• CHL/CHLKF Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Water Pump System 1
  • CHL/CHLKF Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Water Pump System 2
  • CHL/CHLKF Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Water Pump System 3
CHL/CHLKF Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Water Pump

CHL/CHLKF Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Water Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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1. Description of Horizontal Multistage Water Pumps

  1>Horizontal multistage design with stainless steel stamping welding impeller and diffuser,three different type of choice.

  2>Single phase motor up to 2.2kw,Class F and IP55 motor is standard.

  3>Standard supply for liquid temperature up to 70 degree centigrade,high temperature pump are available on request.

 

2. Application for Horizontal Multistage Water Pumps

  1>cooling water system

  2>agriculture

  3>domestic water supply

  4>general industrial services

  5>washing

  6>enviroment protection

 

3. Performance range for Horizontal Multistage Water Pumps

  capacity: Q up to 32m3/h

  head H up to 110 degree centigrade

  speed: n 2900rpm or 3500rpm

  power: P up to 55kw *2

 

4. Standard material of Horizontal Multistage Water Pumps

  All the parts contact with liquid made of 304 stainless steel on request.The pump head and suction & discharge can be  made of cast iron on request too.

 

5. RFQ

1> What's the difference for CHL and CHLF(T) type?

    CHL pumps have an inlet and outlet chamber which is made by stainless steel. CHLF(T) is just the section type. 

2> Do you have any variable motor for these pumps?

     Yes, we have. For the variable motor, the frequence can be changed as the customers' request. If the range is between 30~50Hz, the fan can be just connected with the shaft. And if the frequency is below 30Hz, then the fan has to have another separated power. The variable speed motor would be used for solar energy or some other similar situation with the unstable power. 

3> How about the Delivery time?

     Actually, this would be depending on the quantity. If it is just small order, 1 week would be fine. For bigger quantity, the delivery would be also less then 20 days. But for the varible speed ones, it will be taking some more time, normally it will be more than a month.  

CHL/CHLKF Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Water Pump

CHL/CHLKF Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Water Pump


Q:Okay, i have a 1997 dodge stratus with a 2.4l motor, recently i was out early in the morning when i heard what sounded like a loud whining noise, i quickly pulled over and killed the motor. Turns out the teeth were stripped off the timing belt and the water pump busted. How much would this cost to get it fixed, and what is the possibility the engine may be damaged? Also would it be worth fixing it, or just selling it for parts? Oh yeah, the car has 176k miles
yes its probably worth fixing ,you shouldn't have no engine damage to it because that one doesn't run an interference engine ,all that should have to be done is new pulleys and a water pump,and new timing belt kit put on it,all of this will cost around 3-400 bucks though for everything,but its probably worth repairing,you cant buy a good car for 400 bucks,and if it ran well before then it should be alright once you get it repaired,good luck with it i own on of those and their good cars.
Q:My Camry is overheating and I am assuming it is the water pump. I already changed the thermostat and that was no help. When I turn the heater on to cool off the engine, it blows cold air or the temp of the air outside most of the time and seldomly hot air. I bought a water pump, but I am not sure if this is something I can do?
Step 1: Find a man
Q:When using a frequency converter to adjust the pump, what is the relationship between the change of the speed and the efficiency of the pump?
The wind pumps such load is usually called square torque load, which is in a certain range of speed and torque is roughly proportional to the square of the speed of N, TL=kn^2, power and speed is proportional to the cube, the energy-saving effect is obvious.
Q:I have a 2002 honda civic with 85k miles the dealer says the timing belt should be replaced. But with the water pump timing belt tensioner also have to be replaced???
The timing belt drives the water pump in your car. To replace the water pump, you have to remove the timing belt. When you are having the timing belt replaced, it makes sense to also replace the water pump. There is very little additional labor to do so, as the timing belt is already removed. You do not have to do so, but if you do not, and the water pump subsequently fails, you will be paying the full labor charge to replace it rather than just the cost of the part. As to the belt tensioner, I would replace that because it is a wear item, and if it fails it can cause a timing belt failure. If you are going to risk the timing belt failing (and causing major damage to the engine) you might as well not have the belt replaced. I would never replace a timing belt without also replacing the water pump and tensioner. It is false economy to do so.
Q:We have 2 1995 E320's that are heating up way too high when running. One has been diagnosed at the repair shop for a malfunctioning fan clutch. They also said that as the car was running hot the water pump and thermostat should also be replaced (??) The water pump is 5.5 hours of labor and I cannot afford it right now. I was wondering how hard to replace it myself. Thanks
I just replaced a water pump on my C Class 220 cdi it cost me ?40 for the pump and under an hour to change it ,but it was gone and you could hear it was gone,so i doubt if its the pump,it may be that the thermostat is jamming ,or if the water is boiling over its much worse it could be the cylinder head gasket but you should definitely get a second opinion and avoid the mercedes dealers they just charge an arm and a leg good luck.
Q:my pump went out and i can't afford to have it fixed at a shop.
then buy a new one and get your self some tools and a repair manual at autoparts store not much to it once you see what it looks like you start removing parts that are in way til you can take it off clean the old gasket off well and but some blue selicone put on new gasket and put on new pump tighten it put back on all the parts you remove fill radiator start check for leaks should be able to do it on the weekend about three to four hours or lless... any of these will help all about the same as the other but it will give you a better ideal of how to do it and your sure to learn more about your car so doing it would be best not only you learn but you save money too... not hard to replace most parts hard part is knowing what is wrong to replace it so you got the hard part done knowing what is wrong
Q:Does the pump accessories have a shelf life?
Yes, 3-6 months for wearing parts, 12 months for general accessories, 10 years for shell type. Specific depends on whether the materials and user use conditions are bad to decide.
Q:i need to know how the water pumps, how it transports, where it goes, and how the structure is used to control the direction of the flow. Please help? I'd really like to know., thank you in advance!
you're saying that your pump used to function precise in the previous, so if the pump is in sturdy situation, the elevate should not be too great so we are able to rule that out. it sounds as though to me that the gurgling sound may well be made by potential of sucking air, and for this to ensue, it would be a concern on the inlet area of the pump. If the guy who repaired the pump is familiar with what he's doing, it won't be the pump, so we are able to rule that out. That leaves the pipe and any fittings between the pump and the foot valve that could desire to be on the top of the pipe. attempt working the pump, and pouring water over all joints and fittings, one after the different, if the pump is working precise, a slurping sound would be heard on the leak. The pump could have a priming factor, a screw in plug, someplace on proper of it. With the pump stopped, get rid of the plug, and pour water into the hollow. you will possibly desire to have the skill to fill the pump appropriate up, and the water stay at that time, without draining away. If it wont hold the water, the valve on the backside of the pipe is the two wiped out or has something like a stone or gravel struggling with it from working precise. As you have disconnected this pump for upkeep, it would have needed priming besides, that's the filling up with water. it is too plenty to ask a dry pump to enhance water any peak, so in step with danger you do not have a concern in any respect. sturdy success
Q:I have a 2005 Mazda RX8 and I was wondering if upgrading the water pump on my car would void the warranty I have with Mazda. I know such modifications such as air intakes and exhaust systems do not void warranty. The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act says Legally, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle. So is it safe to say it's alright to install? Thanks!
You are correct about the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act. Any part that doesn't change the form, fit, or function can be used in place of the OEM part. My question is what is this upgraded pump going to do for you. Does it deliver more water per minute? If you have no other modifications, my wouldn't a stock or exact replacement work for you? If the pump adds water delivery, then they could argue that the water is traveling too fast in the system to effectively cool the engine.
Q:1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)
You could have a pulley that is bent or out of balance. Maybe your cooling system needs to be flushed and its putting a little extra load on the pump. You can check the temperature with an infra red thermometer to tell what the actual temperature of your engine is, then you'll know if your gage is accurate.

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