Hot Water Circulating Pump XR Series

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General
Type XR hot water circulating pump, according to API610 and VDAM24297(light/medium duty), it is advanced products developed from type R hot water circulating pumps with high serialization, standardization and generalization. The pumps have advanced performance, stable operation, safe and reliable. It is used in metallurgy, power stations, chemical industry as well as heating system or closed circle system for handling hot water circulating and exchange-heating. The highest temperature of the liquid can not be over 250℃. Working pressure is not allowed more than 5.O MPa.

Performance range
Capacity Q :1.6~2600m3/s
Head : 5~300m
Working Pressure（P）: ≤ 5MPa
Working temperature（T）: hot water ≤250℃

The description of pump type
For example：XR200－400A
XR－New Type hot water circulating pump
200－Inlet Diameter of pump(mm)
400－Impeller nominal diameter(mm)
A－Outer diameter of impeller is changed

Construction
Type XR hot water circulating pump is the kind of single-stage, single-suction overhanging centrifugal pump with horizontal axial suction and radial upward discharge.
The pump casing is radial split which installed horizontally with supported on the center line. Especially suitable for high temperature and high pressure and transport inflammable and explosive liquids.
The shaft seal is mechanical seal or packing seal. The pump used rolling bearings which get lubricated with dilute oil.

The direction of rotation
The rotation of the pump rotor is clockwise looking from the motor to the pump.

Q:I just bought a 1997 Honda Civic, done about 85k. There is no record of the timing belt having ever been changed so I want to get this done as a priority. My usual mechanic can't do it for a month due to other commitments so I have been ringing round for quotes, and generally these have all been to change the belt quot;plus the kit- which makes sense, change the lot while you are in there.Surprisingly, the cheapest quote I have had was from my local Honda dealer, however, they have said this is for the belt only as they don't change the tensioner/water pump on this model. Are they full of it? I'm not sure whether to take this as expertise from the car's manufacturer or total BS from some chancer trying to make money from us having to come back when other things go wrong!: Dealers are notorious for just replacing exactly what needs replacing. They will replace the belt, then six months later the water pump will go out, or the tensioner will start making noise, and neither will be covered under warranty of the original repair. Change all wearing items when you change the belt, and you won't have any problems in that area for years.

Q:I'm going to be purchasing a laboratory distillation kit here pretty soon, the kit includes everything I need for the setup but the condenser requires a water pump to circulate cold water around the coils. What kind of pump would you recommend for this purpose?: A small centrifugal pump that has the flowrate designated by the condenser manufacturer. I assume it has a heat exchanger of some type to reject the heat to the air and that would need a designate flow. Anyway, look in any lab supply catalog or web site and they will have many small pumps. You do not need to carefully control the flowrate, so stay away from metering or peristaltic pumps. The pumps may even be made of plastic, that is fine for this application. In my lab, we would just run the water from the tap through the glass condenser and let it drain out to waste. It is wasteful of water, but it sure was much cheaper than buying a pump and heat exchanger.

Q:how to change a water pump on a 99 ford tauras?: Loosen the bolt, swap it with a new pump and tighten the bolt.

Q:yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry: You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.

Q:My toyota 99 camry stalled and would not start. engine turned over and all lights worked. had the oil changed 3 weeks ago and they told me their was a noise and it might be the water pump. my questions are does this sound like the water pump? Do they usually change the timing belt and is this necessary? is this something that we can do at home? thank-you for any info out their!: camry requires special tools and not easily accesible. timing belt is a '' good idea for a 99

Q:My old pump burned up so i recently replaced it (with a refurbished pump) I have new pipe to the pump, new tank. my pump is a 1/2 hp 230v pump, I also replaced the control box. With my pump plugged in and the water coming straight out of the pipe bypassing the tank when I turn the power on I will get water for a minute or so then I won't get water for a minute. This will keep happening. I have checked the switch and when I quit getting water there is still power going to the pump. any suggestions or ideas? bad wiring or bad pump?...I know that there is water in thew well, the pump is located at 100 ft of a 115 ft well and i can see the water level about 10 ft underground.: Your problem may be in the wire feeding down to the pump, the pump starts to run, the torque of the motor turning causes the wire to twist and causes the break in the wire to spread and open the circuit. This stops the pump, pump settles back in to position and restarts, seen this happen a lot. Pull the pump and inspect the wire from top to bottom very carefully.

Q:Home water well is artesian, to holding tank. I am needing to replace my pump yearly. Inside of the pump is rusted, this causing a real loud whining sound before failure. Pump motor isn't failing, the inside of the pump ends up freezing loosing the ability to spin.Any suggestions as to why?: Hi I was (now retired) in the pumping industry pumps for the kind of use you appear to be using them for were normally stainess steel or stainless steel and plastic. I would suggest you look at the Xylem ( a major supplier and installer of pumps) site. Regards John

Q:About 3 weeks ago our water stopped. We replaced the switch at the pump and it was fine. Today when I was running water, it stopped again. I went and flipped the breaker on it, but it still didn't come on. About 20 minutes later, it started working again. Have you ever had this happen or do you know what the problem could be?: The pump has a capacitor start motor. Electrolytic capacitors fail. The capacitor is not physically down the well with the motor though, just electrically connected. There should be a pump control box on your wall somewhere with a pump shut off lever on the side, some relays and a large motor start capacitor hidden inside the box. Kill the main power, open the box, remove the capacitor and replace it with a new one with the same number on it. You can get them at any pump supply place, or even just order it on the internet. I recommend taking a picture first for reassembly if you can't understand the schematic on the inside of the box. Sometimes electrolyte from the bulged out old cap obliterates the schematic anyway, so having a pic is a good idea. Look on the internet for motor start caps if you can't figure out which item it is.

Q:antifreeze leaking from the water pump. antifreeze wont stay in car, car overheating. 96 chevy cavalier. 2.4: So what is your question? If you know the problem, either replace it yourself (which I would NOT recommend), or take it to a mechanic, to have it replaced. On this particular vehicle, it's a major undertaking, since the water pump is driven by the timing chain, if I recall correctly. To access it requires removing the engine mount, and front timing chain cover. Installation requires having the engine re-timed. Although I'm not familiar with GM products, as a rule of thumb, engines that use a timing chain, are usually an INTERFERENCE engine (which means piston/valve damage WILL result, if mistimed). The labour time guides lists 8 hours for this repair on this particular vehicle, with this particular engine. That should tell something, since water pumps are usually listed for about 2 to 3 hours labour on most vehicles. Hope this helps.

Q:i want to make this for a physics project for school. i found a video on how to make it, but i dont understand the physics behind. i have to make a model and a poster explaining the physics. i dont understand what to put on the poster so could someone help me with which physics principles this project would go with?: It isn't practical to give a detailed description here. This is a positive displacement pump. The pump chamber is sealed so that as the piston is moved up the volume within the chamber increases. Water is pushed into this chamber by the outside air pressure. If the pump is located too far above the water source then the air pressure is not sufficient and you will produce a vacuum inside but the water still will not flow. When the pump is pushed down the water flows out. Now the one way valves are critical. We don't want the water to flow back the way it came and we don't want the water that we have already pumped to flow back into the pump. So a one way valve on the inlet will permit water to flow into the pump but not out of it. And a one way valve on the outlet will permit water to flow OUT of the pump but not into it. So with each stroke you a) reduce the pressure in the pump. b) water is forced from the inlet, past its one way valve and then into the pump. c) the pump is pushed down increasing the pressure in the pump. d) water flows out of the pump through the other one way valve and on to the output.

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