• Solar Submersible Water Pump with DC and AC System 1
  • Solar Submersible Water Pump with DC and AC System 2
  • Solar Submersible Water Pump with DC and AC System 3
Solar Submersible Water Pump with DC and AC

Solar Submersible Water Pump with DC and AC

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
10000 unit/month

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1.  Description of solar pumps. 

CNBM Solar Water Pump is the pumping facility driven by solar energy, which consists of a solar pumping inverter and a pump. Solar water pumps kit is called  solar pumping system combining with solar arrays designed according to different head and daily water flow for application. System is widely utilized for agriculture irrigation,desert control,pasture animal husbandry,city landscaping,daily water supply, etc.

 

In recent years, with the development of photovoltaic products from city application to huge demands of agriculture,pasture,desert areas, CNBM Solar Pond Pump has become the leading products combining photovoltaic industry with traditional industry such as agriculture water conservancy,desert control,daily water supply,city landscaping, etc.


CNBM Solar Pump driven by infinite solar energy, works from sunrise, and stops at sunset, need no connection to grid power nor diesel oil and battery. System can irrigate directly or store water instead of electricity in a reservoir. Solartech Solar fountain Pumps works with sprinkling irrigation, drip irrigation and infiltrating irrigation facilities, can be more efficient for water saving and dramatically lower the cost of using fossil energy.

 

2. Technical Function

1>  High efficient DC brushless motor requires less solar array. Rich social benefits.

2>  Optional centrifugal pump for big flow and helical rotor pump for high lift.

3>  High efficient semiconductor device used in main circuit. High reliability. Up to 98% conversion efficiency  of controller.

4>  Independent intellectual property of dynamic VI maximum power point tracking (MPPT) algorithm. Fast  response  and good stability. 99% MPPT efficiency.

5>  Full automatic operation. Complete protection functions. Integrated with water level monitor to prevent

  overflow and dry running.

6>  Full aluminum alloy case. IP52 protection grade. Ambient temperature: -20~+60.

Product Specifications


3. Specification details. 

1> Flow: 0.4m³/h~22m³/h

2> Head: 10m~210m

3> Power: 0.1~3Kw

 

4. FAQ

1> May we ask if the bare pump or the whole pump system would be all right for you to arrange the delivery?

     The bare pump and the who systems would be all acceptable at your side. A controller will be equipped with the pump freely. Regarding the whole system, we can also make the best solar panels configuration according to your requirements. 

2> Does your controller have the MPPT Function?

     Yes, our controllers have. This would be not a problem. 

3> Can your pump work automatically?

     Yes, it would be the basic advantage of solar water pumps. 

Solar Submersible Water Pump with DC and AC

Solar Submersible Water Pump with DC and AC


Q:Ok, so I have a 1997 3.8 liter ford mustang. I was driving home from work the other day, when temp gauge started to go up. I brought it to mechanic, and he said it was a bad water pump, due to bad antifreeze. So I am getting a new pump, and an antifreeze flush. My question is that since it overheated, will there be any damage to the engine? The temperature gauge never hit the red, and smoke never came out. I had to drive it for approx 15-20 miles when it started to overheat, and the temp gauge was bouncing from hot to normal.
Overheating your engine is never good , but are you certain it was actually overheated or just a loose wire, faulty thermostat or other giving erratic readings.. If the Engine did not SMELL hot, if the engine performance did not change, if it did not overheat to the extreme...and quickly, it was probably NOT the water pump. Too, it probably did not damage the engine if it was overheated only to the degree that you say. I would wonder about the water pump scenario. Is it possible that you were in extended stop and go traffic in hot weather, and/or your radiator fluid was low and basically getting air in the system.? I hope your mechanic is competent and honest, and the problem was as he said. Usually there is NO Question in the symptoms that the Engine is overheated (regardless of gauge reading). The OIL would get very thin and HOT as well. Just wondering. Good luck.. P.S. I just read Avatar Country Boy's response after I submitted mine. He has some good advice too. I would add that if the engine ever overheats and loses water (or needs water) DONT EVER POUR WATER INTO A HOT OVERHEATED ENGINE !!!!! If you got the radiator cap off in the first place without getting scalded or WORSE, if you try to add water it WILL essentially EXPLODE back in your face as it hits super heated cooling system parts, and most likely crack your engine block, and/or warp your engine heads...serious engine damage. Instead, let it cool completely Again...Good luck..
Q:I have a 1969 Chrysler with a new 3 core radiator. It still has the stock water pump and I am wondering if a high volume pump would make it run cooler at higher speeds. It runs hotter when you get off the freeway. I have flushed the system and installed a new thermostat. I also replaced the fan clutch. I am at a loss of why it still runs warmer than the 180* thermostat.
High Volume Water Pump
Q:We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?
Firstly follow the water to find the leak. The two problems may not be related. Assuming the radiator you bought was new, here are you possible problems/solutions. Radiator cap is a possibility. This will be apparent if you chase the leak. If you waterpump is begining to fail, you will generally have water coming from a small hole at the base of the snout where the drive pulley is (on most cars). The only way a hose can affect the ability of the cooling system to function is if the lower hose collapses when running. Check to see that this is not happening. If it is, replace the hose and make sure that the new hose has the wire coil inside to prevent this from happening. You may also have a thermostat problem. If the thermostat does not open, you will definately overheat. You cannot always check it with this method, but a good indicator is to feel the upper radiator hose before and after starting the engine (when warmed up). Before starting the engine, the hose should be fairly flexible and easy to squeeze. After starting, and being warmed up, it should get fairly stiff due to the flow going through the hose. Don't forget that the hose will be over 200 degrees, so be careful.
Q:My water pump is starting to leak. The shops are quoting $250- $300 to replace but I can buy a water pump at the auto parts store and install myself for less than $100 but I don't know what all is involved with this repair or if I should try (my only experience with car repair up to now is recently replacing the alternator). If anyone has done this please let me know what you think. thanks
It's a rear wheel drive car with the water pump mounted on the front of the engine toward the radiator. So if you go to the library any read the chiltons or motors manual procedures on how to replace the water pump, you probably have to remove the radiator fan blade assembly to get at the water pump. Some fan belts will also have to be removed. You can end up doing the job twice if the new water pump gasket doesn't seal properly due to antifreeze leaking out of the engine block while your installing the new gasket and sealer. Park the car with the engine facing up a hill to prevent that. I'd have it done at a shop. It's worth paying a shop unless you really want to get into major repairs.
Q:I tried using my water line with a pressure tank and pressure switch but without a pressure tank I observed that when he pressure reaches 30 psi the motor pump switches off automatically and when we open the faucets to use water the pressure switch turns on again the motor pump.
All that will do is cause your pump to burn out sooner. It will run WAY more often without a tank. The tank allows for a 'range' in your pressure, in other words, the pump will fill the tank to 30 psi, but will not kick on again until the tank gets below a certain level, say 20 psi, at which point it will pump it back to 30 and cut off again. Without a tank, the pump will run whenever you draw water.
Q:What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?
drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do
Q:We're doing some droplet impact experiments and are creating the flow of water to our droplet generators by elevating our source of water. Unfortunately as the water depletes the pressure changes. We need to siphon off the water from our lower basin where the water collects and pump it back up to the source (around 6-8 feet up). What kind of pump do I need for this?
I would think a pump of the type used for garden fountains and ponds would work. They some in sizes many of which are rated in gallons per hour rather that gpm. You can get the any many home improvement centers as well as on line.
Q:Is it a must to change the entire water pump since only driplets of anti-freeze leak out over a 7day period from the bottom of the pump? Can i simply change the gasket and make it all better? Water pump is pumping and making no noise, vehicle isnt over heating.
That drip is from a weep hole at the bottom (Underside) of the water pump it is designed to start to leak when the bearing on the water pump is wearing out. It will need to be changed. IF it is truly the gasket that is leaking then take the cheap insurance while you have it apart and put a new water pump on anyway. It just may be the best time to do so on a 2002 vehicle and could keep you from having trouble later down the road
Q:I think my water pump is leaking and I want to replace it, but I can't figure out how to get the pulleys off. There is a large nut on the shaft that the pulleys are on, and I can't figure out how to remove it, or if the nut is attached to the shaft, and the entire shaft is supposed to come out, or how it's set up. Please help. Pictures would be great if possible. Thanks!
take bolts and nuts off of fan and take off , might have to pry because of rust , corrosion . then take bolts out of the water pump , once all bolts are out , tap with rubber hammer or pry by hand, pump will separate , because of close quarters with radiator be careful not to damage radiator by accidentally hitting it
Q:94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks
problematic point. lookup on to a search engine. that will can assist!

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