QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump

QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump System 1

QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	standard plywood or carton for each QJ vertical submersible deep well centrifugal water pump
Delivery Detail:	10 days after receiving pre-payment

1.Operation parameters :

(1). Flow range : 10-500 m3/h

(2). Lift range : 10-600m

(3). Applicable well diameter : φ175-φ400mm

(4). Diameter scope:φ32—φ203mm;

(5).Temperature range: -15—100°C.

2. Product overview :

QJ series deep well submersible waterpumps are widely used in farm irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, getting water from well, water supply and drainage system for industrial and civil building, water diversion project in hilly and mountain areas water drainage project in at low-lying areas, water supply and drainage in urban and rural's mining enterprisesand various ther kinds of water conservancy facilities. Its features are that the Motor and pump are assembled into a whole, so that it is simple in structure, convenient to assemble and disassemble, easy to use and maintain safe to operate. Otherwise, it covers an small area and does not pollute water.

3 QJ using condition:

(1) 380V voltage deviation is no more than ±5%,frequency is 50HZ, three-phase power deviation is no more than ±1%.

(2) Motor cavity must be filled with water.

(3) The first stage impeller of the pump should be more than 2mm below the moving water surface, pump unit should be less than 70m below the static water level.

(4) The distance from the motor bottom to well bottom must be more than 3m.

(5) Water temperature should be no more than 20°C.

(6) Sand content of the water ( by mass) should be no more than 0.01%.

(7) PH value of water 6.5-8.5.

(8) Hydrogen sulfide content of the water should be no more than 1.5mg/L.

(9). Chloride ion content of the water should be no more than 400mg/L.

(10). Water yield of water source should ensure the requirements of pump continuous working.

4. Material

Impeller: Cast iron HT200,or stainless steel

Pump bowl: Cast iron HT200,or stainless steel,such as ss304 ss3016

Pump shaft : Cold-drawn steel with chrome plating,or stainless steel SS304 SS316

Motor Seal: Rubber O-ring seal,mechanical seal

Motor regulating sleeve: Rubber

Q:For the past couple days my car has been over heating quickly and there ha been some leaking underneath my car. well I went to start my car today to run to the store and the heating gauge was going up and down from overheating to perfectly fine within seconds...I popped the hood and there was antifreeze spraying on the engine. So my friend that I called said that meant there was a leak in my water pump. The autoshop in town is busy with over cars all day, I already called, and there isn't another shop within 15 miles. I work in 3 hours, and the drive is 30 minutes away. I have no other way to get to work, is it safe to drive my car or should I call in and let my manager know I can't make it? I have been working there almost 2 months and have never been late or called in.: The simple answer is five minutes. you may consider a taxi. It's a lot cheaper than replacing an engine for one day.

Q:directions on changing water pump 2001 gmc pickup: Changing a water pump is nothing special, just common sense. Drain the coolant and take apart whatever you need to get access to it. The cooling system is sealed off from everything else (like the oil system or example) so there shouldn't be any nasty surprises. Make sure you get a new set of any seals and gaskets with the new pump. However you may have to take off the timing belt to get at the pump, and you need the proper instructions for replacing that. Usually it is not recommended to re-use the old belt. You might be able to save a bit of money by not replacing any tensioner pulleys etc that should be changed when the belt is changed, depending how old they are. If you can afford the extra time off the road, don't buy replacement parts till you have looked at the condition of the old ones. Unless it is actually leaking water, pumps can last a long time making horrible noises (especailly noises at engine idling speeds), so you might consider leaving the pump till the next timing belt change anyway.

Q:Water pump motor often caused by water can not run, how can solve?: You are immersed in water or oil pump pump, if flooding do not be afraid, if you put oil thread wrapped with waterproof tape, general water pump inlet is in the end, you want what the price of copper or aluminum pumps, the price is basically the same, do not buy too cheap water pump

Q:I am taking my car in for a timing bell replacement. My car is a honda accord 2001 6 cycl. The mileage is 80K still way under the manufacturer recommendation. I am thinking of replacing the oil pump and water pump. I am thinking that since the engine is already opened might as well get this done. I don't know if this is necessary. Are these items even closed to the timing belt area? Does anyone have any recommendation when this should be done ?: Oil pump should be replace when engine is getting rebuild Oil pump at 80k = no Water pump with timing belt is preventive maintnanace thing. To replace water pump require removing timing belt. Most people just go ahead and pay extra to have water pump replace at same time with timing belt. Shop should just charge your cost of parts for water pump and coolant. water pump with timing belt is your call.

Q:I have a 1985 Jaguar XJ6 that runs great, that I was thinking about trading for a 1991 Alfa Romeo 164 that needs a water pump. Just wanted to get feedback from Alfa owners and find out how hard it would be to put a water pump in the car. Thanks: About $130.00 for the water pump (first link below). As for the difficulty, take a look at the second link for a good thread on replacing the water pump on the 164.

Q:We still have water, but it keeps constantly running, and won't stop. The pump itself got warm/hot, and we're afraid that it's going to get ruined or blow up or something. We turned it off for about 30 minutes, then back on to bottle up some water. It's the middle of a snowstorm, and a horrible time for a water pump to stop working, help please!! Any suggestions and fixes, please let me know. Thanks!!! :): You may have a broken water line. The lose of water pressure, even from a small leak, would keep the pump running. A partially frozen intake line would slow the pump down. The impeller inside the pump may be bad and not able to bring the pressure up. You can keep turning the pump off and on as needed until you find the problem. Make sure the pipes are warm to keep them from freezing.

Q:The dry season river dock company from the wharf area maximum height difference of 17 meters, is the need to purchase pumps for wharf surface wash pump water, the pipeline outlet pressure to the ordinary fire water pump pressure standard, the best do not directly into the water, can be placed in the dock or wharf surface from 10 meters (below three terminal position floor, 6 meters on average one floor), to facilitate the maintenance of. What type of water pump is the best choice? What brand is the best choice at home and abroad?! Be deeply grateful！: ZGD1.5KW screw pump, lift 120 meters. Caliber inch. High pressure. Screw type. It can absorb more than 30 meters of water.

Q:I could get a 1994 Camaro, v6, no rust, automatic, excellent condition for $1200. THe ony thing is that it needs a water pump. Is it worth the buy? How much other damage could have been done with the water pump damaged? and how hard is it to replace the water pump?: Tell them you'll give him a thousand and buy it. Check the coolant bottle and look for sludge. Check oil for milkshake looking oil. These motors are known for bad intake and head gaskets and that is not as easy as a water pump.

Q:I live in a condo building -- 3 floors, 7 units. In our storage units (right below my unit) is a water pump that was hooked up with the intent of helping the water flow to the 3rd floor. Everytime the pump goes off, it rattles, then makes a loud noise when it kicks off. The developers created a drywall box that houses the pump, which is surrounded by isolation, but it doesn't seem like it helps the noise. The pump also rattles the pipes that connect directly to the pump.My question is -- is this rattling normal for a standard water pump? If so, is there anything I can do to help cut down on the noise? If this is rattling is not normal of the standard water pump, what would it cost to replace it with something decent?: I do not know the kind of pump you are referring to. I will give my personal expertise. If it is a pump taking water from a tank, the piping might be loose, the knocking may be corrected with some air ventilation pipe. If it is pumping from a water tank: I suggest you look at a submersible pump capable of supplying water to 3rd floor. This kind of pump is less noisy. The noise at start, is the electric starter, and the noise at the end is when water returns and seals the stop valve. Also some air may be in the pipe, you need to purge the pump, as often as needed, try this first, and then the others. Good luck

Q:Pump flow 6M3/H is an hour, how many tons of water?: =1 tons of water 1M3So 6m3/hIt's 6 tons / hour

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