Pre-painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Sheet Coil with Prime Quality and Lowest Price in Blue

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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1.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Description

Pre-painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil with GI or Aluzinc as base metal,after liquid dope with several layers of color 

 

2.Main Features of the Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil

• Superior workability

• High strength

• Good visual effect

• Good capable of decoration

3.Detail Images of Pre-Painted Galvanized Steel Coil

Pre-painted Galvanized/Aluzinc  Steel Sheet Coil with Prime Quality and Lowest  Price in BluePre-painted Galvanized/Aluzinc  Steel Sheet Coil with Prime Quality and Lowest  Price in Blue

 

 

 

4.Quick Details of the Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil

Standard

ASTM ,EN,JIS

Grade:

CS,DX51D+Z,CGCC

Thickness

0.16mm-1.5mm

Place of Origin

China(Mainland)

Brand Name

Type

Steel Coil

Technique

Galvanized/Aluzinc

Surface

Coated

Application

Roof panel

Width

900mm-1250mm

Length

Coils

Zinc Coating

30g/m2-275g/m2

 

3) APPLICATION OF PPGI/PPGL (Prepainted Galvanized/GalvalumeSteel Coils) 

 

Construction

Outside

Workshop, agricultural warehouse, residential precast unit, corrugated roof, roller shutter door, rainwater drainage pipe, retailer booth

Inside

Door, doorcase, light steel roof structure, folding screen, elevator, stairway, vent gutter

Electrical appliance

Refrigerator, washer, switch cabinet, instrument cabinet, air conditioning, micro-wave oven, bread maker

Furniture

Central heating slice, lampshade, chifforobe, desk, bed, locker, bookshelf

Carrying trade

Exterior decoration of auto and train, clapboard, container, isolation lairage, isolation board

Others

Writing panel, garbage can, billboard, timekeeper, typewriter, instrument panel, weight sensor, photographic equipment

 

 

5.FAQ

 1. What’s the application of this product?

 surface sheet of balcony, frame of window, etc.

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Q:Titanium or Tool Steel?
I would have to say titanium , but in doing so I am having to assume you have access to some very serious machinery.This is because Ti is extremely difficult to work and also work hardens, which could lead to cracking and failure.The other problem is that Ti is also very hard to weld .It seems tool steel is the choice for ease of working and weldability, so unless you can buy the bits you need precut or made then I'd say tool steel,preferably something along the lines of ramax.Your other option is spring steel as this is workable and gets hardened after shaping.
Q:Are a guys balls really made out of steel?
Yes, sometimes the steel is hot, and sometimes it is cold. The important thing is that both of you know what you are talking about and focus to the specific thing. If the steel ball is hot all the times, then it is the time to pack your things and to consider to find another balls. Conclusion: your guys balls are not made of *real* steels. Hope it is helpful. PS. If you lick steels, it has metallic taste.
Q:damascus steel knife making?
Here's what you need, the cable should be a minimum of 9/16 with large wires. You need some borax (20 mule team from the store). A good hot coal, coke, or gas forge. If the cable has fiber rope in the center it will need to be removed. Fuse the ends of the cable to keep them from coming apart. I use my welder and while I'm at it I weld a handle to make it easier. Heat it in the forge when the forge is properly heated, rotate it. Some people will burn the oil out, but I've found that the forge does that just fine. Rotate the cable while it's heating. When it begins the turn red pull it out and sprinkle the borax over it, don't hold back use a lot. It will begin to melt and bubble into the steel. Put the cable back in the forge, rotate and watch. This is the critical part. When the steel starts to turn from orange/yellow to almost yellow/white take it out and lightly (I use a 2lb hammer) begin hammering the cable into a square or rectangle. If you do it right you'll notice that it will begin to fight the hammer, that's when you know the weld it taking place. You'll have to repeat the process down the length of the cable. Once you have the billet made you can begin the process of shaping the edge and tang. Once you have it shaped, follow proper forge procedure then grind all the yuck off and finish shaping. Then harden and temper and finish it out. Good luck. I almost forgot a very important part. Befor you start hammering put the cable in a vice while at welding temp (if you are strong you can use a couple of plyers) and twist it tight. On the next heat hold the cable in your left and and lay it on the anvil. Concentrate on your light hammer blows being on your side of the cable. This forces the cable strands together. If you are using smaller cable like 9/16 you can double the cable up and weld two peices together, it is easier and makes for a prettier blade. Doing this you don't have to worry about twisting the cable and you can hit it much harder to start with.
Q:What are the components of Stainless Steel?
Components Of Stainless Steel
Q:HELP ME! Steel beam installation?
My okorder.com for help
Q:Arc welding: DC needed for stainless steel?
there are tradeoffs to the various methods you can use. Check out this link for the scoop on what they are and what the settings should be given the material you are using and the type of welder you decide to use.
Q:CONNECTING STAINLESS STEEL TUBE (SOLDER?)?
Compression Ferrel connections are the best. for small diameter pipe and tubing. A local hardware shop can supply you with the necessary parts and pieces and can also give you a step by step procedure/self help brochure. This will also allow you to install any valve or t or blank in the piping system. The only tools required will be wrenchs and a tube/piping cutter for this type of installation. Brazing is accomplished by heating the base metal and then the rod. There are different types of brazing rod such as brass, bronze etc.. you will also need a can of flux to coat the rod or you can buy the rod pre-coated. If the seam is flat metal you can use the heat from the brazing tip to make the filler rod follow the direction you want. This also includes vertical such as on an auto body. I would suggest practicing this in a safe area. Always utilize a fire extinguisher, brazing goggles, welding gloves and wear a long sleeve shirt for your protection.
Q:What are the best kind of steels for a knife?
D2 and O2 steels are nice. They are expensive, but hold an edge extremely well. S30V is nice also. It's a more stain-resistant steel that holds an edge very well. For outdoor hiking/camping knives, it's tough to beat good old 1095 carbon steel. Sure it will rust, but it's tough as nails, not brittle, holds an edge pretty well, and easy to sharpen...and it's pretty cheap. Other steels, AUS8 is an ok cheap steel. It's stain resistant and cheap. AUS6 isn't worth the time or effort. Buck knives does an excellent job of heat treating 420 stainless to become very hard. Their knives are excellent considering 420 stainless is typically soft steel.
Q:Trade in value for (scrap) steel?
Scrap steel is usually traded per ton. Average steel prices fluctuate on a daily basis. General prices for scrap steel are around $100 - $200 per ton. For daily scrap steel prices check the source below
Q:Calling all pedal steel guitar players?
The okorder.com/... Beware of eBay deals unless you know what you're buying. To start, you should get a 10-string single neck with 3 pedals and 4 levers. Some of the student models don't have as many levers and aren't capable of all the changes you need. Stay away from the ShoBud Maverick...you'll outgrow it in a couple of months. Often it makes more sense to buy a used professional model...you'll eventually need one, and they hold their value better than a student model. You'll also need a volume pedal, bar, thumb and finger picks. For now, your guitar amp will be ok. Playing the guitar: There are several tunings and lots of different combinations of levers, but the basic guitar is a 10 string E9 tuning. It's almost an open E but with a few extra notes. The pedals and levers raise and lower the pitch of selected strings. Chord changes are made by moving the bar and pressing pedals and levers. The volume pedal helps you swell and sustain notes. Steel has it's own unique tablature which reflects all these changes. If you have any other questions, feel free to email me or just join the PSG forum and ask there.

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