Printing Steel of All Size and All Color

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
100000 m.t./month

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1. Description of the Printing Steel

Printing steel plate is the product based on the metal sheet, of which surface is finally installed of the plastic film (PVC,PE) in addition to being firstly covered with the coating and printed ink in .The coated layer of printing steel plate consists of printing steel plate consists of chemical and filming layer, primer coated layer, pattern printed layer and surface coated layer. The top and back coating shall generally be the application of the weatherproof paint, as well can be the application of the paint with special capabilities such as stain-resistant, self cleaning capability, high thermal resistance, antistatic capability, sterilizing capability, finger-print prevention and etc.

2.Main Features of the the Printing Steel

High hot reflectance

Good manufacturability

•Beautiful appearance

Surface coating

Cost-effective

3.Printing Steel Images

Printing Steel of All Size and All Color

 

4.Printing Steel Specification

 

Available Specification

 

PRINTING STEEL

 

BASE MATERIAL

HDGI,ALUZINC,CR

GRADE

SGCC,DX51D,ASTMA653,EN10142,S350GD

THICKNESS

0.20-0.80 mm

WIDTH

600-1250   mm

ZINC COATING

60-200 g/ m2

PAINT

PE,PVDF,SMP,HDP

COILED

508mm

 

COIL WEIGHT

3-6 mt

 

Main Test Standard

PRINTING STEEL

TBENDING

0-3T

PENCIL HARDNESS

≥2H

IMPACT

≥9J

MEK(TIME)

≥100

SALT SPRAY

≥720HR

ACID STABILITY

Dip in 5%HCI liquor for 300hr,no bubble,no color change and no peel-off

ALKALI RESISTANCE

Dip in 5% NaOH liquor for 300hr,no bubble,no color change and no peel-off

 

5.FAQ of the Printing Steel

 

1.What advantages do your products have

Firstly, our base material is of high quality, Their performance is in smooth and flat surfaceno edge wave good flexibility.

Secondly, high quality zinc ingoats, 97.5% zinc,1.5% silicon,1% others, the same zinc coating measured by metal coating thickness or by zinc weight

Thirdly, high precision: Tolerance strictly according to ASTM or JISG standard even more rigid.

We have full stes of testing equipment(for t best, cupule,chromatism,salt spray resistance, etc) and professional engineers.

 

 

 

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Q:Steel Wool + 9V Battery Question...?
What's happening in the first case is that the initial contact of the wire to the steel wool is not very good and there is a high resistance as the touch is made and there is probably a slight spark that starts the steel wool burning. Now it is even harder to make good contact and the process continues. In the second case there is initially a good contact to the steel wool and there is no spark when the circuit is completed at the battery. It would be difficult to cause the heating and the spark at a distance unless you had a way to remotely cause the wire to lightly touch the steel wool. A gas lighter which uses a flint to create a spark is good for igniting a gas burner which will continue to burn by itself, but probably wouldn't cause the steel wool to burn without the energy coming from the battery to keep it going. Steel wool WILL continue to burn if it's in a pure oxygen atmosphere. You might try hooking the battery up to the steel wool as in the second case and using a spark lighter to start some burning close to one of the wire connections to see if the extra battery power might keep the burning going.
Q:Steel Barns..........?
Steel barns in the USA is the going fad; they are both strong and economical; and some companies offer DIY kits
Q:Which wheels are better? Steel? or Aluminum? and Why?
Steel rims are stronger and will endure more abuse and curb scrapes. Aluminum rims are lighter and give the car a better ride due to less unsprung weight, but they require more maintenance and are easier damaged. I guess the final decision is up to you.
Q:advantages and disadvantages of steel structure?
Disadvantages Of Steel
Q:What is the difference between steel toe boots and composite toe?
steel toe boots are just that a piece of steel fitted over the toes, composite toe boots use other materials that are just as hard BUT they do not have the connectivity levels as steel. if you are working in a cold climate steel toes will freeze them toes right off, also electrical environments. my advice get a good pair of composite ones, and you get what you pay for, its worth the investment. more than you could ever imagine. proper foot support. helps legs cramps, back pain etc...
Q:What is so special about Japanese steel?
After WWII, The United States in order to help the Japanese get back on their feet, sent over the equipment needed to make the newest types of foundries available at the time. While this was a big boon for the Japanese, this meant that most of our foundries were using the older technologies. Japanese Steel then had a bit of a edge on purity than ours did and when you have a purer steel, you have a better product. Since then, they've stayed at the top of the game when it comes to steel. Not only because of the equipment which we have caught up with them on and stay with them on, but because they also have a stronger tradition regarding steel. They have made quality steel blades that were decades ahead of what the West could produce. So you couple that quality of metallurgy with modern techniques we gave them, they took steel making and and ran with it to be one of the top steel producers in the world. Don't get me wrong. We in the US can make Steel as well as they can. But we have ranges of steel. You can get a steel tool that is as good as a Japanese offering (if not more so) but at the same time you can also get a steel tool that is well...Dollar Store crap that'll break if you look at it wrong. While their best may not be better than our best, their worst is often far better quality than our worst. Their lower end products are often our medium grade tools and blades.
Q:acrylic vs. steel tapers which is better?
Steel is better. Acrylic is porous so isn't as suitable for piercing jewellery as steel. Steel can also slide through easier for some people, acrylic isn't quite as smooth. For tapers it doesn't make a huge deal of difference as they're only passing through your ear briefly, not being worn as jewellery, but if they're close in cost anyway then go for the steel. And the plugs you insert after putting the taper through should always be steel, titanium or glass until your stretch has healed.
Q:Is Tungsten Carbide steel?
Tungsten is not steel. Tungsten is a chemical element. What they do is add an alloy mixture to tungsten and it turns into Tungsten Carbide. You want to find a ring with a nickel alloy, some manufacturers cheap out and add cobalt instead. Make sure the ring you buy does not contain cobalt. Steel is an alloy consisting mostly of iron, with a carbon.
Q:damascus steel knife making?
Here's what you need, the cable should be a minimum of 9/16 with large wires. You need some borax (20 mule team from the store). A good hot coal, coke, or gas forge. If the cable has fiber rope in the center it will need to be removed. Fuse the ends of the cable to keep them from coming apart. I use my welder and while I'm at it I weld a handle to make it easier. Heat it in the forge when the forge is properly heated, rotate it. Some people will burn the oil out, but I've found that the forge does that just fine. Rotate the cable while it's heating. When it begins the turn red pull it out and sprinkle the borax over it, don't hold back use a lot. It will begin to melt and bubble into the steel. Put the cable back in the forge, rotate and watch. This is the critical part. When the steel starts to turn from orange/yellow to almost yellow/white take it out and lightly (I use a 2lb hammer) begin hammering the cable into a square or rectangle. If you do it right you'll notice that it will begin to fight the hammer, that's when you know the weld it taking place. You'll have to repeat the process down the length of the cable. Once you have the billet made you can begin the process of shaping the edge and tang. Once you have it shaped, follow proper forge procedure then grind all the yuck off and finish shaping. Then harden and temper and finish it out. Good luck. I almost forgot a very important part. Befor you start hammering put the cable in a vice while at welding temp (if you are strong you can use a couple of plyers) and twist it tight. On the next heat hold the cable in your left and and lay it on the anvil. Concentrate on your light hammer blows being on your side of the cable. This forces the cable strands together. If you are using smaller cable like 9/16 you can double the cable up and weld two peices together, it is easier and makes for a prettier blade. Doing this you don't have to worry about twisting the cable and you can hit it much harder to start with.
Q:Steel or nylon strings?
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