Fire-proof low smoke halogen free steel tape armored flexible cable-WDNA-RYY23

Fire-proof low smoke halogen free steel tape armored flexible cable-WDNA-RYY23

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 10000 km m/month

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Application: Mainly used in power industry, metallurgical industry, petrochemical industry, building industry and other constructional projects, specially in 0.6/1kV rated transmission line, distribution network and specific area with high population density which required flame-retardant and fire-proof for safety purpose.

Product characteristic:

Minimum bending radius: 20D for single core un-armored cable, 15D for single core armored cable, 15D also for multiple cores un-armored cable, and 12D for multiple cores armored cable.

Temperature rating: 70℃ for PVC insulation, and 90℃ for XLPE insulation.

Highest temperature when short circuit last 5 seconds: 160℃ for PVC insulation, and 250℃ for XLPE insulation.

Flame retardant property comply with GB/T 18380-2008; Fire proof property comply with GB/T 19216-2003.

Manufacturing standards: Chinese stardards(GB,JB)， International Electro-technical Standard(IEC), British standard(BS), Australian and New Zealand Standards(AS-NZS).

Products certification: CCC, CQC, CE, TUV， Rohs and so on.

Q:ill exlplain more the battery is connected to one end of the fuse then i want to run 2 power cables out of the other end to both of the amps will tis work or will i just loose power the fuse is 60A if that helps. 60A is massive why a fuse that big is needed i dont no: relatively there is alot incorrect alongside with your techniques. First. do not placed subs and substantial audio equipment in parallel with one yet another on an identical amp. One set is low freq and the different is higer. you are able to desire to seperate them. Get yet another amp for the 2nd set of audio equipment. additionally, switching the audio equipment out and in could chage the load the amp sees. solid thank you to screw some thing up with a change turning them on and rancid. purely get 2 amps and function one for substantial and one for subs. additionally, make helpful the turn on twine is on change voltage. you have it setup to consistently be on and which will run your battery ineffective. additionally, do not twine speaker on your radio/cd participant and additionally to the amp. you will fry the setup quickly!

Q:So here is the power supply, motherboard and graphics card I have.Power Supply: ATX-TL500W-BK Motherboard: GA-78-LMT-S2 Graphics Card: GV-N960XTREME-4gd As you can see the mother board is a (pcie 2.0), and my graphics card is 3.0 with a 6pin and 8pin slot on the side for It's power cables.My previous graphics card didn't need any cables to run to it, so I don't know what I need for going from the 3.0 to the 2.0, and I don't know where the power cables for the card connect to.Any help is very appreciated.: Could you possibly provide a link to a motherboard, and power supply that are still compatible with the ones I have as far as how they fit? Cause I would have no idea what I would be looking for.

Q:i soldered in one of those ribbon cables on to my hp's laptop power button cause the old ribbon was failing. anyways i am having some issues with this new cable1 the laptop will power on by itself if i insert the ribbon into the motherboard connector2 the only way to power off the laptop is to remove the cable from the mother board connector and that means opening up the whole laptop3 like i said it will power on by itself so that means that i cant turn it on/off with the power buttonevery thing is soldered correctly i dont understand also i am not sure but does the cable have to be like the old one cause the new one i soldered in looks the same? could it be that it needs that one particular cable replaced again? please help me i am sad: Soldered where ? Most ribbon cables are never soldered.. They are designed for push / cold-weld fit to connectors And soldering the cable risks melting the insulation between the cores in it (as they are not designed for heat) if you solder the motherboard, you risk damaging the wires (and vires) in the several layers of printed circuits (they are quite fine, multi layered not dual external visible only) I suspect you have damaged the cable (internally) update: from those pictures, it is clearly meant to be purchased 'as an already assembled' piece What I suspect has happened, is that there is a small sliver of solder etc (or dirty flux) between the tracks. Those are really low current, circuits, so does not take much 'leakage' to cause a contact to 'appear' closed. Repairing such things, often requires a very very narrow soldering bit and also fine solder / flux. I have seen most people use a microscope to do those repairs before - due to the likelyhood of small bits getting in the wrong place (and tracking unexpectedly occur). A good flux remover / cleaner would be useful ? Is the cost a replacement button complete with cable not cheaper to buy (OKorder is my favorite location for PC parts, shipped in from HK typically)

Q:What is the difference between a power cable and a cross-linked cable?: If there is a number of casing is the number of lines marked, if the line before the iron circle is a small nose, line nose in addition to a small circle and fork, and fork almost look.

Q:My power cord for my computer and all usb cables i have seen have these cylindrical things on them. What do they do?: Those are called ferrites. You can learn more about them from a company called Fair-rite (I put their link down below). A ferrite is really nothing more than a magnet, but one specially tuned depending on the frequency of signal running down the cable, or the current if the cable is a power cable. Electro magnetic interference (EMI) is all around us, especially with all the electronic devices we have running in the modern home. EMI flies through the air and, when it contacts something metalic, it runs along that metalic line. In the case of a cable, imagine the clean signal picking up fuzz as it runs down the line. That's pretty much what happens. A ferrite stops the fuzz from getting through to the end of the cable, thus making the signal much cleaner when the end device gets to it. On a power cord, the ferrite helps prevent too much EMI from leaking out at the end and interfering with the device that the power is for. I should mention that a ferrite is always optional on a line, in other words the cable will work without one. However, ferrites aren't expensive and they do help with the signal, so most companies will just add one on to the product just in case.

Q:I have lost the power cable which came with my computer's PSU and after looking online for a while the online shops seem to sell the power cables with little information about whether or not they will function with different PSUs so I am guessing it doesn't matter which one I buy.: The standard 3-prong PC power cables are universal. Many other devices also use them (monitors and old laser printers, fax machine etc). Any one would work.

Q:I'm running a 3ghz ecs p965t with 2gb of RAM, and I'm trying to install an XFX 8800GT. First time I tried it, it didn't power on at all, and I figured it might be the power supply (mine was a 350w) so I tried a friend's 450w, still no power. So I went out and bought a 500w, and STILL no power. Wierder still, if I leave the card plugged into the board but don't plug in the power connector, it makes a long high-pitched wailing sound but the system does power itself.I'm assuming it must be a problem with the card itself, but does anyone have any other possibilities I could try before negotiating a replacement in PC World?: I think its the card. This is not uncommon. Card sounds DOA. Exchange it. 500 watts is good, the others are not, but lack of power would not kill a card, I don't believe. good luck. 8800GT is a sweet card, thats what I have, I play at 1920x1080 and get between 40 and 60 FPS in far cry 2 and great frames in oblivion maxed out. I get around 30 in crysis on high.

Q:I originally tried to plug my US Xbox power cable through a converter, but it overloaded the cable and broke. Microsoft's advice to me was buy a Belgian Xbox, but they never answered my question about the compatability of a US Xbox 360 and a European Xbox 360 power cable.I appreciate any help I may get on this question.: Euro is 220v to 250v or thereabouts, U.S. is only 110v. That's why your old PSU blew up. You needed to buy a step down voltage converter for avout 15 Euros or so. The Xbox PSU itself will handle the mains for whichever country it was designed for and convert the power to a DC voltage of 12v for any Xbox 360.

Q:why use of black color for electrical Power cables ?: coz some materials are added for better quality and durability like carbon black which protects from UV radiation. -----------------

Q:The power input looks just like the back of any desktop pc, so im assuming it will work, but do i need to know anything before buying one?: Sure you can, as long as it doesn't any above normal resistance mating up. Only problem I foresee is if a pc power cable is heavy enough to handle the load.

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