Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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1.Structure of Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump Description
End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.
End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.
2.Main Features of Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump
• very easy to be installed and maintained
•Back pull-out design
•Driven through flexible coupling
•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.
•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system
3.Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump Specification
Material | Cast iron |
Pump diameter | 350-1600mm |
Flow range | 1~200L/s |
Pressure range | 0.2~2.25MPa |
Motor power range | 1.5~200kW |
Inlet/outlet Diameter | DN50~DN200mm |
Casing | Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Impeller | Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Shaft | ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional |
Shaft Seal | Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional |
Flow rate | 2-1100m3/h |
Head | 2-152m |
Speed | 1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz) |
Working Pressure | 1.6PMa or 2.0PMa |
4.Picture of Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q:I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
- All you need is a new switch. It' the pressure switch that you are refering to and if you have to hit it then it is shot. About $20 - 30 at the hardware store and easy to replace. Be certain to turn off power 1st.
- Q:I need to fit a booster pump to increase pressure from a gravity fed vented solar water heater (uses vacuum tubes).The problem is that the temperature of the water from the solar panel can be very high - in fact it could boil under some circumstances. It's safe because the system is vented.As the quot;solarwater feeds existing water heaters in the house, diluting the hot with some cold prior to the pump with an automatic mixer valve is not really an attractive option as we want to gather as much hot water as possible.Can anyone tell me where to get a booster pump that can operate at up to 100 Deg C, delivering 2 bar pressure and about 25 liters per minute. Thanks.
- Yes you can as per the other answer . Make sure when you do you dont exceed the Gallons per minute of the cellar pump or you will burn up the pump on your house . Also make sure that the pump in your moms house can only pump up to 50 psi . Most well pumps can pump higher but that is the setting on the presure switch You might be able to change the tank and switch in moms cellar to a bigger presure tank and up the presure on the presure switch and cure the problem that way and not work the well pump so hard by turning off and on so often .
- Q:Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?
- On many cars you cannot see the coolant circulating especially at idle. Just because you do not have heat does not mean the water pump, and if your car is not overheating it is probably - I say probably - doing its job. So stop putting thermostats on, probably assume the water pump is okay. So, put a thermometer into the radiator to see how hot the coolant is getting - should be ~180 degrees or so. Hmmmm - Does this car have an electronic climate control system? Perhaps that is the reason you have an intermittant problem. Assuming manual climate control - It could be a vacuum leak to one of the manual vents that is allowing cool air to mix with the hot. Or, maybe the slider from hot to cold is not working. What troubles me is the intermittant problem here. So, I will go out on a limb and say it could possibly be a bad head gasket for reasons I will not get into here. In any case, Good Luck!
- Q:What is the difference between a High Flow Water Pump, Heavy Duty Water Pump or and Electrical Water Pump for a street rod? I have a 77 Camaro with around 410hp with the factory A/C. The Camaro is stock as body, frame and interior. I want to enjoy the car vs racing it. I would like to go on trips to visit family out of town which is around 300 miles and be able to drive the car with out having over heating problems.
- The high flow just moves more water per revolution the a factory pump. Heavy duty could be the same as the hi-flow, while the electric pump does not use the fan belt to turn the pump, it's got a small electric motor to do that. See if there's any difference between hi-flow heavy duty, get one of those.
- Q:About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise coming from my bathroom that sounded like loud humming every 3 or 4 seconds after I would turn on the water or flush the toilet. I noticed that when this noise happened the water pressure would increase and then it would go back to normal. Then the noise started to get louder. Last night while my husband was taking a shower the water lost pressure and then completely turned off. Now I have no water at all whatsoever except for maybe a few drops when I turn the faucet on. I have a private well and when I bought the house I was told that the well is underneath one of my bedrooms because the house was built on to and they built over the well. I know I can get to the pump from the crawl space. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone know what it might be or maybe even how much it could cost to fix?
- Hi. You could have a pressure tank that is in need of replacement or adding air to. The air cushion in the tank has either become compromised or has disappeared completely leaving no air cushion to let the pump build up pressure against. The pump is basically running every time you use even the smallest amount of water and this will basically cause the pump to self destruct. The next thing you may have is a bad pressure switch that is both causing the noise and the pressure variations from the nature of the points being bad. This is not expensive to fix. Under forty bucks. The other fix may run into the several thousands. Sorry. Hope this helps.
- Q:Water pump is STILL constantly running! Since this past thursday, we did:new check valvenew pressure controlnew foot valve (well)well is not dryprime, air pressure are finewe have above ground pump in the basement. we called a plumber and he could do nothing! we have water and pump/tank and everything seem working fine.But the pump is on and off every 30 seconds - 1 minute. It is so annoying and out of ideas what could be wrong.My husband think it could be the tank and suggested that we replace it. But the plumber didn't say anything about the tank. And it is not too old.Do you think it is the tank and we need to replace it? If so, we will do it on this Sunday morning even though it might cost extra charge! please help!!!
- ITS A WATER LOGGED TANK, DONT REPLACE IT JUST DRAIN IT drain the tank, you need the air pocket in the tank. drain the pressure tank completely, let it fill it again, and have an air pocket in it. if it has a rubber bladder in it , the bladder could be leaking and all the air has been replaced with water, drain the tank and see if it feels empty after it is drained, if not the rubber bladder is full of water, new tank is needed. with no air pocket the pump is going to keep cycling on and off. the pressure switch comes on at 20 lbs, shuts off at 40 lbs. the only way it gets the 20 lbs difference is with the air pocket expanding. if all is well, lets say it takes 2 minutes for the pressure to drop from 40 to 20 with a faucet wide open. with no air pocket it will drop from 40 to 20 in a half a second, pump kicks on to pressureize it and its back to 40 in a half a second. pump is on and off, on and off over and over over. with an air pocket it will take the pump several minutes to bring it back up to 40 from 20.
- Q:I was wondering if water pumps make any noise when they are submersed? Also, my pond is quite small and I don't want to scare my fish with a noisy pump. Thank you!
- majority of the pond pumps you get to day are extreamly quiet and wont bother the fish or you at all
- Q:So I need to make a human powered water pump... Does anyone know how to make one? Any websites that could show me would be nice.MORE DETAILS:The pump is on the ground...it needs to pump water from a reservoir into another reservoir that is two meters high and two metres across from where the pump is... The pump needs to be handheld too. What should I use and any good plans on how to make it?
- The simplest manual pump is the lever-arm pump. This is just an elongated cylindrical reservoir, a valve casing, and a pump chamber in a linear arrangement. A piston within the pump chamber is connected to a link, and a handle which is used to pump the water. You can make a simple one by converting an ordinary bicycle pump. Attach an input hose to the air inlet, and an output hose to the pressurized air output for the tire. A good way to develop plans on how to make it would be to visit your local sporting shop or auto parts shop and look over their pumps. .
- Q:water pump contents
- contents no, replace component.
- Q:Why should the water pump be opened in time after the pump is started?
- There are many kinds of water pumps in power plants! Single-stage centrifugal pumps generally do not open in time, with the valve opening current increased! Multi stage centrifugal pump should be opened in time, otherwise it will lead to fever due to compression of liquid! With the valve opening, the current will increase! Single stage axial flow pump usually open the valve open, with the valve opening, current changes little or fall!
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Bare Shaft End Suction Centrifugal Water Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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