Q:Tiles are divided into several categories, respectively, which are?

According to the process points, can be divided into quintana brick, polished tiles, tiles, ceramic tiles, antique tiles, glazed tiles, in which tiles and polished tiles are all bricks. Polished tiles are divided into seepage tiles, powder, polycrystalline powder; polished tiles and Asian throw; According to the use of points, can be divided into inside and outside the wall tiles, indoor and outdoor tiles, square brick, supermarket bricks, pool tiles, etc. There are many kinds of tiles, the key is to see from which angle to points.

Q:I have recently glued mosaic (mirrior finish) tiles onto a wall of mine, however I have noticed a few tiles, have almost sorta withered away at the back, it also almost looks as if the mirror backing scraped away, now giving more of a clear look. I would now want to remove some of the tiles out, Would it be advisable to use a chisel and hammer, to chip away the tile, or is there anything I can use to repair the tile.Much Appreciated

I'm not sure if the tiles are individual, or part of a mat. Either way I wouldn't use a chisel because you could damage the surrounding tiles, you could loosen the backing (mirror finish) of the surrounding tiles, and you could even damage the backing the tile is attached to, especially if it's attached to drywall instead of backerboard. First you want to cut through any grout. You can buy a cheap blade for this, or if you have a dremel tool or something similar, they make inexpensive grout removal tips. If there isn't any grout, you'll need to cut through the webbing if the tiles came attached to each other. You can do this with a knife, box cutter etc... At this point the only thing holding the tile in will be the glue. At this point you can gently use a chisel to break the bond. Hold the chisel upside-down, so the back of the chisel faces you and the angle is against the wall. Some call this paring, basically it allows the chisel to ride across the surface cutting behind the tile. Using it the standard way will cause the chisel to dig into the drywall or backerboard. Hope this helps, e-mail with any questions, Alan

Q:Classification of tiles?

les according to the process is divided into: glazed tiles, quintana brick, polished tiles, tiles, ceramic tiles. 1, polished tiles: polished tiles is the surface of the whole body brick body polished / polished from a kind of bright brick, is a kind of quintana brick. The surface of the polished tiles is much cleaner than the quintiles. Polished tiles are hard and wearable and are suitable for use in most interior spaces except for toilets and kitchens. In the use of infiltration technology on the basis of polished tiles can make a variety of imitation stone, imitation wood effect. Polished tiles easy to dirty, non-slip performance is not very good. 2, tiles: This is a high temperature firing ceramic tile, is the hardest of all the tiles. The tiles are more demanding than the polished tiles. Requires a better press, can suppress a higher density, the firing temperature is higher, to achieve full porcelain. The tiles are reinforced polished tiles. The surface does not need to be polished. Can be more resistant to dirt. Polished tiles and tiles are relatively beautiful, high wear resistance, generally used in the living room.

Q:i stay in a moblie home and i would like to lay tile but a lot of ppl are saying not to cause within time the wood under it would give way is that true i dont want to put more carpet cause i have little ones and am tired of shampooing my carpet i have to do it about 4 times a yr and my carpet is a dark green i know but thats what it came with it look nice when it was new but the carpet is 3 yrs old now and not so good looking after so much cleaning .well let me know please

Tiles are OK for a change but which tiles? There are variety of materials offered in tiles like clay/ceramics, porcelain, PVC etc. You can segregate these into hard and flexible category. The wooden floors are semi-hard floors. They are neither rigid nor flexible but fairly closer to the flexible surfaces. Flexible floors can not take the hard materials like clay or porcelain tiles etc. they are fit for flexible materials like carpets, PVC, laminated boards or wooden tiles. For a mobile home with wooden floors carpets or PVC floors are the best. i will not recommend rigid flooring like concrete or ceramic tiling. You can easily find tile-finish PVC or laminated board flooring in variety of colors. Try some if you are fed up with carpets and looking for a change.

Q:In my home, we have polished tiles. My kid has fall-down most of the time. Can anyone help me to remove polish from ceramic tiles?

You do not want to do this for two reasons. One is that it will take away all the protection from the tile that allows the tile itself to be water proof and stain proof. Take away the glaze and the tile will stain. The second reason is that the glaze provides most of the tile body strength. A couple of things to help prevent tiles from being slick.. Remove all wet shoes and keep the floor dry. Hard with kids I know. Anti slip area rugs helps. And lastly there are products that you can use in the mop water that helps the tiles from being slick. B -Safe is one OTC product that is commercially rated that you can use day to day. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:Does anyone know if I can lay ciramic tile over the dull worn out linoleum floor in my kitchen? I don‘t want to peel up the linolium because of the insane amount of labor it will take, and make the sub floor un even. any suggestions? Will tiles still stick to this material?Thanks!

You don't have to remove the old linoleum. But, you must prepare the surface for tiling. If the floor flexes at all, you could end up with cracked tiles or grout just by walking on the floor. You also need to put something down over the linoleum surface for the tile to stick to. First, you nail down a layer of hardy-backer. This is about a 1/4 to 3/8-inch cement-based wallboard. Next, you have to float about 1/4 inch of mastic on the hardy-backer to make a nice, flat surface (like pouring a cement floor). You then put about a 15-pound slipsheet on top of the wet mastic and let it set. The slipsheet allows minute movements of the subfloor due to thermal expansion without stressing the set tile. Once the mastic sets (usually overnight), you can begin setting the tile.

Q:i have tiles in my bathroom witch are painted(not me was like that wen i moved in) was wondering if i cud wallpaper or tile over them

you could paint over them again, which would look fine, but I wouldn't tile over them. to start, its not a smooth surface, which means that it will be very very hard to do a good job. Plus at some point, the old tiles will start to lift and fall off, which means it will ruin your new tile job. for what its worth - scraping them off is not a fun job, but its not a hard job and its something you could do yourself which would save money.

Q:Tile 60 * 60 price

600 * 600 difference of 6 yuan, a good point of about 15 yuan, the best 60 or so

Q:We have recently had our bathroom refitted, and tiled floor to ceiling with large ceramic tiles in a brick pattern. However now finished it is obvious that they are uneven. The tiler said it is the tiles. Is this likely or is it just a bodged job - he re-platerboarded the walls prior to tiling so they should be flat?

From what I understand, I'd install either waterproof drywall or regular which you can then seal. You can shim the drywall out where the gap is with furring strips. This will give you a straight surface to put your tile on. This assumes the drywall butts into a corner. You can't put tile on an uneven surface as it just magnifies the unevenness. You might be able to put a molding on to cover the gap. That sounds the easiest and cheapest. Take a picture and show it to some one at a tile store or at a hardware store and they might be able to help.

Q:The tiles were installed about 2 1/2 weeks ago, and we decided that we just cant live with the really wide grout lines that ended up gradually becoming huge. So we‘ll have to remove about half of the tile. Is it possible to remove and reuse these tiles? If so, what about the left-over thin set? Will it be stuck on the tiles? And what about the cement board under them? Is it reusable or easier to just replace? Thanks for any answers!

This is going to be messy. Usually the tiles will break when removing them, if they were properly installed in the first place. Some tile may not break but the mastic will stick to either the tile or backer board. The mastic must be scraped off. Over all it would be simpler to just demo the old tile and start over.