• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6639 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6639 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6639 System 3
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6639

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6639

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX-S6639 is one of the popular colors in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas, due to its unique antique feel image and texture. The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly used in Europe, North America and Middle East.  

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

   Grade AAA available only

   Mainly the basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm.

  Strict quality control system for monitoring water absorption rate, color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, slip-resistance, abrasion resistance as well as packing.

  More competitive prices in China supplying market

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for the whole purchasing process.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.5%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Slip Resistance: 0.5

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

  For 300x600mm, 8pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

 Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX-S6639

FAQ

 

1.   What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?

—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.

 

2.   Could you company supply polished porcelain tile?

—— Yes. We could supply various kinds of polished porcelain tile, with size 60*60, 80*80, 100*100 and 60*120.

 

3.   Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?

—— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.

Q:I have to remove the old tiles and install new ones. Please can someone who does this for a living guide me in the right direction?
Remove the old tile and dry wall or what ever wall board is behind the tile, put up a vapor barrier, reset a cement board product and tile. Tile with a thin set , never a mastic in this type of area. This is a general guide to the basics, you need more specifics, since its to much detail to go in here...E mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:i know NOTHING about how to do it or what i need. Could someone just list all the tools and equipment i would need to buy or rent to complete this job myself? ie, tiles, tile cutter, ?, ?, ?... etc. thanks.
this okorder for video instructions.
Q:How many square meters of tiles (wall) (Tiles) multiple?
How big is it? 800X800 and 600X600 are a square meter weight is not the same?
Q:the tiles are laid down using thinset cement. Mastic not used.
Trying to save the tile is a lost cause. You'll end up breaking them. The good thing about tile, if done right, it is forever. The bad thing about tile, it is forever, until you decide to replace it.. Double edged sword.
Q:but now we have decided to probably go with laminate tile in each. Mainly time is the big thing, I know I can put that in but not sure about tile. Anyways is this a good decision. Does anyone have experience with laminate tile and if so can you recommend where or what brand to look at. Also can you give me an idea of pricing..Thanks...
Are you talking about vinyl squares or Laminate flooring that snaps together? It makes a big difference. If it is vinyl squares Home Depot does have a huge selection, but it will look cheap and that stuff does not stick very well for long term in a very wet area. If it is laminate flooring it will look nicer and will hold up to the moisture better. You will need to caulk the perimeter with silicone. (water on top is o.k. water under the floor and its all over very quickly.) Hope this helps
Q:I am am re-tiling the kitchen counter. Please help. Thanks.
I tile every day of my life, and usually hang out in DIY. Tile spacers come in two sizes, 1/4 and 1/8. For a counter top I suggest 1/8. You already know they look like (+) signs, and many have rounded tips. They are also sold in what looks like a round CAP with the plus sign under that allows for corner spacing and alignment. I do not use corners specifically, in laying the spacer flat, primarily through experience, but many suggest that method. You would set a piece of tile, then another in close proximety, using the spacers to align and keep the tiles at an exatc distance from each other. The spacer also makes a great scoop for wiping out excess mortar or mastic that squeezes up into the grout lines. I suggest 1/8 for countertops because of the purpose of the top and having the least amount of absorbent material, against the greater flat/flush surface that a counter top should be. Without knowing at all, your tile, or design, I also prefer a tile style that has bullnose sold in the same style allowing a back splash, and counter top edge/facing. I can't recall the name of REVERSE bullnose, but it would be used where the countertop, butts/meets the back splash. You may get suggestions that ramble, as I am, about sealing the grout, and you should be using a poly blend mortar and grout anyway. I'm not strictly opposed to sealers, but they do become a regular, life long process, and I am opposed to any surface finishes that come in contact with food. Obviously cutting boards work. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
Q:The shiny surface ceramic tile is set unto a cement slab - it has been there 15 years or more with no cracks. Do I need to rough up the surface before I set the tile- if so how? I have tried sanding it (60 grit), wire brushing it - there is no effect on the surface. Also I live in a small town - we do have a Home Depot - do they sell a good bonding agent? If so what? Thank-you for your answer!
To go over tile I ve used both Flex Bond and VesaBond thinset made by Custom Building products, Both are usually sold at Home Depot.. One suggestion when tiling over tile, allow a few extra days drying time before any foot traffic on the new tile . Moisture has no where to go when doing this and extra drying time IS required. Do NOT add a latex additive if you use a polymer type thin set, only a latexed based thin set.. No sanding is generally needed, just a clean , oil and grease free tile. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:My house has shake roof. We plan to reroof this summer. Please let me know advantages and disadvantages of metal tile vs ceramic lieght weith tiles. Thanks!
There are clay, concrete and wood/cement fiber roof tiles, but I am not familiar with ceramic unless you are referring to the ceramic granules that are used to surface some brands of metal tiles. Metal tiles are durable, cost efficient and light weight. The ones with the ceramic granules will reflect more heat than the crushed stone ones, but the ceramic colors will fade more than the natural stone. Clay tiles are light weight and will last a lifetime, unless broken from impact, but you will pay dearly for the real clay. Clay is the color of the natural soil that is is made from so the color doesn't fade. Concrete is very heavy and is usually painted, so the finish eventually weathers off and you see the typical gray concrete color coming through. Since the concrete is so heavy, most structures require added support to firm up the roof deck. There are lighter weight concrete tiles available, but these are made with wood fiber filler and break very easily. Most structures will need framing support added for these also. For the best price, metal tile is a very good choice and most will have a manufacturers warranty for 50 years
Q:How to look at tile quality?
Home decoration to buy tiles in general to buy the principle is: a look, two listen, three drops of water, four feet. First, look at the appearance. The color of the tile should be uniform, the surface finish and the flatness is better, the surrounding rules, the pattern is complete, from a box out of four or five pieces to see whether the color difference, deformation, missing angle and other defects. Second, listen to the sound. With a hard light flick, the sound the more crisp, the higher the degree of porcelain, the better the quality. You can also left thumb, index finger and middle finger clip tiles corner, easily hanging down, with the right hand index finger tapping the lower part of the tile, such as the sound clear, sweet for the top grade, such as the sound boring, stagnant turbidity for the next product. Third, the drip test. Can be the water droplets in the back of the tile, watching the water spread after the infiltration of the speed, in general, the slower the water, indicating that the greater the density of the tile; the other hand, the faster water, indicating the density of sparse, the inherent quality of the former is excellent. Four feet The higher the accuracy of the tile side, the better the effect after paving, buy high-quality tiles is not only easy to construction, but also save man-hours and accessories. With the tape measure the size of each tile around the difference between the high accuracy of the top grade. In addition, observe the hardness, the tiles to good hardness, toughness, not easy to rot on top grade. To the edge of the tile fragments scratches each other to see the broken pieces of broken pieces is fine or loose, is hard, brittle or softer, is left scratches, or scattered powder, if the former is the top grade, the latter is quality difference.
Q:I want to know if it‘s necessary to use any special underlayment, or any additional steps required to successfully lay ceramic tile over a wood plank floor. Thanks!
The right way to do it would be to remove the flooring and lay down some hardi backer or some cement board. However - if your wood floor is very very flat, and you consider the areas where that wood floor + the thickness of your tile meets up with other floor surfaces (e.g. carpeting or door door thresholds), it might be the easiest thing to do. Tile is a lot of fun. Don't skimp on making the right cuts and be sure to use spacers. Depending on what kind of tile you use - go with a smaller (1/4 or less) spacer so you have less cleanup with your grout. [Edit - I definitely agree with Crazy Man below. The waterproofing layer is a definite! Make sure you give it adequate time to dry, and then make sure you let the mud (adhesive) dry completely before grouting.] You might also consider something other than ceramic tiles, although there are some newer styles that are quite nice. A sealed porcelain tile or slate looks so nice.

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