• Roofing Insulation Rock Wool Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22 System 1
  • Roofing Insulation Rock Wool Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22 System 2
  • Roofing Insulation Rock Wool Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22 System 3
Roofing Insulation Rock Wool Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22

Roofing Insulation Rock Wool Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 22

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q: Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q: does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
I partially disagree with the previous answers. Ventilation does help tremendously BUT in the winter a high R value keeps the heat from going through the ceiling through the attic to the roof heating up any snow on the roof which causes ice & ice dams to form, which in turn will shorten the life span of your roof.
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
Without important points related to what's between the roof and the ceiling below it, regardless of if it can be a one story or two story constitution; fast fix maybe relative? If for illustration,,,and that i have got to anticipate this, that some insulation exists in an attic, crawl space, and so forth. Then absolutely that must be checked for an "R" ranking, and decide to add or change. Possibly the "venting" variety fixtures usually mounted are either absent of now not strictly realistic. Perhaps historic time approaches like attic exhaust fanatics perhaps employed? What is the constitution of your roof to the point the place under roof vents, soffit and facia exist? Without figuring out the substance of the structure, IE: Block, body, and so forth., you could try to check if correctly the partitions are insulated, and strive exchange in that also. A extra ordinary repair, however absolutely now not rapid can be to have timber blocking and shading where the solar does strike the apartment. Windows within the direction of the solar can be tinted, as they provide no, actual insulating properties. Awnings over windows on the exterior might support in small measure. I are living in primary FL. And happen to very so much experience sun and warmness, however certainly it could actually reason financial budgetary issues. There are numerous methods you could attempt to block the sun, or insulate the apartment, and all is also legitimate, even along side the others, however speedy is, as I mentioned, relative to how much effort and money you have got to put into the effort. Steven Wolf Went back to CEMENT in the original. Is the ROOF cement as well? Is this in fact a "apartment" or apartment constructing? Is the "cement" "POURED" concrete panel building, or is it "block"?
Q: I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.
Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.
Q: i live in a tropical country and i need to insulate my roof to block off the heat from the sun...which insulation would best help me? aluminum foil with foam, real foil with foam or PE with foam? pls help...thank u so much!
look into a product called "Snow Roof". You roll it on like paint and it will lower inside temp 10-20 degrees.
Q: I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.
Q: If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
You will normally install both insulation and a vapor barrier, like a house, these go above the ceiling, but NOT the underside of the roof. Yes you should install vents, you need the air movement.
Q: I added a screened room to my mobile home. I also have vinyl windows. in the summer the sun beats down on the home almost all day Someone told me I could have insulation installed in the roof panels, and that i may even be able to do it myself. Right now it's impossible to enjoy my patio between 1-5pm because it so hot you can't breath. I'm in the Pasco, FL area - 34667Appreciate any help you can give
Mobile home refoofing, I had it done, and they did it in one day. They came and installed 2inch foiled insulation right over the existing roof. Then they installed new roof panels..Unbeliveable how much cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. It will pay for itself living up here in the Northeast..
Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
You could have foam roofing installed over the existing roof covering. Look up "foam roofing" on the Internet.
Q: What is the difference between roof and loft insulations?
Potentially that the roof itself is insulated on the underside. A loft insulation could be that the base or floor of the loft/ attic is insulated. Otherwise, I'm not sure.

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