G Type Screw Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 350 set/month

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Product Introduction:

type screw pump for a single screw-type transport pumps, because of its excellent performance in recent years in the domestic application of rapid expansion. Its most important feature of the media flexibility and a smooth flow, pressure, pulse of small, self-absorption capacity, which is by any other species can not replace the pump can be realized liquid, gas, solid multiphase lose, applied to Chemical, pharmaceutical, electroplating, printing and dyeing, paper, electricity and other transportation industries lubrication or non-lubricating medium, corrosive media, containing a small amount of tiny solid particles of medium and low viscosity of the medium to high viscosity.

Range of Application:

To handle industrial and domestic wasterwater, and muddy water containing solid particles and short fibre;To handle mediums such as oil remains in oil tankers,oil water,oil residue and etc.;

To handle thick paste ,emulsified paste,unguent cosmetics and etc.;

To handle adhesive starch ,cooking oil ,honey, pulpy sugar, mashed fruit,cream and other leftovers;

To handle paste in the industries of brewage,construction ,mining ,printing ,papermaking and etc.

Type Designation:

Model	Speed r/min	Flow M3/h	Pressure Mpa	Motor KW	Head m	Inlet mm	Outlet mm	Allowable particulate size(mm)	Allowablefibre length(mm)
G20‐1	960	0.8	0.6	0.75	60	25	25	1.5	25
G25‐1	960	2	0.6	1.5	60	32	25	2	30
G25‐2	960	2	1.2	2.2	120	32	25	2	30
G30‐1	960	5	0.6	2.2	60	50	40	2.5	35
G30‐2	960	5	1.2	3	120	50	40	2.5	35
G35‐1	960	8	0.6	3	60	65	50	3	40
G35‐2	960	8	1.2	4	120	65	50	3	40
G40‐1	960	12	0.6	4	60	80	65	3.8	45
G40‐2	960	12	1.2	5.5	120	80	65	3.8	45
G50‐1	960	20	0.6	5.5	60	100	80	5	50
G50‐2	960	20	1.2	7.5	120	100	80	5	50
G60‐1	960	30	0.6	11	60	125	100	6	60
G60‐2	960	30	1.2	15	120	125	100	6	60
G70‐1	720	45	0.6	11	60	150	125	8	70
G70‐2	720	45	1.2	18.5	120	150	125	8	70
G85‐1	720	65	0.6	15	60	150	150	10	80
G105‐1	500	100	0.6	22	60	200	200	15	110
G135‐1	400	150	0.6	37	60	250	250	20	150

Technology Parameters:

Flow：0-150m3/h；

Head：60-120m；

Power：0.75-37kw；

Rotary speed：500-960r/min；

Calibre：20-135mm；

Temperature：-15-200℃

Q: I did change water pump before but not on wv beetle?: If okorder , I have serious doubts about your doing a timing belt which has to come off and go back on to do the water pump. I also can't picture a water pump going bad in under 15 years or 150,000 miles. Spendy job, so please be sure before disassembling. OH and if you mess up on the timing belt you can bend the valves and cost yourself around 1,500 US dollars. ASE Cert Auto Tech, 92 GTI 16V 2.0L

Q: water pump and thermostat were replaced 18 months ago motors done about 20 hrs since replacement have checked and there are no blockagers in water tube what could be the problem thanks: change ever year rubber don,t last sitting on in the heat

Q: Could this be a result of a bad water pump.: Water is a normal byproduct of catalytic converter operation. If you are concerned about a possible coolant consumption issue, observe your exhaust for any signs of white smoke emitting. It's highly unlikely that coolant would be able to make it through your exhaust and to the end of the tailpipe, as exhaust temperatures run between the 500-900 degree range. If there are no signs of white smoke, then your vehicle is operating as it's supposed to.

Q: My friends car is a 1997 jeep wrangler. The belt broke and she took it in to get it replaced and they told her metal from the pully that broke got into the water pumpand they have to replace that to? WTF? it makes a squealing noise and they want to charge her another 300 for that! we just don't understand how that could be if the pump isn't even leaking?: I don't think you wouldn't necessarily know if the pump is leaking. It would just make the car overheat because the coolant wouldn't get circulated. The reason it costs so much to have a water-pump replaced is because it is buried deep in the engine bay near the timing belt and it takes several hours to replace it. The actual cost of the water pump is probably under $100.

Q: as i asked before in my question what needs to be fixed when a water pump goes bad. so finally it went bad today the car leaked all coolant and for some reason all the blades on the fan broke and the battery light came on. which is connected to the alternator belt so thats not the problem. so now does anybody have any idea how much it would cost to fix and by what i know it needs a new belt for water pump and new fan and water pump etc. taking it to mechanic monday but wanna get an estimate first from u people. any ideass thanks: seems like you pretty much know what you need id say add the belt tensioner they do go bad so while you got it a apart wouldbe smart to go a head and get one also and really since you know whats bad you could replace it all your self seems like you know more than you think none of it will be hard

Q: We had to have our well pump replaced yesterday, how long before the well settles down, and the water tastes like it used to?The company who replaced the pump told us when changing a pump it disturbs the well, and it would take time for everything to settle back into place. Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.: Something seems a little fishy here besides the smell of the water. 1) Replacing the pump will do nothing to keep your well from being sucked dry unless the pump was sunk lower in the well. 2) A space is left between the bottom of the pump and the bottom of the well so that you have a place for sediment to settle, anywhere from 10' to 50'. 3) If you sink the pump lower you are placing it in the sediment area and will keep sucking up sediment until its level is drawn down. 4) Water literally flows thru the well and unless your well casing was damaged or the walls below it are collapsing it would be difficult to stir up anything. Apparently what they have done is to lower the pump pipe causing the pump to sit in the available sediment area. If you run the pump enough you will eventually suck the sediment down out of the bottom of the well. However, you will have less of a sump left and you will draw more sediment out of the well from now on. The only permanent solution to your problem was to drill the well deeper. I have recent firsthand experience with this both professionally (customers wells) and personally (my own well). The water will clear up but it may take some time and quite a bit of flow but from now on you will draw more particulates out of your well. Your cheapest and best solution is to invest in a filter to go inline after your pressure tank. They run about $70 plus installation and will need the filters changed between 1 and 6 months depending on how turbid your water is. Good Luck!

Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.: I used to work for a dealer, they price by the book, even if they are already in there.... so if say you want to replace your alternator and your belts, they look up what labor is on the alternator, and then look up what labor on the belts is and add them together, even though youd have to pull the belts to change the alternator anyways. So basically you get charged for labor twice under this system. A different shop should be able to do this cheaper. If your water pump is out you should be overheating...... If youre doing the timing belt though, you probably want to look into those cam seals, if they leak on your timing belt they will weaken the belt and maybe make it break, which is really bad if you have an interferance engine (meaning if the pistons are up and the valves are down they will hit, usually breaking/bending the valves). The dealer should know if its an interferance engine or not, or you could do a quick internet search. If the belt has never been replaced i would definately recommend doing it though. Whatever you end up doing though, i would get a second opinion from a non dealer. At toyota they would charge more for lexus parts than toyota parts, even though it was the same part with a different part number... you may be in the same sort of boat with the audi.

Q: can this happen that pump is pressurizing system and no flow in suction.: Hi, It seems to me your question is miss- worded or it simply flew over over my head. I'm intending the same project when time is there for it. I m a' machine builder by trade as also an oilfeild welder so tend to trust my plans about design. My answer to your question is you can't suck water from a plugged pipe except one tiny amount that would create a vaccum. My plan is an inline hot water pump(automotive type) to go to and from the water heater while the pluming route may have radiators or other heat transfer sourses like plane pipeat various points of the house return in an open pipe flow lie.Thermostate control hooked tothe electric motor that drives the water pump

Q: My '95 Ford Ranger has had the sound of a bearing going bad in a pulley for about two months. Finally this weekend I started it up and it must have locked up, the belt was squealing really loud and snapped. So, now the water pump pulley has rubber chunks on it, which would make me think that is the bad pulley. But the pulley spins perfectly, really smooth. The alternator pulley on the other hand does not spin perfectly. It is not really hard to spin, but it does not spin smoothly. And the alternator pulley is real clean, no rubber on it at all. Any thoughts? I was thinking of buying a cheap belt and putting it on there, have someone start the truck and watch under the hood to see which is bad.: Bad Alternator Pulley

Q: The water pump is bat on the car I have. I have the part but I need to know if I should have someone install it for me or could I do it myslef. I heard it the timing may be messed up after the pump is in: It is a pretty big deal. Essentially, the timing belt has to be replaced because the pump is driven by the timing belt. It would be crazy to put the old belt back on unless there is less than ten thousand miles on the belt. For the same reason it is common practice to replace the water pump when replacing the belt. If you are going to do it yourself get a hefty impact wrench - 450 ft-lbs minimum - even if you have to rent it. Loosening the crank bolt by hand is a Herculean task and my 500 ft-lb impact struggles. Always use non-silicate antifreeze in your Honda. Silicates can cause the water pump seal to fail early. If in doubt, get the proper stuff from the dealer. I believe it is premixed, but in case my old mind is playing tricks always dilute antifreeze with purified water.

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