• Ball Valve For Heating Supply PN 4 Mpa high-performance System 1
  • Ball Valve For Heating Supply PN 4 Mpa high-performance System 2
  • Ball Valve For Heating Supply PN 4 Mpa high-performance System 3
  • Ball Valve For Heating Supply PN 4 Mpa high-performance System 4
  • Ball Valve For Heating Supply PN 4 Mpa high-performance System 5
Ball Valve For Heating Supply PN 4 Mpa high-performance

Ball Valve For Heating Supply PN 4 Mpa high-performance

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
1000 pc/month

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Ball Valve For Heating Supply

Product Description of Ball valve for heating supply:

Technical introduction

The ball valve is designed as fully welded structure,which can prevent the leakage of medium.
The valve seat is floating and spring-loade.The seal is made of soft seal materials of PTFE+20%C and Viton B.The seat is tightly abutted against the ball surface by the pressure of a spring,so that even if the media is in low pressure,a reliable sealing can be assured for the ball valve.Double piston effect and double seal(two-seal seat)are adopted in specially designed valve seat to realize double sealing,which makes the tightness of the ball valve more advantageous and the operation easier.
A floating ball is adopted for DN15-DN200,and a stem and trunnion ball is adopted for DN200 and above,which can ensure the accurate position of different size ball.In other words,the sealing performance,low torque valve and operability can be guaranteed.
The sealing of the stem is fulfilled by two replaceable O-rings and packing consisting of PTEE+20%C or flexible graphite,as the packing seal material,is fire proof effect,and is specially suitable for fuel gas systems.
The materials used for the valve body and pipelines are the same(carbon steel or SS steel),valve body and stem adopt SS steel and the packing adopts PTEE+20%C which is corrosion-resistance or flexible graphite.

                                             

Design Features  of Ball valve for heating supply:

Features and Applications

Raymond's fully welded ball valve for heating supplyand Fuel Gas systemare used to control the flow at fully open or closed position,not regulate the flow.Only special types of ball valves can realize the flow regulation.Therefore,our welded ball valves can satisfy the requirements of heating systems,e.g:
Main pipelines of heating equipment
Cross channels of heating pipes
Heat exchanger station and any long distance operating station,e.g:
For the transmission of hot water and two kinds of mixed media(water,air or natural gas),limited to Max.4.0MPa and 200°C.
For the transmission of natural gas and one medium,from -30°C to 60°C,and even up to 150°C using specially designed ball valves.
Coal gas pipelines,trunk and the branch supply lines.

 

Standard of Ball valve for heating supply:

Actuator

 Gear  Handwheel customize 

Connection

 Flange  SW  Weld customize 

Medium

 Gas  Natural   gas  Water customize 

Medium Temperature

 <200< span=""> customize 

Application Fields

 Electricity  Medical  Petrochemical customize   

Connection Standard

 EN 1092-1  EN 12627  ISO   7-1 customize 

FAQ of Ball valve for heating supply:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.


Q:i want to know where we must use swing check valve and where we must use lift check valve in petrochemical companies. what are the differences ? are they different from the appearance? how can we distinguish between them visually?
Most swing check valves have a external plug on one or both sides of the body where there is access to the shaft. Lift checks do not have this feature. As to vertical operation of swing checks. There are many swing checks that have a restraint feature built into the body so they can operate in either the horizontal or vertical position. The main thing most people over look about check valves is the need for maintenance. The pivot pin on swing checks can wear and cause the clapper to not seat properly. In some services the internals can accumulate material and become fouled. Most lift checks have a spring that can fail and cause the valve to malfunction. This is specially true if the valve is installed in the vertical position. All checks should be periodically inspected to assure they can function properly.
Q:I did a compression test, and I have a broken valve. everything else is in perfect condition besides this valve and I have carbon getting built up in one of my pistons. Can I run the car like this? What cause this from happening what was the cause age?1999 Ford Explorer 4.0 OHV with 146k,miles
in case you have a broken valve, the broken element will probably destroy the cylinder and piston in case you run it that way. ought to easily be a flaw in the unique valve or another ingredient, no longer person-friendly to appreciate.
Q:i'm being charged $300 to replace a 75gallon water heater valve, is that too much?
What, just the valve? What valve? A stop valve in the supply or delivery line? Or the temperature and pressure valve? There's no way on God's green earth I'd ever fork over $300 for this job. I can do it myself in thirty minutes. The TP valve would take less than ten minutes. Granted I'm a handyman and I have a shopful of tools and 20 years experience. But back in the day, when I'd never done any maintenance work, I replaced my own water heater from start to finish and it only took a couple of hours. Unless there's something major going on that you're not disclosing to us, it sounds like a pretty serious overcharge. [edit] To answer your additional questions, I wouldn't pay that much to replace all three valves. The valves themselves aren't very expensive, and the only really difficult part of this entire operation is getting all the water under control to replace the drain valve. Something's going to get wet, and that tends to make homeowners annoyed and difficult customers. The TP valve is a simple wrench-in, wrench-out replacement. Water off, power off, drain below the level of the valve and out it comes. Control valve requires turning off the house's water, but less draining. Replacing the drain valve requires draining the entire heater but again it's a wrench-in, wrench-out job. Easy.
Q:i have a 05 kx250f, new valves recently,will pop start, idle runs high, has compresion, new kckstarter gear but it wont kickstart. someone said the valves need to be shimmed.anybody have any ideals? thanks.
Who okorder /
Q:We've got a one-handled faucet for the tub/shower and it has that pressure-balancing mechanism. We have it set, I think, so that we can take the hottest showers possible, because our water heater lacks enthusiasm. However, when I want to draw a bath for the baby, I need it to be lukewarm - and I have to turn it almost OFF to get the water to be even tepid. I can't get cold water out unless it's only trickling. As far as I can tell, our cold water pressure isn't different from the hot (bathroom faucets are 2 handles and H C seem to be about the same pressure). Is there a way to adjust the valve in the shower so I can get both the hottest possible, and the coldest possible water at full pressure?
All major manufactures of valves have excellent customer service departments. Most of them also have great websites with lots of technical info. Note: You may try changing your shower head to one that is a higher flow or remove any flow restrictor that may be in the one you have now. This may allow you to have the valve set to a colder setting for the tub spout and should increase the hot when showering. Personally, I don't like these style valves. Too many problems like yours.
Q:I'm picking up euphonium (brass instrument) after a 5 year hiatus. Can I still use my old valve oil and slide grease (Trombotine)?
Valve oil should be fine. Trombontine is for trombone slides (has a looser consistency than tuning slide grease) and I'd recommend going to the music store and getting some slide grease for your tuning slides, specific for valved instruments. :)
Q:I just want to ask do i turn clockwise or counterclockwise in the pipe main shutoff valve to turn on the water supply?
left to open an right to close piece of cake. (grate now i want some cake)
Q:I heard there are really fine valves, does someone possesses thoughts where to buy these goods? I heard about them on TV. Anybody alive?
Yes, okorder
Q:Hi, this is a part 2 question to the one I posted last night. After turning the water shut off valve on my toilet back on, it didnt start to hammer till about 1 min pasted. When the hammering is happening I look in the toilet tank and see air bubbles coming out of the base of the fill valve and the water coming out of the fill tube isn't smooth and flowing its kinda step wise/ in intervals. I forgot to mention that I live in an apartment, does this affect anything?My official question is, is this an air bubble problem or is it a rubber gasket/ rubber seat problem?This is a new building only about 2 yrs old, so parts can't be that bad right?
First check for a kinked or twisted supply connector hose. You may also have a piece of rubber gasket/washer debris stuck in the valve body (seat washer) or in the fill valve itself (from the connector compression washer). Shut off the water supply at the angle stop and disconnect the supply hose from the fill valve nipple under the toilet tank. Get a bucket and put the end of the supply connector hose/tube into the bucket and open the supply valve again. If it still hammers when unrestricted like this, the obstruction is in the anglestop valve body. The water pressure may force it out, but if it doesn't, you'll have to shut off your main water supply to clean the stop or replace it. If it doesn't hammer when unrestricted, the problem is now in the new fill valve, and is probably a deteriorated piece of the compression washer in your old supply connector hose or tube that has been pushed into the fill valve. Since it's a Fluidmaster, you can disassemble the head of the valve and remove any visible obstruction or just replace the top part.
Q:Surly Pilots don't just switch the fuel selector valve of mid flight
Not to take away from JFK jr's piloting skills but the possibility exists that he failed to check to see if the fuel valve was on in the first place. I do not know how far along in the flight he was, but a typical piston engine plane can get you up and on your way with the fuel that is in the fuel system. Why I know this, my flight instructor while training one of his students died in a forced landing due to engine failure because the fuel valve was not turned on. My flight instructor would allow his students to perform the preflight on there on, of course after many hours of dual training. The plane was a piper four place, it made it to about 400 feet agl before the engine stalled from fuel starvation. The irony of his death was from complications on the operating table from a broken ankle and a blood clot that broke loose. Checking for the on position of the fuel valve is on the check list. During emergency landing procedures, one of the functions is to turn the fuel valve off to reduce the possibily of fire. This doesn't answer the question but is a possibility unless of course he was well into his flight before the accident, in which case he probably moved the fuel valve to the off position following emergency procedures.

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