• Buy Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 2 System 1
  • Buy Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 2 System 2
  • Buy Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 2 System 3
Buy Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 2

Buy Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 2

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q: How do I find roofers who are specialised in protection against invaders from outer space. I called 10 and they said they would call me back, but no one did so far. It must be really complicated.
This is a complete myth. I am quite frankly surprised that anyone still believes all this nonesense about aliens. I think you have watched too much t.v. You shouldn't believe every storie you hear from every drunken hill-billy that claims to know about aliens. The truth is that there is nothing at all you can do to stop the aliens from observing you. Even if you wear an aluminum hat they will still be able to observe you whenever they want. The government knows this and put about the foil story to give people hope that something could be done. We are being sold out by the elite members of the world order who really run the world. They are selling us to aliens to run tests on and experiment on in exchange for vastky enhanced life expectancy of our human rulers. It has been going on for years. Some of the people who hold the real power of the world are over 2000 years old and have been working together with the aliens to shape our development, both physiologicaly and socialy. They know that no one will ever believe the truth so they can do what they like. All the major events of the world in the last 2000 years (possibly much longer) have been shaped by aliens working with an elite group to conduct massive experiments with millions of people over long time periods. Hope this helped. I don't think I'm in danger telling you all this because to them I am insignificant although they will undoubtably be aware of what I have said to you as soon as I press "send". I have to go as there is a suspicious looking man watching me from a car across the way. Good luck.
Q: My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
Loose fill cellulose can be blown into your attic. I don't know if I understand the protrusions that you are describing but if you can freely blow the cellulose fiber into this space it should serve as a good insulation. You don't want to poke it in with a stick because you don't want to compress it. If you cannot blow this product directly into the space, you would be better off stuffing it lightly with fiberglass batting. Just don't cram it too tightly. It needs to be loose to be most effective.
Q: Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
I think you'll get more bang for you buck just going with the radiant barrier and having a continuous ridge vent.
Q: I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
Nope. The DOW rigid insulation is an R-5/inch. So 4 inches gets you an R-20. Sorry.
Q: what effect does changing the pitch of a roof have on the insulation properties and durability of a roof?
The pitch of a roof has zero effect on the r-rating of insulation. Proper ventilation of the attic space, whether steep or low pitched, simply provides the optimum environment for the r-factor of the insulation to do its job more efficiently. Any attic, regardless of pitch, if it is not properly ventilated, would stress the effectiveness of any insulation product unnecessarily. The durability of the roof is not adversely affected either.
Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.
Q: p/t deck on a commercial rubber roof do we need closed cell insulation under deck to protect rubber?
First I would put some walk pads down, I don't know if you can purchase them at your local home center. There should be a specialty store that sells vinyl siding they should have them they are about two foot by two foot rubber squares that have dots on them they look like suction cups. Place these pads dots down so that water will drain under the pads, then place a piece of 2" x 8" about 16" long of p/t blocking on top, this will help transfer the load of the deck on the rubber walk pad on the rubber roof. Place the pads and blocks where ever you place your 4" x 4" s You are now ready to start framing the deck. GOOD LUCK!!!
Q: please help..
Both fiberglass and asphalt products are harmful to your health. Stick to brands like Raamat, Secondskin, and Dynamat.
Q: The distance between knee wall and attic ceiling is about 6 foot. Could I push a perforated pipe between the rafters?
That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.
Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.

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