Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 17

Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 17 System 1

Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 17

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

Reflects 96% of radiant heat
Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic
Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install
Durable and lightweight
Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate
Vapor and radon retarder
Easy to cut and install
Permanent and maintenance-free
Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents
Does not support the growth of mold or mildew
Not affected by moisture or humidity
Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

Metal & Steel Buildings
Homes
Roof Underlayments
Cathedral Ceilings
Crawl Spaces
Hot Water Heaters
Basement Walls
Floors
Garage Doors
Concrete slabs
Driveway snow melts
Pole barns
Post frame buildings
Poultry barns
Animal kennels
Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

Material Structure: AL/Bubble/AL
Bubble Size:D10mmH 4mm(102.5/104/106/207/2510)choose the bubble size
Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )
Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)
PROPERTIES	TEST DATA	UNIT
Thickness	3.5-4	mm
Weight	250	g/m2
Emissivity	0.03-0.04	COEF
Thermal conductivity	0.034	w/m0
Apparent Density	85	kg/m3
Reflectivity	95-96	%
Water Vapour Transmission	0.013	g/m2kpa
Corrosion	doesn't generate
Tensile Strength(MD)	16.98	Mpa
Tensile Strength(TD)	16.5	Mpa

Q: Should a two story home have insulation under the roof in the big closets ?: Hell yes it should. A lot of contractors skimp on insulation though. Every singe area in your attic under your roof needs fiberglass insulation or you will lose heat and air and your electric bill will be higher. Heat rises and u will lose it fast in the winter if there is just one small spot without it.

Q: I need to call around and find a contractor to repair my roof. I thought it might be a good idea to at least have the name of this type of roofing correct so I don't sound like too much of a mark. Thank you in advance for your assistance.: Cheap.

Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?: You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.

Q: I live in the top most floor of a flat. Is it worth to insulate the roof (from inside) with styrofoam(thermocole) to reduce the airconditioning load. Is it really economical with respect to cost of insulation and savings gained? Any experiences?: if u mean roof as just below the shingles this is not recommended as it will cause the shingles to become very hot and prematurely fail,,the best way to lower the heat in an attic is ventilation,,if u have an attic its best to insulate the floor of the attic and lots of ventilation

Q: weather stripping/ foam strip?: I'm assuming your talking about a ridge cap normally you would seal it in with tar or polyurethane caulk and put your shingles over it

Q: Our end unit 1940&quot;s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?: We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.

Q: I have a split house with an attic where I have insulation on attic floor, but the house seems to be cold still, Can I add insulation to the roof of the attic? If so, any options? Thank you.: No, you want the air to circulate from the soffit vent to the ridge vent or gable vents, whichever you may have. This will prevent mold and condensation.

Q: I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.: Blown in will be the easiest to install, and it also has the advantage of being seamless. It is possible to rent a blower and do the installation yourself, but many inexperienced people who try that end up with a poor job in the end. Call an insulation contractor or two for a free estimate. After the job is done, insist that the installer provide you with an empty bag of the product used, and also ask how many bags were installed. The bag has a chart that will tell you how many bags are required per square foot, so you can have some assurance that the job was done correctly.

Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: We don't know what kind of climate you are in - or the age/construction of the dwelling.......but by standards here, 4 degrees heat loss in 4 hours is insignificant... For comparison.....we have a two-story, 1800 sq ft modern home in Ohio: the windows are triple-glazed (but there are a lot of them)......the walls have fiberglass bats under 1 inch cedar siding.......our ceilings are acoustical tile over plasterboard with about 2 feet of blown-in fiberglass insulation above them. We have a new, Energy Star gas furnace . . . . in cold weather it cycles on&off at least 10 times an hour.....I am sure that if we were to turn it off, the temps would drop more than 5 degrees per HOUR......gas bills about $250 a month in winter. You are fortunate to have so little heat loss in yours.......while the "sawdust looking" insulation doesn't sound very cutting-edge, I can't imagine anything would reduce the heat loss and be cost-effective. If buildings didn't cool-off in cold weather, we'd just heat rocks in the sun and bring them inside !!!!!!!