• Diaphragm Metering Pumps Air Driven Pumps System 1
  • Diaphragm Metering Pumps Air Driven Pumps System 2
  • Diaphragm Metering Pumps Air Driven Pumps System 3
  • Diaphragm Metering Pumps Air Driven Pumps System 4
Diaphragm Metering Pumps Air Driven Pumps

Diaphragm Metering Pumps Air Driven Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Diaphragm Metering Pump Air Driven Pump 



Product Information

GMseries coal mine pneumatic diaphragm pump is small and light, highefficiency, low noise and more durable, easy to operate, reliable, it can be used for water draining in coal mines, food industry and chemical treatment.The pump is driven by compressed air for safety.


Pneumatic diaphragm pump properties:

  • High roundness valve ball for use the ball mill machine, enhance check valve seal.

  • Fluid chamber and manifold adopt four bolts connection, Strong and good dry suction. The actual dry suction can reach to 4~7m

  • Three section manifold, Flexible installation and even can change to be four ports pump.

  • Longer diaphragm life. Raw material from Dopont, Exxon. Dakin.

  • Aluminum pump and stainless steel pump adopt precision casting, smooth surface.

  • Plastic pump adopt flange connection, stronger than thread connection.

 

 Specification:

Model

Diameter

(mm)

Max Flow

(L/min)

Suction

(m)

Max Discharge Pressure (Bar)

Max Grain Dia (mm)

Max Air Consumption (L/min)

QBK-8

8

16

5

6.9

1

300

QBK-10/15

10/15

20

5

6.9

1

300

QBK-25

25

100

5

6.9

2.5

600

QBK-40

40

140

5

6.9

4.5

600

QBK-50

50

240

5

6.9

8

900

QBK-65

65

280

5

6.9

8

900

QBK-80

80

400

5

6.9

10

1500

QBK-100

100

480

5

6.9

10

1500

 


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Diaphragm Metering Pumps Air Driven Pumps





Q: The water is being put in because it was overheating. We changed the thermostat and everything and it got better, but about a month later it started overheating again and now it is leaking water bad from underneath the car. Whatever is leaking is covered by a shield thing. Im not sure what it is, and I dont want to replace it before I know if thats really what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.
Q: I want to either get a kit to rebuild the water pump or just by the entire assembly, but im not sure which water pump/kit that i will need for a 1997 mercury 25 hp 2 stroke.Serial Number 0G474648,1997 year,model is 25el according to transom plate.Any help will be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.
Water pump rebuild kit from Mercury, part# 99157T2, about $65. The kit includes the impeller, all gaskets and seals, wear plate and pump body insert. Sierra marine offers a cheaper kit, but their kit does not include the wear plate or pump insert, and these parts cannot be purchased separately from Sierra, so I would not recommend this kit, unless your wear plate and pump insert have been previously changed in the last 3 years.
Q: What will the water pump reversal situation?
Small amount of water, lack of pressure, but not long time running, so that the pump impeller back cap will drop, loose impeller, water pump may damage.
Q: How much should it cost to have the water pump replaced in a 1994 Dodge Ram truck?
A new one is about $64 .. You didn't say what engine, so I guessed 1994 Dodge Truck RAM 1500 1/2 ton 2WD 5.2L MFI ? It should take about 2 hours to do this. If you can't do this yourself, I would expect to pay about $80 per hour labor -
Q: Why can't vertical water pump use spring shock absorber?
Vertical pump can use spring shock absorber, because the bottom of the vertical pump installation area is small, so many people feel that it can not install spring shock absorber, actually not, and now there is a vertical pump can use the shock absorber;Introduction of spring shock absorber for vertical pump;1 、 spring cover and spring seat for the combination of butyl glue and cast iron, and after baking treatment, good weather resistance.2, according to simple installation, bolts can be used to adjust the height and level.3, can be matched with the pedestal design, can be used in various types of machinery and equipment.4, applicable to all types of pumps, fans, air conditioning boxes, pipes and so on.
Q: Our watrer pump on our well will constantly prime itself when we use the water in our house.As you are running the tap the water will gain pressure on and off like someone is using another tap in the house. Any suggestions?THanks in advacne
How old is the Pump ? Could the Impeller be worn out ? Is there a replaceable filter ? Could it possibly be stopped up ? Are there any leaks in the pipe leading from the well ? Is there a way that you could measure the current being drawn by the pump, with an Amp Meter, to determine if it's pulling more Current than it should be ? Until these questions are answered, it's probably just going to be a guessing game.
Q: Why does the water pump in the tank pull out the power supply and then plug it in?
What kind of filter pump? If you don't pump water, there may be a blockage in the foreign body. You can either take a look or fail to reach the level of water it needs
Q: I have gotten oil in my coolant, and coolant in my oil..It might be the head gasket, no doubt, but many people said (online forums) that my bike, has issues with the seal that is separating oil pump from water pump. They go bad, and when they do, the oil mixes with coolant and vise versa. Now, I am seeking from professional help, on how to take out both of the pumps, without messing up timing, and also without messing up anything else. I have removed the entire exhaust system, dropped the oil pan, and i can see the oil/water pump pretty good. What i do not know is how to remove it properly. Any help is help, I have searched and searched on google and forums on how to perform this task, but couldnt find any specific help on how to remove the pump. Thank you!!!!!
Most okorder for a good schematic of your oil pump and water pump assembly
Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Coolant leaks (not into the oil)*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)Ive had this problem for a while. Some times my van drives just fine and heats just fine, then some days it wants to over heat and blow cool quot;heatquot;. Adding coolant to my van used to do the trick, but now its not working. If it is my thermostat that is broke, the water/coolant would still run through the hoses right?I really think its my water pump out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump? If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
Again, see last answer to your same question. You obviously dont know what the real problem is, could be water pump and might not be. Instead of wasting over 25.00 on a water pump and that not being the problem, why dont you take it to a reputable repair facility and have the cooling system analyzed and they can tell you EXACTLY what part(s) need replacing, then go from there. Nobody can diagnose your cooling system problem over the internet since we are not at your vehicle with a coolant pressure tester and block test tool.
Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
This is your recirculating pump. If it is a marine pump, it will have a brass backed seal and no heater hose outlet. (have seen them in the casting, but no hole there) The only difference is the casting, as long as it was ordered for the boat, you should be OK. For got to ask, do you have a cabin heater in the boat?

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