Polished Porcelain tile Offer SB4568

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Product Description:

Key SpecificationsPolished Porcelain Tile SB4568:

Product information:

Material: soluble salt porcelain

Various colors are available

Size: 600 x 600mm

Thickness: 10mm

Features: non-slip, wear- and water-resistant

Packing: 4 pieces/carton, 29.5kg/carton

20-foot container: 880 cartons

20-foot FCL container: 1267sqm

Carton with pallets or customized

Primary Competitive Advantages Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 :

First choice,top grade.

Water absorption:<0.1%.

Delivery Time:15~25 days after deposit.

Certicate: CE,ISO9001,Soncap,etc.

Competitive price and good quality

Usage— Suitable for home, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel, airport, shopping mall,

deluxe clubs floor and wall tiles etc.

This series of products in addition to good wear resistance with ultrafine tiles, flexural strength,

and low water absorption, the appearance of the product, due to be fired into a crystal frit, so

three-dimensional effectprominent, white the texture clear, natural, delicate harmony and balance without duplication, with impeccable decorative effect, close to natural stone.

Technical characteristics:

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

Main Export Markets:

Mid East/Africa

Central/South America

Asia

Australasia

Southeast Asia, Mideast Asia

Product Picture :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Production Line :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Product Certificates :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Packing Details :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Q: I have a bathtub that the bottom row of tiles are getting loose on the top portion. A few have come out.The row above seems ok.Can the bottom row be resealed or replaced without interfering with the upper tiles?If so how?: I only charged a customer 800 money to repair that ideal issue. The vulnerable link in this equation isn't the gypsum interior the wall board, however the paper this is used to wrap it. interior the case i discussed, the tile replaced into nevertheless caught to the paper however the paper replaced into peeling off the wall. It takes approximately 4 to 5 sheets of a million/2 rock board to interchange the golf green board. this is approximately 60 dollars with fabric. i might strongly propose which you do the job as quickly as, and do it precise. ideal of success.

Q: If you were going to tile an entire room would you start from the walls or floor? The room is only small 12m walls 4m floor is a basic toilet basin. There are no border tiles no fllor to wall tiles.: i really dont know how to answer this question im really sorry but my moms boyfriend meant know i can talk to him and found the answer

Q: Once my hand accidentally touched the sun sun tiles, even by electricity a bit, but not small. Why is that? Explain the reason.: Friction, and perhaps what substances, the main material of the tile is silica, a variety of metals, compounds, which itself is a bad conductor,

Q: The shiny surface ceramic tile is set unto a cement slab - it has been there 15 years or more with no cracks. Do I need to rough up the surface before I set the tile- if so how? I have tried sanding it (60 grit), wire brushing it - there is no effect on the surface. Also I live in a small town - we do have a Home Depot - do they sell a good bonding agent? If so what? Thank-you for your answer!: To go over tile I ve used both Flex Bond and VesaBond thinset made by Custom Building products, Both are usually sold at Home Depot.. One suggestion when tiling over tile, allow a few extra days drying time before any foot traffic on the new tile . Moisture has no where to go when doing this and extra drying time IS required. Do NOT add a latex additive if you use a polymer type thin set, only a latexed based thin set.. No sanding is generally needed, just a clean , oil and grease free tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: We are using some leftover floor tile (6x6 size) and some new decorative tile (2x2 and 1x1) to tile our backsplash. Can we use the same mortar that we used on the floor? Also, we used a 1/4 inch notched trowel when doing the floor -- should we use a smaller notch for the backsplash (say, a 1/8 inch notched trowel)? Finally, the floor tile and the 1x1 tiles are porcelain. The 2x2 tile is tumbled travertine with quite a few pits on the surface. We don‘t know if we should fill those pits with grout or not. On one hand -- it will make the tiles easier to clean if they are filled (yes?). On the other, we like the look of the pits and don‘t know if we want the grout (which is a slightly darker color) filling the pits. Any suggestions?: After installing thousands of sq. ft. of tile, and getting many thumbs down here?? I offer my thoughts. On a personal note, I don't come here to boost ego or income. DO NOT grout the texture of the travertine just to fill it. First of all the texture of the grout will be different than the tile, NOT likely remain in the smallness of the PITS, and unless it's in a color that matches; will stand out as it it was NEON. I use both sized knives to trowel mortar, in your case 1/8 will be fine. Since any tile should be regularly cleaned,,,given the surfaces they cover,,, I suspect the difference in tiles and textures is interesting and the PITS wherever else they exist must have the same issue? Yes? I might not attempt it, but as a DIY, for your own home, it's not a horrible idea, and certainly can be changed at some point. I guess in the end however I'm most curious about why not save the 6x6 for possible repair/replacements? Also I'm curious about WHY the NEW/Different? Is it in use elsewhere in the house? Is it different, in general, than the horizontal surface it will BUTT against? Finally and with no offense meant,,,Why 6x6 on a floor? Is it a bathroom? Finally, finally,,, DON'T bother to use a sealer that might make you think the Travertine will clean easier. It will only cause an issue of occasionally having to re-apply sealer. Steven Wolf

Q: I wanted to put ceramic tile over the linoleum (in good shape) in our bathroom (floor is concrete). Can I do this or do I need to remove all the linoleum? Thanks: Remove the linoleum. The adherence of your tile is only as good as the material it is bonded to. Linoleum (or more correctly, vinyl) is a poor base to lay tiles over. Remove the vinyl, scrape the concrete of any vinyl adhesive, and mop the floor with TSP. (Tri-sodium phosphate, found at most hardware stores) This will remove most substances from the concrete and create a better surface for your tile. Let the floor dry overnight before setting the tiles.

Q: I accidently kicked in one of the tiles near the knobs on the bottom front of the shower. the tile is caved in and loose so i took it out and noticed the blue board behind it. There is a blue board and 6 tiles on the board. the blue board is easily pushed back and has little support. the 6 tiles are loose too and if i press the tile, it will go back a little. I think the blue board provided little support for the tiles and the tile cave in would of happened eventually anyway. either that or it was completely my fault because i caved in one of the tiles which made all of the other tiles loose?? I think the blueboard had little support and it wasn‘t completely my fault. should i fight my landlord on this?i just met with her and sat through a lecture with her accusing me of everything, from having parties trashing the apartment to the slightly black grout near the tub so im kind of worked up over this.: The tile is installed incorrectly. Water has soaked the blue board and it was a matter of time before theu fell off on their own. Tile should never be installed this way and especially in a well used shower where a lot of use will make it go bad faster. Nothing less than a cement backer board should have been used. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: we are installing 2inch hexagonal tile on the shower floor. anyone have any special tricks to getting them lined up properly? the tile guys have put it down and a lot of the spaces between the tiles are uneven. keep in mind the shower floor slopes a little towards the drain: I tile every day of my life, and assume now it's TOO LATE to change the spacing. 2 inch octagonals should have come with a mesh backing for one thing, in sections that approximate a square foot at least. The mesh is supposed to insure at least a 1/8th inch grout space, between the tiles. Unless the contractor is willing to pull it all and start over, and/or you want to take civil action against them. you might just have to consider the other, hopefully better aspects of the job and live with it. In the SLOPE, which should actually be more a modified concave bowl effect to the drain, it's possible that the tiles would have to be singularly set, and if installed properly would have thinner grout lines to the point where they meet the drain. I'd probably file a complaint if I were you, but you may not get any resolution to the problem. I crafted a spacer tool, that allows spacing at the various distances where the grout lines are actually lined up, which happens with each adjacent tile, but can be crafted to stretch a foot or more when setting meshed sections. Steven Wolf ADDED THOUGHT: Since you added details, certainly you can CUT tiles to separate them. The issue is now, the dry time allowed, at 12:16 AM EST. The TILE sections should have come out of the box with the corner octagons actually protuding some, to FIT into any adjacent sections already laid. If the contractor was a decent one, HE would have determined the layout, and cut the corner tiles out, of SOME of the meshed sections, allowing the new, adjacent section to fit exactly in. Added added note: No offense but the pics show slight variances, but nothing critical. To change and entire line, might mean pulling up an entire square, and using NEW

Q: Small size tiles for external walls: According to the construction industry standard, the external walls of small tiles commonly used size specifications are: ???? 45 * 45mm; ???? 45 * 95mm; ???? 45 * 195mm; ???? 100 * 100mm; ???? 100 * 200mm; ???? 110 * 250mm; ???? 140 * 280mm; ???? 150 * 150mm. ???? Commonly used are 100mm * 100mm and 150mm * 150mm two specifications.

Q: hi guys,i had a new shower which was leaking (no waterproofing where it was leaking from..), therefore i have taken off some of the tiles where the water was leaking from and i have waterproofed it with the paste + fibreglass. before i tile, i would like to have a shower to make sure that the water wont leak. am i able to do that? in theory i dont see a problem, but is it ok to get the waterproofing membrane so wet? thanks: === removing the tiles to correct the leak --- fine --- getting the tile cement and grout behind the good tiles is not recommended === unless you can put a fan in the shower to get it dry and leave it on for the day === if you take the shower test then yo

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