Three Ram BOP of High Quality with API 16A Standard
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
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1. Structure of Three Ram BOP Description
The ram preventer is designed and produced according to API 16A standard with different size of blind rams, pipe rams and shear rams. In order to saving time of replacement gate valve, variable ram designing put into use.
High-grade ram rubber core and side flange sealing can meet the extreme circumstances, such as high and low temperature or acidic conditions.
The housing of BOP is made of low alloy steel forgings or castings. Chemical composition, mechanical properties and forming process conform to the requirements of standards.
2. Main Features of Three Ram BOP
Ram preventers supplied by us are classified as two kinds of structure, Cameron and Shaffer type. The Cameron type preventer changes ram by hydraulic way, which is safe, reliable, and easy to replace the ram.
3. Three Ram BOP Images
4. Three Ram BOP Specification
5. FAQ of Three Ram BOP
We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：
①How about your company？
One of the leading manufacturers and suppliers specializing Oilfield products in China, mainly offering various of oilfild products consists of our one-stop sales. The integrated sales & service ensures customers with various demands an easier access for purchasing management.
②How to guarantee the quality of the products？
We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.
③How long can we receive the product after purchase?
In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible.
- Q:What is the specific use of an angle valve
- I okorder /... I hope that I adequately answered your question. Wingman
- Q:Need some info. Ok, four valves per cylinder is better than two valves per cylinder. Fine, why did Ford REVERT to only 3 valves (my guess is to save cost SOHC)? Audi and VW are using five valves per cylinder on some cars, does this offer any advantage over a four valve engine? Maserati even experimented with a six valve per cylinder!!!! (see link) http://www.maserati-alfieri .uk/alfier... but abandoned it (my guess is cost again?) Why are we stuck at four valves or would more valves actually render more horsepower? Pop some ideas best answer to reasonable answer...
- Think of an engine as an air pump - obviously, we want the least amount of restriction for the incoming air and also the least amount for exhausting the compressed air. The ideal situation would be to remove the head during the intake stroke and put it back on during the compression stroke, but, obviously, this isn't possible. On a naturally aspirated engine, the intake is the most critical because the air is moved only by a relatively small difference in pressures. The exhaust stroke, on the other hand, is aided greatly by the super heated temperature and rapid expansion of the gasses. Two intake and one exhaust valve seems to be the most practical and efficient solution - adding more vales means smaller valves and an increase in the overall complexity. I seriously doubt that Maserati ever abandoned ANY automotive idea due to cost restraints. It's far more likely that adding more valves than three or four simply resulted in diminishing returns. Sometimes the allure of a new buzz phrase is nothing more than a marketing ploy - a 16 valve, DOHC, four cylinder engine, for example, is a pretty impressive resume for an engine, regardless of whether it actually is the optimum performance set up or not.
- Q:We've got a one-handled faucet for the tub/shower and it has that pressure-balancing mechanism. We have it set, I think, so that we can take the hottest showers possible, because our water heater lacks enthusiasm. However, when I want to draw a bath for the baby, I need it to be lukewarm - and I have to turn it almost OFF to get the water to be even tepid. I can't get cold water out unless it's only trickling. As far as I can tell, our cold water pressure isn't different from the hot (bathroom faucets are 2 handles and H C seem to be about the same pressure). Is there a way to adjust the valve in the shower so I can get both the hottest possible, and the coldest possible water at full pressure?
- the new single handle tub and shower valves all come with a scald guard mechanism.(its code so kids cant turn on the hot and burn themselves). take the handle off and mess with it. it will be grey or black with a bunch of grooves on the outside. keep adjusting it till it satisfies you.
- Q:ok im 17 and had really bad chest pains for like 2 years and the dr told me last year my valve was leaking and the pains have been getting worse what should i do?
- Skip the primary care physician and go straight to a cardiologist who will do a heart sonogram and run other test and therefore will be able to deal with your issues at hand. I have Mitral Valve Prolapse and I only knew this through a heart sonogram.
- Q:Water has been seeping out of the sprinklers closest to the anti-siphon valve. Water seeps out of the sprinkler even when the anti-siphon valve is manually closed and not connected electronically. I opened up the anti-siphon valve to inspect the diaphragm, but there is no debris nor it was damaged. To be sure, I switched the diaphragm chamber of the two anti-siphon valves (a suspected leaky one and another good working one), but leak persists from the same sprinklers. I think the leak is from the (float?) rubber seal at the bottom of the stem closing the inlet valve. My anti-siphon is a Hardie (or Irritrol) model 311A series.1) Is my troubleshooting and logic correct? What other components could have contributed to the leak described? 2) At what scenario will water be flowing out of the anti-siphon cap?3) How can I determine if my anti-siphon valve has a vacuum breaker? What is a vacuum breaker good for?4)Which brand makes the most reliable anti-siphon valve?
- Sprinkler Anti Siphon Valve Leaking
- Q:This trumpet has been in storage in its casing untouched for about 5 years. I took it out and tried to play it but only air comes out and no sound. The 2nd and 3rd valves are hard to push down. What do I do to fix it? Thanks!
- take the valves out and lightly apply some vegetable oil to free them up.
- Q:1990 5.7l with a .470 lift cam , is there going to be a clearance issue between the valve guide and the valve. Is the rocker going to bottom out on the guides and bust my heads.. If so what should i do.
- I don't think you know what you're asking. Clearance between the valve and the guide is necessary for lube and alignment of the valve. Not too much though or there becomes an oil burning issue. Are you asking if the cam is going to move so far as to make the rocker tip down and hit the top of the guide? If so, do the math.
- Q:I know nothing about toliets - so please bare with me. The water valve underneath my toliet is dripping and I have to turn off the water in order for it to stop. It's really annoying to have to turn the water on when I want to flush it and have to empty out the container that is catching all the time. I think it has something to do with the valve itself and I'm PRETTY sure something behind it needs to be tightened - Has this happened to anyone else? What did you do?
- You can usually see the water coming out between the packing nut and stem. If it is not the packing nut, sometimes water will trickle down from the connection at the commode and appear to be leaking from the valve. Both leaks will stop when you turn the valve off.
- Q:Chev 350 in marine use. Made horiffic exhaust noise, especially with increasing throttle. Cam seems fine still, but the rocker on #5 exhaust was somewhat off to the side but still touching the side of the valve stem...but stem bent. What would cause this and is this the cause of the loud combustion sound (like a spark plug out of it's hole?
- You have several problems here! First of all lets dispense with the marine part, -- which is mostly cooling system conversion! A bent valve -- probably reason for popping, - it is most likely bent inside from striking (being struck) by piston with some possible small piece of metal between top and valve, -- this could be a simple as a piece of broken piston ring, or maybe a screw or nut that has fallen down in intake system some time,- and just now sucked into combustion chamber! Clearance between piston and head not really large when piston all the way up! In order to repair, you need to remove the head and have valve taken out, -- which will probaly require new valve guide replacement! As for rocker arm, it may or may not be involved in actual origional problem! I would have head all checked over to make sure that it is ok,-- as foreign objects inside engine can ruin head also! Now if this is a high time engine, It might be a good idea to pull other head off also, as you have to remove stuff on top and intake manifold to get other one off again, -- (if it has problems later)! The loud noises may have been piston still banging on valve, -or exhaust gasses popping out when ingniton occoured because of valve not seating, -- you could also have bent intake valve, just not as bad, -- and gas popping back out through intake system also!
- Q:I have a rainbird Sprinkler system. One of the zones the sprinklers do not pop up. Someone said maybe the valve is stuck closed from the winter. How do you open and close the valve manually to loosen it back up. and where would this valve be located in the little green junction box near where the zone starts????
- they dont really stick from the winter. i would say if the valve has a problem the diaphram needs replacing on the inside of it. ( all you have to do is find the same kind of valve and take the old parts out of the valve and replace them, the top, and the solenoid with the new valve's parts. they can be anywhere in your yard. ive even found the valve boxes buried under bushes. some installers don't put them in boxes, they just bury the valves. if you know where any of the green boxes are open the lids and see what's inside. sometimes more than one valve will be in a box. turn the solenoid on the valve. ( this will be the peice that the wire are connected to on the valve. dont turn the solenoid too much or it will come out. just a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn or so maybe a little more or less. and when you find the valve that turns on the zone 8 that is not working that is the valve for that section. you may even be able to hear the valve trying to come on when the timer shows it is running. if not, then check for power at the valve. if no power. there is a short, bad connection, or bad module in the timer. if power- replace just the solenoid first. if that doesnt work rebuild the valve. if you have no luck finding the box with zone 8 in it then try a few tips. get a screwdriver and poke around where some other valve boxes are. they may be close together. use a wire locator or hire a professional to locate the valve and show you how to repair it. to manually open and close the valve- open upthe solenoid like i said. or use the bleeder if the valve has one.
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Three Ram BOP of High Quality with API 16A Standard
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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