Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Building Roof Walls

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25 m.t.
Supply Capability:
20000 m.t./month

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1. Description of the Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel

Hot-dip aluzinc steel structure is composed of aluminum-zinc alloy, consisting of 55% aluminum, 43% zinc and 2% at 600 silicon solidification temperature and composition, the entire structure is made of aluminum - iron - silicon - zinc, to form a dense quaternary crystals an alloy.

Hot-dip aluzinc steel has many excellent features: strong corrosion resistance, is three times the pure galvanized sheet; zinc surface with beautiful flowers, can be used as a building outside board.

Applications of hot-dip aluzinc steel:

1)Building: roof, walls, garages, soundproof walls, pipes and modular housing.

2)Automotive: muffler, exhaust pipes, wiper accessories, fuel tank, truck boxes, etc.

3)Appliances: refrigerator back, gas stove, air conditioners, microwave oven, LCD frame, 4)CRT-proof band, LED backlight, electrical cabinets, etc.

5)Farm: barn, sheds, silos, piping and other greenhouse.

6)Other: breaking heat insulation cover, heat exchangers, dryers, warm water, etc.

 

2.Main Features of the Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel

Excellent corrosion resistance

High temperature oxidation resistance

High hot reflectance

Good manufacturability

•Beautiful appearance

Surface coating

Cost-effective

3.Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Images

Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Building Roof Walls

 4.Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Specification

 

AVAILABLE SPECIFICATION

 

HOT-DIP ALUZINC STEEL COILS

THICKNESS

0.16mm-3.5mm

WIDTH

1250mm MAX

COATING MASS

30g/ m2-185 g/ m2

SPANGLE

Regular Spangle, Minimized Spangle, Zero Spangle

SURFACE TREATMENT

Chromated / non-chromated, Oiled / non-oiled, Anti Finger Print

COIL INNER DIAMETER

508mm or 610mm

 

HOT-DIP ALUZINC STEEL COILS

COMMERCIAL QUALITY

ASTM A792M-06a

EN10327-2004

 JIS G 3321:2010

 

 

STRUCTURE STEEL

SS GRADE  230

SS GRADE  255

SS GRADE  275

SS GRADE  340

SS GRADE  550

S220GD+AZ

S250GD+AZ

S280GD+AZ

S320GD+AZ

S350GD+AZ

S550GD+AZ

SGLC400

SGLC440

SGLC490

SGLC570

 

 

 

5.FAQ of Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel

1.    How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

2.    How long can we receive the product after purchase?

Production period is 30 days. And we’d prefer you can give us more time to book vessel.

3.    What’s the usage of Aluzic coil?
Auto manufacture, Oil drum, Transformer's tank panel, Furniture etc.

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Q:stainless steel wall ties?
they tie the walls to the ceiling to keep it from being blow en off in a storm stainless steel wont rust and become weak
Q:Carbon Steel/ Stainless Steel knives?
If your talking about a folding pocket knife, I think that it's basically six one way and a half dozen the other. I actually do prefer stainless for my pocket knives. I don't want to oil a knife to the degree I feel carbon requires, only to then stick it my pocket to attract dirt to the knife and oil to my pants. I'm the exact opposite on sheath knives though. I like 1095 carbon steel, plain edge sheath knives. I'll thrash on them HARD, and I rarely have major edge problems. Of course, I require them to be coated with some kind of powder coat or the like, because they can rust, but I do try and keep them clean and dry when in the sheath, so they won't pit the uncoated edge. My reasons for this sheath knife preference is multi-fold. First, these knives are simply affordable. I don't spend $80 dollars on a outdoors sheath knife. I use the tool too hard to want to spend more. I don't like the more traditional stainless steels such as AUS-8, 420HC, and 440C (not to mention the HORRENDOUS 440A) because I feel that the all else being equal, a stainless blade will bend before a carbon blade will break. I also think that carbon holds an edge at least as well, if not better, than traditional stainless, and it's much easier to hone. I don't know much about these new laminates, other than the very hard, but not so tough. They seem to be POSSIBLY too brittle for my use. That, combined with the fact that they cost a FORTUNE, means that I just won't be considering them.
Q:Ways to damage steel?
There are plenty of ways to damage/weaken steel... shear or tensile force, fatigue, temperature, corrosion, grinding, etc... there are even dozens of ways to do each of the things I just listed. But in the case you suggested, with the steel being very close to skin... a simple pair of bolt cutters would probably be the easiest.
Q:Is this guitar steel string or nylon?
That's a very low-end Kay, maybe from the 60's or 70's. It has a weird mixture of steel-string and classical features that you often see in cheap imports from around that time, maybe because the factory didn't want to stock different parts for different lines. The tuners (one of which is missing) are made for steel strings. They will work with nylon but not well. The bridge is a generally classical type but appears to be bolted on and seems to have some compensation carved into the saddle, which indicates it may have been intended for steel strings. Probably it's ladder braced, which is not a great design for either type. It has a classical rosette and a steel-string pickguard. I am guessing the neck has steel reinforcement but unless there's a sticker there's no way to tell. Personally I'd put light or (preferably) extra-light steel strings on it. The short scale length will help keep the tension down. I'd keep an eye on the neck though. You could also try silk steel to be on the safe side, but the bass response will probably be lacking.
Q:surgical steel or sterling silver belly button rings?
Sterling silver is not meant for extended wear in body piercings, and should NEVER be worn in fresh or unhealed piercings - the silver will tarnish, and the tarnish can be deposited into your skin which causes it to turn gray or black. Silver can also cause allergic reactions for those who have nickel allergies. So it's okay to wear for a special occasion in a healed piercing, but has lots of nasty side effects if left in too long. As for the surgical steel: not all SS body jewelry is created equal! Lots of cheap steel body jewelry is made out of 316L Stainless steel, which is the minimum requirement for steel worn in healing/fresh piercings. Some people can wear this type of steel, but it can (and does) irritate and cause allergic reactions for others. Personally, I will only wear 316LVM ASTM F-138 Implant Grade Steel, which is the same type of material that doctors use when they put pins and plates in your body during surgery. It is the highest quality steel you can get, and will usually cost a bit more, but as someone with sensitive skin I am not willing to risk getting an allergic reaction from sub-par jewelry. Also, implant-grade jewelry is most often INTERNALLY-THREADED, which means that the threads are concealed inside the jewelry and do not come in contact with your skin. EXTERNALLY-THREADED jewelry has the threads on the outside, and inserting it into your piercings is pretty much the equivalent of dragging a screw through your navel. Whatever grade of steel you decide to go with, make sure the threads are on the inside!
Q:stainless steel properties??
Stainless steel is a generic term for a whole range (there are more than 60 types) of Fe-Cr alloys. They all contain some amount of C and some alloys include a good number of other alloying elements. In almost all cases, the materials have corrosion resistance due the Cr atoms that are in solid solution with the Fe matrix. Under corrosive conditions, the Cr forms a thin tight coherent layer of Cr-oxide. This Cr oxide coating prevents further corrosion so long as it is not chemically or physically removed. If the SS has been subject to mechanical abrasion, the corrosion resistance can sometimes be restored by a light exposure to nitric acid which passivates the surface, restoring the Cr-oxide layer. The carbon content is an important factor in corrosion preformance but so is the heat treatment. Under the wrong conditions and in different environments, all SSs can rust. One of the most common corrosion problems is sensitization which occurs in the heat affect zone (HAZ) around welds. If the C content is high enough and the heat is high enough, the Cr atoms in solid solution form Cr-carbides and are no longer available to form a protective Cr-oxide. The corrosion resistance can be restored by appropriate heat treatment.
Q:working load of steel anchor ?
oo that's a tough one. dont remember... just finished that class...sorry
Q:How Do I Harden 12L14 Steel?
*Hardening: okorder.com/... AISI 12L14 : Category :Steel Class :Carbon steel Type :Standard resulfurized and rephosphorized Common Names :Lead steel Designations: Germany: DIN 1.0718 Italy: UNI 9 SMnPb 23 Japan: JIS SUM 22 L , JIS SUM 24 L Sweden: SS 1914 United States: ASTM A108 , ASTM A29 , SAE J403 , SAE J412 , SAE J414 , UNS G12144 Composition : Element / Weight % C / 0.15 (max) Mn / 0.85-1.15 P / 0.04-0.09 S / 0.26-0.35 Pb / 0.15-0.35 Mechanical Properties : Properties / Conditions / T (°C) /Treatment Density (×1000 kg/m3) 7.7-8.03 / 25 Poisson's Ratio 0.27-0.30 /25 Elastic Modulus (GPa) 190-210 / 25 Tensile Strength (Mpa) 540 / 25 /cold drawn (round bar (19-38 mm)) Yield Strength (Mpa) /415 Elongation (%) /10 Reduction in Area (%) /35 Hardness (HB) 163 /25 /cold drawn (round bar (19-38 mm)) *Rod- 12L14 Case Hardened to Rockwell C 58-62 Case Depth .060 Sleeve - 12L14 Case Hardened to Rockwell C 58-62 Case Depth .060 Blade - 12L14 Case Hardened to Rockwell C 58-62 Case Depth .030 Quantity 5000 Rods: Weight per piece .8 ounce (Total 250 pounds) 5000 Sleeves: Weight per piece 1.8 ounce (Total 563 Pounds) 5000 Blades: Weight per piece .3 ounce (94 pounds) Total weight of RFQ 907 pounds 12L14 Steel.
Q:what is the elastic limit of steel in Nm^2?
Elastic Limit Of Steel
Q:is tool steel reliable steel in construction of a sword?
It depends on the tool steel you are referring to and the function of the sword. L6 steel is a modern tool steel that a few smiths are using (Howard Clark, MAS, etc.), which produces some amazing swords that are both tough and flexible, but very few smiths are qualified to work with it and it is easy to screw up the heat treatment. T10 is another tool steel used by a few larger manufacturers (Paul Chen, etc.), which has a very high carbon content and includes a tungsten ally which makes it very tough and a little more resilient then 1095 carbon steel, however, as with any very high carbon steel, they may be durable but may also chip or break. 1060 and 1075 is the standard steel for most modern production swords since they provide a good balance between hardness, and durability. Spring steel is good if you are concerned about a sword taking a lateral bend, but is only really necessary if you do a lot of tameshigiri and have not yet developed a consistent hasuji.

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