Fluorine Plastic Chemical Centrifugal Pump IHF Series
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- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 300 unit/month
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Introduction of Fluorine Plastic Chemical Centrifugal Pump IHF Series
IHF series fluorine plastic pump is single stage single suction centrifugal pumps, it adopts metal shell lining with fluorine plastic impeller, pump cover ,using metal embedded parts outsourcing fluorine plastic pressure molding. According to international standard ISO2858 design. The product structure is reasonable and reliable performance. Widely used in automobile manufacturing pickling process, acid and alkali manufacturing, painting process, non-ferrous metal smelting, the electrolyte transport project of chlorine ion membrane water and wastewater treatment, electroplating, pesticide industries.
Feature of Fluorine Plastic Chemical Centrifugal Pump IHF Series
---Designed in accordance with ISO2858
---International Standard.
---Cast iron lined with Teflon (F46), ready for corrosive liquids.
---Bellow mechanical seal for shaft sealing.
---Flexible spacer coupling.
Mode Meaning of Fluorine Plastic Chemical Centrifugal Pump IHF Series
E. G. IHF80-65-160A
IH - Single Stage End Suction Chemical Centrifugal Pump
F - Teflon Lined Pump
80 - Suction Dia. (mm)
65 - Discharge Dia. (mm)
160 - Impeller Dia. DN (mm)
Variations: A - Impeller
Material of Fluorine Plastic Chemical Centrifugal Pump IHF Series
1. Pump Casing/Cover: Cast Iron
2. Impeller Frame: Carbon Steel
3. Impeller: TEFLON (F46)
4. Casing/Cover Liner: Teflon
5. Gland of Mechanical Seal :ICr18Ni9Ti
6. Stationary Ring: Alumina Ceramic (99.9%)
7. Rotating Ring: Saturated TEFLON
8. Pump Shaft: 3Cr13
9. Bearing Housing: Cast Iron
Performance of Fluorine Plastic Chemical Centrifugal Pump IHF Series
Flow Range: 6.3 ~ 400m3/hr
Head Range: 5 ~ 125m
Suction Dia.: 50 ~ 200 mm
Pump Speed: 1450/2900 rpm
Fluid Temp.: -20ºC120ºC
- Q:Have a Toyota RAV4. About 156, 000 miles on it.Yesterday as I started driving, there was a sound coming from underthe hood that sounded similar to a stick in bicycle spokes. Got to theend of the block and stopped and noticed there was smoke comingfrom below the belts.Got back to the house and the temp was up really high. No fluid.Added fluid and water and it was leaking, but not from the radiatoritself, but from towards the back of the engine?Might this be the water pump?
- yes..very well maybe waterpump. i sugest you check,and change pump,timing belt,belt tensioner and idler as well..
- Q:I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus and recently had the coolant drained (not quot;flushedquot;, as the mechanic wanted to charge $125 extra for that). Prior to that time I never had a single coolant leak, but since then, I've had the coolant leak out slowly over about a 2 week period of normal stop go traffic. Now the mechanic is saying the water pump is leaking, and that's going to be another $600+ more to fix (over 5 hrs of labor), which I really don't have the money for right now.So two questions.. 1) what could've happened to cause the water pump to suddenly start leaking only after the coolant was drained, when it was fine before that? and 2) should I try using a quot;Radiator Stop Leakproduct? I know people say they can plug up the whole radiator, but if that were the case 100% of the time, you'd think these products would've been made illegal a long time ago.SO realistically what are the chances of it doing more harm than good? I still plan on getting the water pump replaced, it'll just have to be awhile.
- Stop leak does work in some cases but not for a water pump the leak is coming from the seal on the shaft as for it being $600 for a water pump? find another shop as for a pump from a salvage yard? no the seals are most likely dried out they drain the fluids when they salvage a car . what happened to cause the leak? chances are that when draining the old fluid from the system the fluid was thick from age and holding it togather this is common with cooling systems and transmissions as if u wait to long to change its fluid it will cause the transmission to fail. the pump may be 10yrs old time to replace (not for $600) stop leak while has its places wont work on a moving part (IE water pump shaft)
- Q:changed the thermostat. it overheats but cools down a heat bar or two idling at stoplights. i filled up the coolant reservoir when i changed the thermostat, drove it about 2 miles(engine was already up to temp when i started) and it overheated. drove it two miles back going about 35-40 and it never went above normal but was still overheating. checked the reservoir and it was empty. stuffed a hose in it and plugged it up with a towel to force water in to see if it was leaking anywhere, no leaks. while running with the rpms up the top hose is easy to squeeze. makes me think water pump. but if i go over 45 it over heats makes me think clutch fan.
- So if i understand, you are losing water from your system but no evidence of where it is going. I can think of two options. Heater core, but you may get a coolant smell inside the car, steam on the interior of windshield. You can check this by connecting the heater hoses directly, bypassing the heater core. If it still loses water, look for foamy oil on the dipstick or on the oil filler cap. If present then the other guy is right - headgasket. I would also look into flushing the system, or replacing the radiator - it may be clogged.
- Q:I would like to use water from the lake to water my lawn. My lawn is about 100 feet up hill from lake. Just want something I can attach a garden hose to. what type of pump and horsepower do I need.
- With 100ft of rise your probably going to want a deep well pump. Which means 3/4 to 1hp pump. You'll need a 230V electrical supply on a 20 amp breaker possibly 115V on a 30 amp breaker. This means buried electrical. You could try a cheapo pump and just return it if it dosn't work. Try to figure out the real rise from the lake to lawn. If it's a shear drop of 100 ft, sounds like a deep well pump or similiar.
- Q:I replaced the water pump on my 1997 acura cl 3.0 v6 vtec. I set the timing how alldata said to. (Lined up marks on timing drive pulley and both cam pulleys) and put it all back together. Now when I start it the motor runs rough for about 45 seconds then it smooths out but won't rev past 3000 rpm. What are some possibilites it could be?
- Ive seen this before. u replaced the water pump, which means u drained the coolant, replaced the pump, and filled it back up again. When u filled it back up u created big air pockets in the coolant system. Small air pockets are always in the system, but wont cause a problem. Big air pockets cause the engine to idle rough, like its misfiring. Then when u go to press on the gas it stalls, or it wont rev past a certain point. Ive had this problem myself a few times, replacing water pumps and lower radiator hoses. About the best thing u can do is just let the car run and idle for an hour, maybe even 2! Then rev it when its still parked at a higher RPM, just to flush out those pesky air pockets. I know it wastes gas, but thats what i think the problem is. Air pockets are something that most ppl dont think about when they drain and refil the cooalnt components.
- Q:I've always wondered how a water pump moves water through a pipe. A fan moves air by spinning a propeller-like set of blades, but does a water pump work the same way? Or is there some other kind of mechanism inside the pump that draws water from one place and pushes it to another?
- How Do Water Pumps Work
- Q:Can the water from the fire pump enter the roof fire tank? Why?
- This should be divided into two cases, the key depends on the use of your water tank!If you fire water tank roof is a constant pressure water tank fire control system, the requirements must be set on the water tank outlet check valve, which can only flow from the tank outflow, then pump the water can not enter the roof fire water tank.If the roof fire water tank acts as a water transfer tank and uses it to transport water to a higher building, the fire pump water can enter the water tank
- Q:1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)
- When all these pumps were replaced, were they new pumps or remanufactured pumps? It makes a difference in the quality and longevity. Spring for the new pump, preferably from Ford. The impeller problem was on the 2.5 liter V6 Contour, they are plastic and tend to scatter under load. As far as the gauge goes, it is normal on the four cylinder Contour for the hand to be between the M and the L in normal on the gauge. All of the 4 cylinder Contours are like this and the vehicle is not overheating. There is a TSB from Ford concerning the gauge, the TSB number is 98-21-3, the dealer can pull it up and let you look at it.
- Q:mechanic says the bearings are going on the pump, and they might as well replace the thermostat while they are there.my question is he right?do they have to remove the engine to replace either the pump or the thermostat?seems like a lot of $ for a what should be a simple job ($450).thanks for your help!
- Sounds like you really either need to ask the mechanic how much would just the water pump and repair labour bill cost you with the thermostat.I really don't think the extra costs are worth it if such a high bill. One thing you can do is call around on the price of a new pump and then call or check around to find out what a mechanic will charge you just in labour fees and decide from there. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I doubt changing the pump would take any mechanic much longer then 45 to 90 mins to replace especially if they have the right speciality tools.So I'd also check out while comparison shopping the prices on the thermostat but if you do change it I'd install an anti-stick thermostat in it for sure.
- Q:Im looking for a battery powered water pump, or, solo powered water pump that will pump water up about 30 feet up and 30 feet out.I would like to bring water from a pond up to an out house, which s 30 feet away and 30 feet up from the pond.I know water is heavy, but if this thing only moved 50 gallons (a day for solar, at once for battery) that would be enough.Any links to products you have experience with would be appreciated.
- Battery Powered Water Pump
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Fluorine Plastic Chemical Centrifugal Pump IHF Series
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 300 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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