• Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump for Irrigation System 1
  • Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump for Irrigation System 2
  • Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump for Irrigation System 3
Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump for Irrigation

Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump for Irrigation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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                       Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump

1.Structure of Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump Description

The pumps are designed for economical & trouble-free operation in handling solids-laden liquids and slurries, it handle up to 76.2mm spherical solids. Pumps feature a large volute design which allows them to re-prime automatically in a completely open system without the need of suction or discharge check valves. And this is workable with the pump only partially filled with liquid and completely dry suction line.

 

Standard Self-Priming pump units are available for Solids Handling or Clear Liquid service. Typical mounting configurations are Engine Driven for Skid or Trailer Mounted packages and Frame Mounted Electric Driven.  Pumps also are available in a variety of different metallurgies.

 

2.Main Features of Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump

Big pump body pass 76.2mmsolid ,high suction head 7.6 m

Convenient repair and clean (a person ten minutes)

Removable cover plate ,replaceable wear plate

Replaceable Wear Plate

Heavy Duty Suction Flapper

Removable Inspection Cover allows Clean-out, Impeller, Seal and Flapper without disturbing Piping

Semi-Opened Trash Handling Impeller

Pressure Relief Valve

External, Shimless Impeller/Wear plate Clearance Adjustment

Back Pull-out Cartridge-type Rotating Assembly for Ease of Maintenance

Cartridge Type Mechanical Seal for Ease of Maintenance

3.Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump Images

Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump for Irrigation

4.Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump Specification

 

Material

 

Cast Iron, ADI, CD4MCU, 316 SS, Alloy 20, C276.

Diesel Driving

 

Water cooled or air cooled

Method of Connection

Self-priming pumps are available as basic units or may be flex-coupled, V-belt driven or engine mounted.

Inlet/Outlet

 

2''(50mm), 3''(75mm), 4''(100mm), 6''(150mm), 8''(200mm), 10''(250mm), 12''(300mm)

Impeller Diameter

 

158.74mm-457.2mm

Rotary Speed

 

550RPM-2150 RPM

Flow Rates

 

8m3/h-1275m3/h

Head

 

6m-63m

Horsepower

 

1HP-125HP

Solid Passing

 

20.63mm-76.2mm

5.FAQ

①What is the lead time for samples?

7-10days

How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality testWe resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance. Normally, We have 1 year warranty.

How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. It related to the state and detailed requirement of customers.

 

 

 

Q:hiI have very low pressure only on the hot water in my kitchen sink. Cold water is fine. Can anyone recommend a water pump/power shower i can use for boosting my hot water in the kitchen sink tap?Ive already tested the faucet by swapping the water supplies.thanks
To determine if it's the water system or the faucet, turn off the hot water supply valve and remove the supply line from the faucet (or remove it from the spigot on the wall and use a spare supply line). Turn the water on full and direct the water into a bucket to determine the flowrate (like you did earlier from the tap). Now repeat with the cold spigot. Did you get the same amount of water over the same amount of time (same flowrate)? If so, there's something wrong with the faucet, and it needs to be repaired or replaced. If not, you likely have some restriction in your hot water system, which could be the supply valve itself. Or it could be something anywhere from the water heater to that spigot. Next you would have to do something similar (measuring the flowrate) at various faucets in your house (including a bath/shower) to see if it's a house-wide problem or just local to that kitchen faucet. One thing that does happen in hot water systems is that debris from scale buildup in the water heater can be flushed out into the pipes and create restrictions in the valves that could affect flowrate.
Q:Even when all water is shut off in the camper, my water pump keeps running. Even when the tank is completely empty. Does anyone know what is causing this?
The pump is pressure regulated and kicks on when pressure in the water storage tank drops, such as it does when you open a water faucet. Either the pressure regulator is defective or you have a leak in the plumbing. Somewhere there is an electric switch where you can turn the pump off manually, either on the pump or near the pump. I suggest you shut it off until you can determine what the problem is.
Q:We just replaced the motor on our water pump that burnt out but we are still getting no water pressure. My father in law did a lot of test stuff on it he thinks it's the foot valve. Well I've been trying to call every where get quotes but NOT 1 of the places I called is answering their phone for some reason. So how much dose it usually run to have someone come fix your foot valve so I have an idea to tell my husband?
A very good foot valve will cost about $20 then it will be the cost of a service call, here we charge about $70 but depending on where you live, how deep the valve is and where its located the price maybe different, and the cost maybe more on a weekend too. Giving quotes for this is not really profitable for service companies, so if you are not prepared to do it yourself then you will have to pay the service call rate. A good reputable company will arrive at your home and give you an approximation on what it will cost, but remember once you call them there you will probably have to pay the service call rate, if you are running tight on money call around and ask the rates but remember that this is a weekend and most companies will be running a small crew and might take time to answer your call. The other option is since you have changed the pump yourself why not just change the foot valve your self? Have you primed the pump after replacement? To replace the valve the pipe that runs to the bottom of your well must be pulled up and the valve is on the bottom of it, its a simple matter of removing the old one and replacing with new the big job is usally the pulling up of the pipe.
Q:We had a thunderstorm followed by power outage last night, this morning I went to use the water and it slowly went dead.I began by inspecting the pressure tank and pressure control switch, then found the outside water pump breaker was tripped, upon resetting the water was back on!But wait, after about 1-2 minutes of use there was a small quot;POPand smoke from the control switch and the breaker tripped again. It seems now that every time the water pump kicks in I've got a 50/50 shot of the circuit breaker blowing. I'm not sure what to do now, I don't want to keep resetting my pump breaker, we really didn't get that much rain so I don't know what would be causing this issue?Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks!
Water Pump Trips Circuit Breaker
Q:I have a Goulds JPlus water pump inside my home. Last night, my wife and I heard it going on and off repeatedly when we went to bed. I have two shallow wells hooked up to it, so I switched wells even though I didn't believe the one I was on was dry (it was supplying H2O fine).Still no luck, so I turned it off at the breaker and shut off the valve between the tank and pressure switch. Today, the pump pressure gets to between 50 and 60, then goes off. It then loses pressure v ery quickly (approx 10-20 seconds) and goes back on when the pump switch hits the lower threshold. It sounds like the water is running back through the pump and out of the house when it goes off unless I turn the shut off valve I spoke of earlier. I changed the pressure switch and no difference.I can, however, turn it on and shower, flush, etc. I just then have to go down and turn the pump back off.Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If there is space try to hit the head of the bolt with a hammer, the shock from the hammer blow will help you to loosen the bolt. Failing that the next thing to try is an allen key socket, with this you can use a long strong arm to apply extra torque to the bolt. Be carefully not to open up the head of the bolt as this can be a major pain. If you still cannot get it out then if the water pump is to be replaced try to get an angle grinder on the bolt to cut its head off. Once the head is off and the pump is out you can use a stud extractor of a good vice grip to remove the stub of bolt left over.
Q:I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.
A missing bolt can definitely cause it to leak. The water pump needs to be torqued to specs and evenly all the way around to be leak free. Miss a bolt and it won't be sealed properly.
Q:What is the meaning of "ETA" in pump selection table, the unit is%; and what does "NPSH" mean? The unit is m. Is in the south water pump performance curve appeared, please refer to the master, and now thank you.
NPSH refers to the cavitation, the pump is the technical parameters
Q:2 different pulleys are in the way of the 2 remaining long bolts. at each end of the pump. tensioner did not need to be moved as belt is already off. Motor mount is 1/2 way removed and motor has dropped slightly gt; Am reading a jack must be placed under motor with wood via oil pan ( am hoping no other damage was done) Am told there is a certain device available to remove the pulleys? ... -Would appreciate anyone's info and advice on the remaining steps to this procedure on this make and model engine. as I have come into it obviously with it having begun the wrong way!! Thanks!!
Are you sure? Try using a search engine (could be Bing, Yahoo, Google).
Q:i own a 02 gti 337 i bought back in 04 the water is leaking bad and im pretty sure the water pump has gone bad on it i had it replaced awhile back but the check engine came on it isnt this time so i think its just a leak from the seal my question is where is the water pump located is it on the timing belt or is it on a seperate pulley i dont wanna mess with the timing belt and i dont have the money to get this replaced so any help would be great thanks
02 Golf Gti
Q:How to remotely control submersible pumps?
Now the remote control of submersible pumps and pumps is very mature, and the cost is relatively low. We use the Ji'nan Huichi electronic pump remote controller controlled step-down start control cabinet, convenient Clockwork SMS can control the pump start and stop, and return to the working condition of the water pump, water pump overload or lack of power can also feedback fault message to the responsible person

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