Q:I own an Audi A4 2001 and my check engine light comes on almost everyday then will go off. The first time it came on was almost a year ago and I had it checked by auto zone. They said it was my cadlic converter.I never got it checked out, so now it‘s coming on almost everyday then going off after the car is parked for awhile. I just found out that I may have a problem with my CV joint as well, so I was wondering if it was my CV joint the whole time making my light come on? Is it possible??

No. Those two issues are unrelated. When the MIL light (check engine) pops on, its only informing you that the computer is getting a reading that is out of spec on any of the electrical sensors that make the car operate in top shape. 9 times out of 10, it is a fault with the emissions system, especially on the Audi A4. Have the CV shaft/half shaft on both sides replaced. Take it to the Audi dealer and have them inspect it. Those idiots at Auto Zone don't know much about cars, trust me, even if they pull a code. Usually they are a generic code anyway. You need the manufacturer specific code to cross reference as a starting point. Your dealer is your best bet. I wouldn't trust any garage mechanic to do the work. Go to the dealer only or a reputable IMPORT auto shop to do the work.

Q:I have a 97 Pontiac Sunfire and just today, like two hours ago, my check engine light came on. I took a look at my fluids and all look ok, but the oil. It is QUITE low to the point to where I‘ll need to stop at the store to fill it up before attempting to drive home from work. It did looks pretty dirty as well. I also made sure my gas cap was quite tight as well. Could the low oil cause my light to come on like that? I‘m only 500 miles late for my oil change.I don‘t notice much in the difference in it‘s performance. It‘s always run a teeny bit rough as it has aged, but it‘s not doing anything out of the ordinary.

Low Oil Check Engine Light

Q:I took my car in for repair on the clutch only. When it was time to pick up my car, they say that my SRS aigbag was on. I know 120% for sure that it was not on when I took it to them. Now to find out my honk and everything related to the front driver airbag is not working. (totally whole different thing). I know they must have done something and the owner acted like they didnt do anything and will do nothing about fixing , they are all in this. I am in the process of filing complaint and would like to know could it possible they done something wrong while fixing my car? I also find out that they put their frame on my back license plate w/out even telling me. Touching other things on my cars. now to think back what could they must done. Please Help??

the act of replacing the clutch should not have affected the air bag system.if you horn is also not working it could have something to do with the air bag clock spring that is located under the airbag in your steering wheel.at this point you air bag system is not working.it will not deploy in case of an accident. your best bet is to take it to the dealer and have them run a diagnostic check.it will cost,but the may be able to tell you what caused it.there are time where just disconnecting the battery will require a set set. as far as them putting a license plate frame on your vehicle,they should not have done that without your consent.in a sense you are advertising for them.

Q:Last Week while I was driving I noticed a small batterie shaped light come on. I looked at the gauge that shows your batterie voltage and it showed normal. Truck acted fine (1997 Ford F250 7.3 diesel), and shortly after (mabe 5 miles or so) the light when off.Last night when I started it I noticed that light (along with the others that come on when you crank the engine), stayed on. I moved the truck about 200‘ and shut it off (light was still on). This morning when I cranked my truck the light stayed on. Then, a few miles down the road, it went off. It came back on about 30 miles later, and stayed on till I got to work (another 8 miles or so). Truck is running fine.I am guessing it is not my regular batterie (since the gauge shows normal), so is it the batterie for the glow plugs?So, I got out my manual and it says if that light comes on, to have the charging system checked? How? Who does that (preferably besides the dealer)? What kind of out of cost am I looking at? Any help?

Could be the alternator or the battery. It is most probably the alternator. You could take it to an auto parts store. They can test it while its running. You will have to find someone reputable to do the work if it need replacing.

Q:I removed the instrument panel on my car to change the lights. I realized that I needed a part so I drove the car, without the instrument panel, to the store (I used a GPS as a speedometer). When I hooked it all back up the air bag light blinks a few times, then goes solid. I have checked to make sure there were no loose wires or connectors near the steering wheel or instrument panel. Would the light stay on because the instrument panel was missing? How can I fix this? The auto parts stores in the area do not have computer scanners that can read the airbag codes.

Jay is right, there's no way of knowing this one without a hands on inspection, could be something as simple as a line leaking fluid, or as serious as a catastrophic internal parts failure. Get it towed to your favorite shop, and see what they say. My condolences for your loss.

Q:i have a 2001 chrysler sebring that the BCM went bad. so I went to the auto salvage and they replaced my BCM. thing is, when i got home i locked up my car as usual. then later i wanted to go to the store, so i attempted to get back in my car when the horn kept beeping and parking lights flashing. i‘m assuming the BCM was original to the 2001 sebring with some anti theft. when i bought the car used from a private person he only gave me a key, no remote or anything, just a key. well turns out that the BCM in there that got fried was the wrong BCM for that car to begin with, thus the BCM frying on me, so anyway. now that the right one is there i need to know how to bypass the system so my horn will stop beeping and i can start my car because my car will start but die immediately i think is due to the anti theft. so how can i get my car at least to the dealership so i can have the remote lock/unlock programmed? any advice? please.

Have you look at the computer it may be bad a bad computer will not let the car start it will crank all day but if the computer is bad it will not start at all

Q:I think there‘s something wrong with my fuel system but I want to be sure because if if not,I‘m out $100 for the test.There is a recall on the fuel system.Here‘s what it‘s doing: I drive a lot of h-way time.About 2-3 months ago I started hearing a loud humming noise coming from the engine.I‘m just driving along with cruise control on even and just out of the blue the engine will begin humming.It‘ll start soft,get louder and then stay at one pitch.When I take my foot off the gas,it dies down and then everything sounds normal,but once I apply the gas, it doesn‘t take but a few minutes and it comes back.I had new spark plugs installed around the time my engine light started staying on for longer periods because it does go off but it doesn‘t stay off for more than one trip,I‘ve always gotten 30mpg and still am.I can‘t afford to be out $100.Does anyone know if this is fuel system related, or not?I‘ve heard Ford‘s are known for bad fuel pumps, is this true?

THE VERY FIRST THING YOU DO IS FREE. Take it to an Advanced Auto Parts store and have them check the trouble code. They will do this for free and it takes less than 5 minutes. This will tell you if that the ECM has detected a problem and it will tell you what it is. If its something to do with your fuel system (i.e. lean mixture) than start with a new fuel filter. They are $7 and take less time to replace than checking the trouble code. The problem also could be an air intake leak.

Q:I had the engine exhaust light come on after a sensor was replaced in the gas tank for the fuel gage. I was told by the dealer that the light comes on when it senses a leak. However, after doing a smoke test they couldn‘t find one. They told me that they turned the light off and now I am worried that they did not put the gas tank back properly. The car was purchased approximately 2 months ago and I don‘t know if I should be worried or not. Any advice based on experience is greatly appreciated.

Sounds like the dealer did finish the job properly. However, to be sure, take the car to a second auto-workshop and have the exhausted system thoroughly inspected (Should be low cost). If you find any faults, take the car back to dealership and demand proper repair. Good luck.

Q:My 2006 Mazda 3 check engine light is on, but not blinking. The dealership said that it‘s not serious if the engine is not blinking and that it is ok to drive. Can anyone else out there confirm this is true? Has anyone else had this problem with a Mazda 3? They say it can be a loose gas cap. And that if i drive for 100 miles it should turn off.

2006 Mazda 3 Check Engine Light Reset

Q:Alero 2003 stalls at light and will not start before 20 or 30 mintues. during this period if i put the key on the on mode airbag light flashes then stays steady, fuel pump relay not getting power, no humming from the fuel pump. also during this period i can start the car with the remote starter but when i press the breaks it dies

it sounds to me like your auto start is bad. when auto starts and aftermarket alarm system brain box fails alot of weird things can happen. id recommend pulling the auto start out or taking it to a place that can properly remove it for you.