Full Bore Ball Valve Made In China Best Price

Full Bore Ball Valve Made In China Best Price

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 pc

Supply Capability:: 1000 pc/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Fixed choke valve with API 6A Standard for Oil Field Usage

API Cast Steel Check Valve 300 Class in Accordance with ISO17292、API 608、BS 5351、GB/T 12237

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 600 Class

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve Size 450 mm

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 1 Mpa

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 2.5 Mpa

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double Disc PN 6.4 Mpa

Swing Check Valve Wafer Type Double PN 10 Mpa

1.Features Of Full Bore Ball Valve

ZJHR full bore ball valve is designed according to international universal standard design and has choice of high reliability and widely used actuator such as DA, SR and AW series pneumatic actuator or EI electric actuator to ensure high reliability. The characteristic includes compact construction, light weight, small volume, convenient maintains. It is applicable for controlling high viscosity medium with fiber and granule.

Features:

1. Unimpeded flow passage and low flow resistance.

2. perfect sealing and low leakage.

3. Anti-static.

4. Stem anti-fly.

5. Fire proof satisfies API 607/API 6FA requirements.

2.Specifications Of Full Bore Ball Valve

Type	Straight-through casting (forging)globe valve
Normal size	DN15～500mm
Pressure rating	ANSI Class 150~2500; PN 1.6~32 MPa
End connections	Flanged：FF、RF、MFM
Body & Bonnet Material	SCPH2/WCB，SCPH21/WC6，SCS13A/CF8，SCPL1/LCB, Ti and other alloy steels .etc.
Ball Materials	SUS304，SUS316，SUS316L
Seal ring Materials	SUS304，SUS316，SUS316L，RTFE
Fluid Temperature	－45～＋350℃
Flow characteristics	ON-OFF
Metal seat	ANSI Class IV,V
Soft seat	ANSI Class VI
Actuator	AW(S)/SR/DA Cylinder piston type Electronic type Intelligent type

3.Body Of Full Bore Ball Valve

Type	Straight-through casting globe valve
Normal size	1/2"（15）、3/4"（20）、1"（25）、1¼"（32）、1½"（40）、2"（50）、2½"（65）、3"（80）、4"（100）、5"（125）、6"（150）、8"（200）、10"（250）、12"（300）、14"（350）、16"（400）
Pressure rating	PN1.6、4.0、6.3MPaANSI 150#、300#、600#JIS10K、20K、40K
End connection	Flanged：FF、RF、MFM Flange standard：JIS B2201-1984、B/T79.1-94(PN1.6MPa);JB/T79.2-94(PN4.0、6.4MPa); ANSI B16.5-2009;HG20592-2009、HG20615-2009
Packing	Teflon or Graphite

4.Images Of Full Bore Ball Valve

5.Applications Of Full Bore Ball Valve

It is applicable for controlling high viscosity medium with fiber and granule and for many industries such as electric power, chemical industry, paper-making and light industry, etc.

FAQ

Q1：How Can I Get A Sample?
A1:You can get samples by communicate with our export sales.
Q2:How Long Is Delivery?
A2:Delivery time will be30-45days according to order quantity.
Q3:What Is The MOQ?
A3:MOQ depends on different items.
Q4:What Is Our Normal Payments Terms?

Q: I was diagnosed by 2 places that my 1995 chevy lumina needed a new egr valve due to the check engine light being on. I got a new EGR valve but the check engine light is still on. Evidently there is something else wrong with the car. Since the check engine light is still on would you figure that my EGR valve is still good and that the light comes on for some other problem?: i think your right. I'm not sure but a think your EGR valve is vacuum operated. If so, there is a vacuum solenoid to control the vacuum to the egr valve. There is also intake vacuum to this solenoid. Could be no vacuum to solenoid or a bad solenoid or wires controlling the solenoid. But also could be a completly different problem other than egr. You need to go back to the shop that put on the egr valve and find out why the egr valve didnt fix your problem. And either have them fix it right or get your money back.

Q: looking to get a greddy type rs blwout valve for my sti, but i wana noe wut exactly da blowut valve does....kause i just got da car and i bought warranty, and i wana make sure ma warranyt doesnt void.....and how hard would it be to change da blowout valves....frum ma old 1 to dis new 1......so just incase ma warranty does void kause of da blwout valve wenneva i have problems i could switch it back to da original 1HELPPP???: flow with the APS blow off valve. As for the fool who reported call would not count, allow him flow purchase a $20 BOV and performance i the diaphragm start up leaking at idle and reason a lot of driving themes.

Q: people tell me i need to install new valves and valve guides: You might not need new valves or valve guides. Mitsubishis, along with many other vehicles, use hydraulic lifters which give off a ticking sound. They're located between the rocker arm, or in the rocker arm, and the head of the valve. It's very common and will not harm the engine. However, if the sound you're hearing is more of a rattling, like putting some nuts and bolts in a glass jar, you may need to pull the valve cover off and inspect for yourself to make sure that the rocker arms do not have any play to them while they are pushing on the valves. If there is any play in the rocker side to side, you may need to replace those rockers. However, if there is any play up and down you may just need to replace the lifter. To better check if you need new valves or valve guides run through this checklist: Are you burning oil? Have you done a compression test (both wet and dry)? And if so, were the compression numbers within spec? Have you felt a loss in power/idle quality/gas mileage? Is your oil level correct/using the correct oil/non-FRAM oil filter? At your next oil change, instead of using the recommended 5W-30 engine oil, try switching to something a little heavier, such as 10W-30, to cancel out the effect of possible lifter tick. Do not use a FRAM oil filter if you have in the past since they're filters tend to have additives that are unnecessary and may cause the engine harm.

Q: The hot water shutoff valve to the washing machine was dripping. I removed the packing nut and put in new packing over the weekend. Problem is that the packing nut seems to only go back on at an angle no matter what I do...it may have already been that way though. The valve isn't currently dripping, but I'm not liking the way the packing nut only goes on at an angle. Would it be crazy to keep the existing valve if I keep an eye on it and over time it doesn't drip, or is it too risky to keep this valve given that the packing nut is on at a funny angle? (Local plumbers here in Northern NJ all want around $350 if I were to replace both the hot and cold with a watts single handle valve.) Thanks, J.: A new valve is around $6. If you were able to do the work you did you certainly are capable of replacing the valve by yourself. That plumber is yanking your chain.

Q: I want to switch off the water in the bathroom only due to replacing sink taps, will water still come out of the pipe if i turn the stop valve: Only water what is still in the pipes will come out but you will lose all your hot water in the hot water cistern if you have that type of hot water storage tank.

Q: How come my boiler supply valve isnt letting water into my boiler, i have a cold water supply hooked up to it with the valve on i have tested the copper pipe goin into it and water flows into it, but when It reaches the valve it stops. I understand that it my have a backflow preventer in it and I am wondering if that could be malfunctioning. The hole you see on the front is where my expansion tank screws in. Also where could I get a new Valve. Thanks.http://img149.imageshack.us/i/boilerfillvalve.jpg/: I work on antique steam boilers and engines for a hobby and if your supply valve isn't letting feedwater into the boiler, I'm going to tell you right now that you potentially have a VERY dangerous situation on your hands. Until you get this issue resolved, I would recommend that you not steam this boiler up under any circumstances, unless you have a backup feedwater delivery system that is working correctly. Many people don't know this, but a low water condition in a boiler under steam is essentially a ticking time bomb and can result in a fatal explosion. As to what may be causing it, I would say it's possibly one of two things: 1.) The check valve has been installed backwards and the flow of water is basically pushing it shut. 2.) The check valve is installed correctly, but is frozen shut due to corrosion and scale. Either way, I would have a certified boiler inspector come out and take a look at it; he can probably tell you more than I can.

Q: I bought my first car recently. but it has a high idle and smoking problem, i already replaced the spark plugs. I've been reading about the exhaust gas re-circulation valve. but i cant find it. where exactly is the EGR valve located in a 1999 KIA Pride?: all EGR valves should ( unless a very odd engine) on exhaust manifold. they will have a tube outlet returning back to inlet manifold and a control mechanism on it ( electrical connection) . these valves are known to carbon up and fail both due to soot.heat .wear etc. very possible this is the problem. a temporary fix can occasionally be found by soaking over night in cleaning fluid such as easing oil or petrol etc and washing out but this sort of fix never lasts. be aware these valves are not cheap.

Q: So I bought my car about 4 months ago (1999 mustang) and the second day the check engine light came on and was the code for the EGR valve. I just reset the ECU and it went off and stayed off until now. Same code for the EGR, but this time after resetting ECU the light continues to come on. Is the EGR valve important enough to have fixed? and I have aftermarket Flomaster exhaust if that would have anything to do with the code being thrown: It used to be a cheap fix. I haven't worked on the newer vehicles, but it used to be an F-shaped plug, with vacuum hoses, that you could replace in a few minutes. Price was under $20. The biggest problem, then, was decoding the codes! I just looked it up and it seems to be pretty simple, and similar to what I worked on. A small diaphragm valve that runs about $50. Ford would probably charge you $300 for the part and another $100 or so to put it on. The EGR valve helps with exhaust and, to some degree, gas mileage. In other words, if you live in a state with strict rules about emissions, you may fail the test. In proper condition, you may notice a little better fuel mileage. Of course, when I drove a sports car, I noticed that a good waxing helped my mileage. LOL I doubt that the Flomaster would cause a problem. This is a sensor issue that is, or should be, directly related to the EGR valve itself. Of course, I haven't worked on vehicles for years, so... Google this and see what you think. Location should give you some pictures to show where it should be on your Mustang and then you can see if you think you can do it. Then, check the prices. If your state is a pain, fixing it is probably cheaper than failing the emissions test. Besides, the more work you can do yourself, the cheaper it is. The only real difference between you and the guys who work in the dealership is a degree (piece of paper) and a fancy machine. You can do the same things they do.

Q: What is the primary function of valve seals?: A 'leak-down' test is the best bet, indicates the place in the process the compression is leaking and if it's across the valve stems than for definite the seals need replacing. Are not able to judge it via the smoke correctly as oil would be slipping previous the rings also.

Q: My car (RWD) has vacuum leak and has the code PO171/PO174. I find some engine oil at the bolt well of the valve cover on the bank 2 side. Can the vacuum leak come from the valve cover? What is the main function of the valve cover? Thanks.: get a new p.c.v. vale . and in air cleaner is a a small filter that hose clips to . .most imporent is pcv vale is working and this will stop

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit