• Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 14 System 1
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 14 System 2
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 14 System 3
Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 14

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 14

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q:Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q:i am going to insulate my conservatory roof its poly carbon and dirt has got inside so cant clean what can i use its a semi flat roof i thought about using insulation board silver backed your comments will be gratefull
How To Insulate Conservatory Roof
Q:I have 4 pieces (about 50 sq ft) of odd shaped polystyrene foam insulation between 3" and 4" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof. creative ideas anyone?
Use it as insulation in the basement. Place it under the floor along your rim joists above the foundation
Q:im thinking of putting rolled felt paper under my metal roofing would that work instead of the reflective insulation instead?
rolled felt is not going to be as good as proper reflective insulation i dont think it would work
Q:Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
No. The shingles are applied directly to the decking (over felt paper). Nailing through rigid insulation will either cause dips from driving the occaisional nail too far, or the shingles won't be nailed down tight and will blow off in the wind. Insulate under the decking.
Q:How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
What you could do is line inbetween the roof trusses with fibre wool and then fix heavy cardboard sheets over them to keep them in place. Alternatively you could engage the services of a specialist company who will come and strip off your tiles/slates whatever and spray an insulating foam on the inside thus sealing everything in place.
Q:a roof that is built with the insulation covering the waterproof membrain is ?
Not done properly.
Q:what effect does changing the pitch of a roof have on the insulation properties and durability of a roof?
Increasing the pitch will of course result in a larger dead air space therefore more insulation. The greater pitch is also less likely to leak but of course more costly to construct as more material is needed. Install vents at the peaks for more efficiency. Shingles will be less likely to be lifted by high winds with the steeper roof also.
Q:do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
Q:My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.

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