Q:Some said that living near the power cable line might cause cancer because of the radiation from this powerline. Please help me decide. Thanks.

I did not buy a house because it was next to a power unit that powered the neighborhood. My brother in law is an electrician and he did not think it mattered, but I did not take any chances. I bet it would be hard for you to sell the unit in the future because they will not move those cables. I would avoid it.

Q:I have an electrical source 220 Kv or 380 KV at site X and want to pull cables to site Y to privde electricity for this Y site for general lighting and power sockets.So what is the max distance for the cables i can pull from site X without voltage drop affect the voltage or power at site Y.

You are not providing enough information. 220 KV can provide power of TENS of miles on reasonably modest cable PROVIDING the current drain is not too high. Sorry but the idea of anyone playing around with almost .4 MV without the first idea about loading / cable diameter / insualtion requirements scares the crap out of me! Without the required information, all I can say is With the right cable at 380KV , hundreds of miles As an aside, if this is a temorary site, then the cost of buying generator will be WAY cheaper than the cost of the cable and transformers you wil require to turn 380Kv into 110 / 220V If a permenent fixture, then suggest for normal lighting and sockets (as in no industrial smelting plants!), then you would eed to be dropping the voltage either at the 380kv site OR at least some distance from the new fixture. Houses do not typically have .4 MV coming into the cellar. It might arc a few metres you see if the air is a little humid. Make things a bit dodgy. **UPDATE** Ok, thanks for clarifying the voltage. Now we also know power too -so at 220v, and about 12KW we are looking at VERY roughly 55 Amps. 25mm cable ought to be good for a couple of hundred metres or so. 16mm for upto 50 metres or so. If a LOT further than that, then either go with three phase/380 OR up the size of the cable. Problem is it can start getting pricey. The shorter the run, the lighter the cable can be - to a point - would NOT suggest going below 10mm under ANY circumstances. You will always get SOME voltage drop, but providing it is in the order of a couple of volts here and there, there is no appreciable waste / heat generation. Is this a fixed installation or a temporary one - if temporary and a fair distance away I would STILL be inclined to sugges a genset hire might work out cheaper than drums of suitable cable.

Q:I need 600W of power for my new computer, but all I have is 2 300W, 20-pin power supplies. What I'm wondering is if I can combine the 2 20-pin connectors and turn them into 1 24-pin connector?

relies upon on the producer are you advantageous its basically 20 pin as some 4 pin connectors grasp freely so how many different 4 clusters do you have you will desire to have 2 one million of those would be the different connector you go with except its an exceptionally very very old cheappy PSU inwhich case replace it they ordinary and much less costly 30 bux

Q:when i start up the laptop it works fine ,when the power cable is plugged in the lights will flash sometimes and the laptop will not recognise that it is plugged in. i have bought a new adaptor and this is still happening, any help would be great

You can't just glue it back on, it needs to be resoldered or replaced. That flashing you see when pressing the power button is telling you that the battery has not enough power to boot the computer. It clearly isn't interfacing with the power adapter since the electrical connection is broken.

Q:Just wondering if the eVGA GT 440 graphics/video card needs a power cable connect from the psu to it.I bought a PC pre-made from JB HI-FI and going to upgrade my graphics card. The one I have currently is the Radeon HD 4650 and it appears to have no cable connecting to it. There are however, some cables connecting to the motherboard near it.

No, it doesn't need one, but it's also a crappy purchase. The Radeon 6670 costs about the same, doesn't require external power, and slaps the GT 440 silly.

Q:What is the difference between wires and cables? Please provide a brief introduction

If you are in a small city or town, go to some of the aluminum core series of cable (if you are in a small city or town), if you are in a big city, ask high, with copper core BV, BVVB, RV, VV series line Better, according to the level of regional economic development to purchase the cable, wire type.

Q:I've had this laptop (Dell Studio XPS 1640) for about two and a half years, and I've been through three power cables. The first one was a no-brainer, since the end was wearing a lot and you could see the wires. The past two have basically just stopped working for no obvious reason. The blue light on the end of the cord still lights up blue, but my computer says plugged in and not charging. I just bought a brand new one less than four months ago and it's worked perfectly until this past week. Has anyone else been having this problem with similar laptops? And if so, is there anything I can do besides wasting more money on a new cable?

I would suggest your take your adapter in to your local computer store and they can check it out. If your adapter is working but your still not getting current then the problem is inside your computer and it will need to be sent for repairs... Source(s): CompTIA A+ Computer Professional

Q:W22 in the cable on behalf of what

Is the name of the vv22 it is armored copper core PVC insulated power cable V is PVC, VV said PVC insulated PVC sheathed, insulation and sheath is two different things, the jacket is the outermost layer of the cable, Insulation, mainly from the role of protection cable, the insulation layer is wrapped in the conductor outside the layer, mainly from the insulation. 22 means armored, armored between the sheath layer and the insulation between the strip, and its role is to strengthen the protection of the cable, at the same time, can prevent the mouse bite, can also be used as ground. The copper core is not shown in the letter in the model, because most cables are copper, so the copper cable basically takes its representation (indicated by T). On the contrary, if it is aluminum core cable, it will be added in the model L said aluminum core.

Q:where do i put the wire through from the inside of the car to the battery located under the hood?

you have to find a hole in the firewall and make your way through.. I have an 02 explorer, i found a plastic cap where some electrical wires went through to the engine, so i drilled another hole in the cap, (very carefully) and used a rubber washer to seal the gap. Make sure you dont leave any gaps in your firewall, and avoid drilling a hole in the actual firewall AT ALL COSTS!! hope that helps!

Q:Welding cable (230v) doesn't, so why would (14v) car audio cables

Some car audio power cables have extra-thick insulation because the manufacturer is trying to sell them as larger than the actual wire gauge. These types of rip-off amp kits are often sold by online vendors. Amplifier power cables have to be very flexible, very resistant to temperature extremes, resistant to oil and gas, and they're typically designed to be used in an environment with lots of sharp metal edges. A thick, flexible jacket is preferable to a thin jacket that might crack when it's flexed in cold temperatures.