Good Price Color Solar Cell With High Quality

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Product Description:

156*156mm Poly Cell Poly Panel China High Quality Module Price from China Factory


product description


1,Components,ultra-white Executed tempered glass+PVB+cell+PVB+tempered glass
2,Components with ultra-white Executed tempered glass+PVB+cell+PVB+tempered glass+of PVB+tempered glass




product characteristic


1.Rigorous quality control meeting the highest international standards


2.High-transmissivity low-iron tempered glass, strong aluminium frame


3.Using UV-resistant silicon


4.ISO 9001:2008 and ISO 14001:2004


5.IEC61215, IEC61730, Safety Class in conformity to CE


1.10 years limited product warranty


2.15 years at 90% of the minimal rated power output


3.25 years at 80% of the minimal rated power output


detail parameter

e-series module


technological process




frame up



we pack goods with pallets and carton box

each one will be carefully examined by our staff.

Materials in stock can be produced (procedure 5-20days) right away after pre-payment confirmation. COSCO, Mearsk and MSC ship to worldwide for safe shipping, so don't worry about package damage or loss. It takes about 15-40 days to worldwide, Please note us your contact details, including your phone number, for easy contacting from shipping company officer. 


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Q:A question about central a/c and roof solar panels?
Don't do it! It takes years to get your money back. Your better to put the money into insulation and or buying geo thermal unit. I knew someone who install solar panels on his roof to generate hydro and he didn't notice much of a change on his hydro bill and then he had roof problems . Central air units in last 2 years have become very efficient . Almost half the hydro of ones 0 years ago. If you can afford buy a geo thermal unit. It uses the heat of the ground in the winter 2 heat your house during the winter and the coolness of the ground to cool your house. They aren't cheap though. If you plan on living in your house for more than 0 years and have the room in the yard to install then go for it. No how you slice it though AC units use way more hydro than solar panels can produce. You would need about half a football field with a huge battery storage system to run a AC unit. When a company states you might on hydro I would stay away. Also remember they do not tell you about the costs of the upkeep on the solar panels and converter and batteries
Q:How to amplify current from a solar panel?
If you want to power both USB ports at the same times, It might not be possibble. Your solar panel only supplies 2.24 Watts (20V * 0.2A) of power and you need to deliver 2.5 Watts (5V * 0.5A) to the ports. Subtracting any losses from your regulator(s), you will be WAY over your power budget. You will need more of a solar panel or less of a load.
Q:Solar panel, Home office and Tax write off?
5% of the Net Cost (After Rebates) Depreciated over 27.5 years. EDIT: Oops ....39 years. I was actually debated that in my head before I posted.
Q:Why should I use a Charge Controller for my Battery and Solar Panel based on these provided details?
Should I really be concerned with a Charge Controller? Yes. The main purpose of the charge controller is to protect the battery from over charging. Over charging reduces battery life. And spending extra money for a MPPT type controller will get more more useable power out of your solar panel. Would another battery of the same magnitude be helpful in preventing an accident? How much storage capacity does your current battery have (measured in kWH)? A ~$20 Kill-a-Watt meter would take a lot of uncertainty out of how much power you actually use. Even deep cycle batteries suffer reduced battery life from deep discharges. The battery sounds too small for the loads you describe so I would think you would want more. ---------------------------------------... After reading the other answer In a nutshell, with your small 2 volt starting battery, 24 volt panel and a mix of unknown loads, (which is correct), I thought I would elaborate. I had not considered the possibility that you bought a 24 volt panel for your 2 volt battery. Hooking the panel you bought directly to the current battery is a horrible idea. I you were lucky it would just cook the battery in a short period of time. You basically bought the wrong type of panel for a 2 volt system. I assume that there are no controllers on the the market for this situation. If that's the case, I don't know of any good way match the 24v panel to the 2 volt battery.
Q:help understanding solar panel stuff?
Any fan you find in a store is going to expect AC, not DC, which is what solar panels produce. An inverter changes DC to AC. You'll probably want a deep cycle car battery to smooth out overages and underages. Any fan will tell you how many watts it uses. Panels should (i haven't looked) tell you how many watts they produce. Just off hand, I'd guess you're looking at a 2'x4' panel. Considering how much you'll be paying for the rest of the stuff, a good 00' cord is appropriate,. Last, it's worth the experience, but you'll never recover the cost of everything that you'll have to buy. Have fun.
Q:What specification of solar panel do I need?
Ive been employing the comparable photograph voltaic panels for 5 years, have flow some instances so as that they final lots longer than the roofs weve had over us. i'm coaching my young ones a thank you to construct wind turbines, because of the fact we shop having potential failiures whilst the wind blows. and recently its have been given very windy. I can charge banks of battery's and shop my place of work working from dc-ac converters.
Q:Why do solar panels stop working?
Panel degradation can occur in many ways, but they generally take a long time (40yr old panels are still working...). One problem is diffusion. Since the cells are at a finite temperature and receive energy from the light, atoms in the structure can migrate around the cell. If you mix up materials from either side of the junction, you can reduce or remove the internal field and so charge separation no longer occurs, meaning no more current output. This is generally a very, very slow process. My current research is on the back contacts of cadmium-telluride solar cells. CdTe forms a junction with metals, and this junction has a built in electric field that tries to stop the current going out of the cell. This is bad! It reduces the power you get out. To overcome this, copper is sometimes added. This really cuts down on the restrictions on current, but copper is very diffusive. Within weeks at room temperature it can jiggle its way along grain boundaries (the solar cells aren't one big crystal, but a load of small grains. Our lab makes ones about 0.006mm across). Whilst copper at the back contact is good because it cancels out the effect of the field there, once it gets to the cell junction it has a worse effect. It can act as a 'recombination centre' or 'shunting pathway' - it either absorbs the free charges or takes them somewhere useless and cuts the power output. Copper is a very obvious and quick acting cause of solar panels reducing in output. I believe a similar effect is true for other cells, just with different materials. The quality of the junction degrades slowly as heat and light give energy to atoms in the lattice and make them jiggle around a bit. Once you have things out of place, performance degrades.
Q:Power tester for solar panel?
Q:Photodiode vs solar panels?
Yes, so are camera sensors. Except in cameras they're specially desgined to reduce noise.
Q:Advantages and Disadvantages of using solar panels?
Initial cost , space occupied AND DAILY CYCLE (unless through a battery) are the only disadvantages. REST ARE ALL ADVANTAGES

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