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FAQ

If one of the two metal things on a electrical cord is larger than the other, but the holes in the outlet are the same size so it won't fit, is it okay to force it in?

If the openings in the outlet are actually the same size, this is a very very old outlet. it probably has no ground, ie, it has two connections, not three. But double check it carefully, the difference is small. You can buy an adaptor (see link). But be very careful you orient it correctly. And you should get your house rewired before you have an electrical fire. .

for school we have to do a video on electrical safety and what to do and what not to do in a office (at work) and please give me some ideas to have that arent not to touch a live wire because i already have that idea! thank u and please help me out

1. Don't overload receptacles with too many plugs. 2. Don't cut up extension cords to make them work on equipment they shouldn't. (for example - Don't cut a standard extension cord plug end off, and splice it with a printer power cord, if the plug end of the printer is still good, but the wire is bad. - The cable you splice may not be rated high enough to handle the amperage of the printer) 3. Make sure electrical items aren't in areas they can get wet - A leaky roof, dripping onto a light fixture. 4. Don't run power cords across the path of forklifts, or other vehicles unless they are rated to be able to withstand that kind of traffic. 5. Make sure a qualified electrician does electrical installations - Things can get wired incorrectly and short out, spark, or catch fire if wired wrong. 6. Always use wire nuts, and/or electrical (rubber) tape when applicable when connecting wires together - this prevents loose connections, and prevents arcing or sparks from the live wires touching metal objects or each other. 7. When digging in the ground more than 12 deep, make sure you call the electric and gas companies first - Usually electrical and gas lines (water lines sometimes too) are about 18 below the surface. If you cut or break these, you can potentially be killed if you come in contact with the electrical lines, because the voltage outside of your home or building is considerably higher than the voltage wired indoors. Hope these help!

i mean how much money does the electrical utility consider for load shedding (for 1kilo watt) in USA?

Load shedding doesn't cost the utility company anything. It saves them money when it prevents a system wide brown- or blackout. Load shedding means that the customers participate in a program to shut down some electrical loads in their individual buildings. This might happen whenever the utility grid is in danger of having to produce more electricity than the combined capacity of all the available generating equipment on the system. If there are any costs involved, it might be the lost revenue to the utility from the sales of electricity above the generating capacity or the lost production if one of the customers has to shut down revenue producing equipment.

I have a 1992 F-150 with a 5.0 302 in it. Last week she started going haywire. My battery wasn't holding a charge, my spedometer was bouncing up and down and my mileage read was coming in and out. I had the diagnostics test done from Auto-Zone that tested your battery, alternator, and starter. They said that my alternator had low power output but everything else was fine. My dad (he's a mechanic) said I had to replace my voltage connectors on my alternator. We did that and she acted fine for about a week. Battery was holding a charge, no problems at all. A couple days ago, my battery light popped on and the battery is not holding a charge AT ALL. I constantly have to charge it. Any ideas on what the new issue could be?

Batteries do not hold a charge forever. If there is a power drain somewhere in the vehicle, like when you start the engine or run the headlights or the radio, you have to recharge the battery to keep it topped off. Your alternator should be doing this automatically as you drive. I have no idea what you're talking about Voltage Connectors in your alternator, but if your alternator is not keeping up with the demand of the electrical equipment that is installed in your vehicle, it will continue to draw down the charge in your battery until it goes dead. Have your alternator tested under load, and if it shows low voltage again, it's time to replace your alternator.

if my electrical equipment has a fuse; does that not mean it's protected?is it just the power grid that goes down?

It generally doesn't. The biggest fear is that the electromagnetic radiation might cause an internal power surge knocking out the microprocessors on some satellites, knocking out Satellite TV, Mobile Phones etc. A really serious CME might overload a power grid. We have had several solar flares and CMEs come off the sun so far and there have been no problems so far, the main concern though is for the telecommunications industry that need to look after their satellites.

a small fire that is at the outlet

CUT THE ELECTRIC SOURCE OFF BREAKER MAIN POWER SWITCH THEN USE WATER .OR CALL THE FIRE DEPT.

I received a piece of electrical equipment from China which has a power lead with it. It originally had a 2-pin plug which I have stripped to rewire into a 3-pin UK plug but the wires are blue, black and brown! I am confused now as I thought either blue/black could be neutral or black/brown could be live. Didn't expect blue, black and brown in same wire.

Connect to Live (brown wire) and Neutral (blue wire). Leave the Earth pin in place but unconnected. Make sure that the plug has a 5 Amp fuse in it (these usually have a blue coloured body, 13A fuses are brown). If the wires are not blue and brown then you must make sure that the voltage is correct. UK mains is nominally 230 Volts, the same as the rest of Europe. Blue and brown are the standard European colours for mains wiring. If the razor is non-European then it may be designed for 110 Volts and will be destroyed when you plug it in. If this razor is an old British one it may have red and black wires. These colours have not been used for appliances since about 1968 and so the device will be very old and may be unsafe.

Basically a reptile shop is selling some dangerous equipmet which I have brought. These include a un-ballasted fluorecent bulb unit (some home made unit using a plug a terminal and 2 end caps) (the vivarium looks burnt) (I wonder why :P) and they sold us a second hand starter unit (ballasted) which stank of smoke and had a 13 amp fuse however should have had a max 3 amp fuse. They are very un-knowledgeable about reptiles and the fuse to the starter unit looked burnt on the ends. I'm just worked about the safety of others who buy their equipment from there as I know for a fact most of it's dangerous. They sold me a 30w starter unit for a 15w bulb which I brought from them at the same time, any ideas who to contact about this unsafe store (I'm in the uk) thanks. :)

Trading standards, local council. Local newspaper maybe if you are really unhappy about it they will for sure close the place down