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FAQ

I am planning to build a wooden wall in my crawlspace. It is a large, dry space and would be great for storage. The wall would be about 6ft x 32ft and would run along the inside of the cement foundation. Can I attach it to the cement foundation or to the wooden beams running along the top? Or does that cause weakening of the foundation or other problems. If I can't, does anyone know a good way to make the wall sturdy without attaching it to anything (I just want to attach some peg board and shelving to it). Thanks for any advice!

Wood against the cement wall is not a good idea. Moisture from the ground usually seeps in through concrete, and evaporate from the floor. and the wood will soak it up, grow moldy and rot. If you are planning to use it for storage the best course of action would be to encapsulate it instead. That means lining the whole crawl space, floor and walls with a 20mil poly sheet (like a pool liner) specially developed for this purpose, and then install a conditioning system to blow air from the upstairs into the crawl, keeping it dry. Besides protecting your crawl space and stored items from moisture, termites etc... encapsulation makes your whole house at least 18% more energy efficient. It is recommended by the US Department of Energy's Building America as Best Practice. I am adding the link to Advanced Energy website. There you will find videos explaining the process and a ton of studies conducted by them on crawl spaces, as well as to another website about Crawl Spaces.

Ferro-cement was the quot;inquot; material to make a boat hull from, and my father was quite taken with the idea behind it. Time and my father have passed, and I am wondering if it is still a viable building material. thank you for your responses.

If made by a professional, the concrete hull has lots of advantages over its FRP cousin. The concrete gets harder as time goes on. The first one made in the 1860's is still afloat. Cement does not blister or delaminate. The weight can be a read advantage when sailing in choppy seas as it will plow through waves that will stop a lighter vessel. If one should encounter a situation that would hole a FRP vessel, the ferro will cave in like an eggshell. Kick it back in shape, slap some fresh cement on it and off you go. Down side is dealing with marinas. They think that you will come flying into your slip and destroy the dock. As long as you are aware of your extra weight and adjust your maneuvers there should be no problems.

Why will quarries (cement factory places) reduce carbon dioxide emissions?

Cement plants - not so much the quarries (although their motorized industrial vehicles will also have to start improving performance). The production of cement starts with limestone (CaCO3) plus some additional bits to provide Si, Fe and Al. The whole lot is put into a rotating kiln that roasts the mixture. CO2 off-gases, leaving high-temperature Ca-Si-Al-Fe-O compounds that form the clinker for portland cement. Because modern (and developing ) societies use huge amounts of cement for construction uses and buildings, roadways, bridges, airport runways ... - enormous amounts of limestone are roasted, releasing CO2. Look at the molecular/atomic weights, and you;ll see that 44% by mass of all the CaCO3 that is treated will report to the environment as CO2. Mark L.

Firstly, regarding concrete testing, is Mass Per unit Volume and Unit Weight of concrete the same? (they've both got the same unit kg/m3)In the lab of concrete testing, I was required to calculate the cement content (kg/m3), aggregate content (kg/m3) and free water content (kg/m3). I have the weights of cement, aggregate or free water, however, I don't have the volume of the concrete. How can these be calculated? Can someone please enlighten me? Thank you very much.

ok you need the weight of cement, fine and coarse aggregates, and water. then you will need the density of each. for cement, the number varies between 2.8 and 3.1. For aggregates, I'm not sure, I guess it's around 1.7. water is 1. you can consult a good book about concrete technology. I have portland association book. But most of my friends use Neville's.

I'm tiling a kitchen w/ a plywood subfloor. Is that metal lath reasonable to use or do I need to apply a cement board?

We usually use cement board. It has marks for screws.

I am putting in a small 12'x60' mobile home on the new property I just bought, to use as an office for my farm. Would I need to put a cement pad in for the home to sit on? Would it need to be the complete size of the mobile home i.e 12x60 or could I use smaller pads just where the wheels are going to sit?

Cement Pad

I know it's mostly different names for the same thing, but there must be some differences. It might have something to do with adding sand and/or rocks to make a mixture, but I'm not sure.

1 part cement + 3 parts sand = mortar. Add 3 parts grave and you have concrete. Depending on the type of construction you are doing.

(in pounds)

I think there needs to be more data. For example, how much volume does one pound of cement fill....or something like that in order to complete the equation.