• High Zirconia AR fiberglass mesh System 1
High Zirconia AR fiberglass mesh

High Zirconia AR fiberglass mesh

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Specifications

ARN5*5-100LH 160g/M2 ZrO2 16.5%
Meet EN15422:2008 GRC request for zircon
Export to Japan many year with very good quality.

AR GLASSFIBER MESH (Top level quality)

ARNP5*5-100L 160g/M2   ZrO2 ≥16.5%

Mesh Hole: 5mm*5mm or 10mm*10mm

Width: 100cm

Weight per sqm: 160g/M2

Initial Tensile breaking strength:

Warp direction:≥1200N / 5cm

Weft  direction: ≥1200N /5cm

AR strength retention rate: Over 85% (Soaked in 5% NaOH alkaline solution for 28 days and test the strength)

Colours: white, green or meet your taste.

Roll length: 50M/roll

Packing: 50M/roll/shrink film,36rolls/pallets,20pallets/1*20FCL .

Remarks: 1. Export to Japan for many years for outside wall reinforcement.

               2. Can be used to produce GRC cement board by hand-making methods.

               3. Zirconia rate reach to International standard EN15422: 2008

Q: i want to put some cement in my backyard for a basketball court, is it really expensive, and about how much is it per ft.?
You buy it by the yard, no it is not expensive but you better have the forms set and be ready to work it.
Q: For my graphics class**Do I simply apply an even coat to one of the pieces I want to glue, wait for it to dry, then apply it?I've been looking for videos. I don't want to mess this up. Also, how do I use this particular tool to smoothen the paper?
When I've used rubber cement, I've applied a coat to both surfaces to be glued, let it dry until tacky ( when it no longer looks shiny and is slightly sticky to the touch) and then put them together. Putting them together is the tricky part: the rubber cement sticks right away, and it's hard to re-place whatever you're trying to glue, so you have to place the pieces correctly on the first try. I've never used a tool like that to smooth paper (correction: I've never smoothed paper, but when I've used a tool like that I've used it to make neat folds). I would guess the unpointed end, but past that I have no idea. Sorry. If you use the rubber cement properly you can just smooth the paper with your fingers as you glue it down, and you shouldn't need to use a tool at all. Good luck!
Q: I am cofused~ what is the difference between water-based cement and glue~~
Water based cement is different because you can clean it up like really fast if you have soemthing to do so... Once it dries completely you can't clean it up with water anymore. And glue doesn't clean up that way...plus water based cement can give you better results =) hope this helps
Q: While chewing gum, my molar crown fell off. I was panicking and i used my tongue to place it back. I got home and i have some temporary teeth cement I was going to use, but I tried to very gently pull the crown back out and it won't come out. Should I use a little more force or should I just keep it as is? It's Sat night and my dentist isn't available until Monday. I'm afraid to eat or sleep
Are you a dentist? If not, don't attempt to replace the crown - especially with temporary teeth cement. The very fact that the underlying surface has now been exposed to germs means that putting cement or anything else on to the area opens the tooth and the surrounding gum to infection. You'll have to wait to see your dentist on Monday. I note that I lost a crown and had to wait several days because I was overseas and couldn't locate a dentist. What I did was to wash my mouth with an antiseptic mouth wash several times a day. I found a dentist as soon as I could who cleaned the area thoroughly. My own dentist replaced the tooth. I no longer chew chewing gum. The practice is a recipe for disaster for those of us with crowns on our teeth.
Q: hellow I gutted my bathroom all the wall board and I put up cement backerboard and want to know what I can use on the seams I have the fiberglass mesh tape , Joint compound is for wall board grout is for tile . Cement ? plaster ? I want it waterproof hydrolic cement ?Any help With this I would really appreciate.I'am an electrician not a wall trade and i want it to be right , from the jump. Thanks g, Singh
wow, some of these answers are terrible, I like the one where the guy says dont worry about taping and mudding the seams or the other one that said just double up the backerboard lol. Anyway, you should have a vapor barrier of some sort. Since you already put up the backerboard, you should tape and mud the seams then put a coat of Redgard(made by Custom Building Products, at Home Depot) over the backerboard. You can paint it on, its very easy. As far as the electrical box, if it was dry before then I would leave it as long as its not wrapping around any plumbing pipes.
Q: I put it over ice instead of salt and now it's still on the cement in hard clumps.
vinagar and a little salt that melts ice
Q: Ferro-cement was the quot;inquot; material to make a boat hull from, and my father was quite taken with the idea behind it. Time and my father have passed, and I am wondering if it is still a viable building material. thank you for your responses.
If made by a professional, the concrete hull has lots of advantages over its FRP cousin. The concrete gets harder as time goes on. The first one made in the 1860's is still afloat. Cement does not blister or delaminate. The weight can be a read advantage when sailing in choppy seas as it will plow through waves that will stop a lighter vessel. If one should encounter a situation that would hole a FRP vessel, the ferro will cave in like an eggshell. Kick it back in shape, slap some fresh cement on it and off you go. Down side is dealing with marinas. They think that you will come flying into your slip and destroy the dock. As long as you are aware of your extra weight and adjust your maneuvers there should be no problems.
Q: We recently replaced a basement window and the window was slightly smaller than the last one. Therefore we had to add pieces of wood to the frame to make the window fit properly. When the original window was done they used quickset to protect the window frame on the outside from the elements of the weather (where the frame would have been exposed). Should I do the same? Or should I try some type of molding?Thanks!
It's best not to use any type of wood around basement windows. Cement bricks work well for in-filling around windows. Ridgid foam along with spray foam also work well to infill gaps around window prior to being covered with cement mortar. Pressure treated wood is an option. I personally don't like to use it on a clients home. Because it will eventually rot (usually along the bottom) due to it's close proximity to the ground and mositure within the existing wall. Use a cement mortar around the the window.
Q: He is putting in new counters and he is stuck. Please, your answer should be something normally kept in a kitchen and within reach of a penninsula. Your choices are coffee accessories, baking items, grill utensils and a toaster.
I'd go with the toaster!

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