connections. D+, D-, and DF. Can we use a full wave bridge rectifier to convert the AC from the alternator into DC and then smooth it out with a capacitor and run that power into the old regulator? I‘m not sure how to connect the regulator as we accidentally removed it before taking note of how it was connected. Basically I want it to be able to run the carts lights and recharge the battery after starting.
These labels mean Dynamo +, Dynamo - and Dynamo field. The plus and minus are the auxiliary output just for the regulator if there is a B+ on the alternator. The field is fed from the regulator, and this is the smaller wire or connection usually. The link below shows the connections. The ignition/charge warning light is necessary to get the alternator started. The wire from B+ to the battery handles the full output current of the alternator. The regulator connections are all 10A automotive wire. The minus side of the battery is grounded at the engine body and this carries the full starter motor current. It is possible there is another ground connection for the lights etc. This goes to the battery negative. There must be a connection between the battery and the alternator frame that can carry the full alternator output. This may be the engine body through the starter motor ground. Some alternators have the regulator built in to the brush holders. The old mechanical regulator will only work if both are thesame voltage, like 12V. If in doubt you can always get an auto electrician to do it. Do the wiring as you think and get them to fix it, so the labour is less.

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