Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A340

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1683 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm, CMAX3A340 is one of the popular models of 300*300 mm glazed floor tile, which is wildly used for floor of kitchen and bathroom as well as balcony and bedroom. These tiles could create an antique feel of classic European life, just like living in the old times of nature and pastoral life.  

 

Product Features

  Glazed Floor Tile

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on glazing, water absorption rate as well as color shade and straigtness

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Dry-Pressed Tile, Silk Printing Glazed Surface

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 3% -- 6%

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  11pcs/Ctn, 18.5kg/Ctn,1472Ctns/20’Fcl, 1457.28m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A340

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A340

Glazed Floor Tile 300*300mm Item No. CMAX3A340

 

FAQ

 

1.   For the delivery term, could you go with CFR our port?

—— Yes, of course. We have very good relationship with those big shipping company, such as China Shipping, MSC, HPL etc.

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For some special model, if its production is not arranged frequently, the MOQ is 5 containers. 

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Q:installing ceramic tile?
first of all measure ur bathroom and calculate how many square meters u need. Then decide on your tile layout (where u want the tiles to start and end.) normally you want to have full tiles in visible areas and have the cut tiles in less visible areas (behind doors, under basin cabinet, behind toilet) You should check ur levels to make sure the water runs to the floor drain, and if there is no floor drain make sure it runs to one area that is accesible to dry. Make sure it doesnt run towards the door and that you dont get multiple puddles. If the levels are not already done you will need to apply a screed of concrete (no coarse aggregate) and trowl it to the desired levels. Once that is set you decide on what type of binding agent (glue or mortar) that best suites your needs. pick a starting point (a corner in which u would use a whole tile) and as you go keep checking ur levels to maintain the correct slope for the water. You will probably need a tile cutting tool for area where you cant use a whole tile. That is just a basic idea of what ull need to do.
Q:What can I expect behind the tiles?
If the tiles go all the way around the room, measure up 4' at each corner. Use a chalk line or level to make a horizontal line around the room. All hardware below this line should be removed. Towel bars, heat register covers, cabinets, toilet, door trim, etc. If the wall is drywall, you could cut along this line with a drywall hand saw. If you have access to a sawzall (reciprocating saw), the process will go quick. (If you're handy, you should have this tool). To avoid cutting wires, pipes, pay close attention when cutting. Lay tool against wall in line with chalk line. Start blade, slowly, then lower blade to line. Now tilt blade inward. CAUTION. Go only as deep as needed to penetrate wall. If you go deeper, you risk cutting wires or plumbing. Now pull saw along line around perimiter of room. Safety glasses are recommended during cuttiing and removal. Use hammer to make hole in wall just below cut line. Using Gloves, pull sections of drywall and tile by hand as much as possible. If screws remain in the studs hit with a hammer at a 45% angle. they should break off. If it's nails, you should pull them. Floor tiles will come up with a flat pry bar and a hammer. Just pick a spot along an edge. Use a couple sharp blows with hammer to start, then use flat bar and hammer to peel out floor tile and grout. Hope this motivates you to go for it.
Q:tiling with 16x16 tiles in kitchen that is 14x22?
Flexbond has the same consistency as other thin sets. So it isn't any harder to work with. As far as applying it to the back of the tiles and the floor, I typically don't. If you have high or low spots in the sub floor, use an appropriate floating material to feather those spots out before you lay any tile. You can use something as simple as a 4' level and just lay it on the floor moving it in every direction to look for high/low spots. That is the only reason to apply it to the back side, to fill low spots. Use a 1/2 notched trowel to spread the flexbond. The key is to not make it too soupy when you mix it. If you do, the thin set tends to drop some, typical to air out of a balloon (if that makes sense to you). That will be what makes tiles not adhere fully. You can tell this by tapping on the tile the next day. You will here the hollow sound. If you have that scenario, remove that tile and reset it before grouting. Here's a tip to make the grouting easier. Keep a bucket of water and sponge with you as you lay the tile. Wipe the excess flexbond off the tiles and from the spots between the tiles where the grout will be. If the flexbond is down 1/4 from the top of the tile, that's fine.
Q:crackling sound under my cermamic tiles?
Hi there, in my opinion to improve, restore, and maintain the appearance of your ceramic tile you have to use the Tenax product because it is designed specifically for treated materials because 2 month before I have got the same problem so I search on a net for ceramic tile I got one which better than the other ceramic tile companies I call them and purchase Tenax product for my ceramic tile when I use it you really don’t believe the sound of crackling in my tile didn’t come by using of Tenax product so from my point of view I prefer the Tenax product so If you were interested visit the website which is given below.
Q:can glass shelves be used as wall tiles?
=== 1st the wall tiles or any tile needs to have the porous back to apply the grout and adhere to both surfaces ==== and no you cannot use glass... it will fall off the wall and even if you paint the back side of the glass it still will not work... if you
Q:Tile Calculation Help!!?
i think you need to measure the size of your tile again .a 9 inch tile is very very uncommon I have been doing tile for many years and never have layed 9 inch tile there is 6 inch 8 inch and the most common will be your 12 inch tile you need to check
Q:probablity question: there are 5 red tileds, 4 blue tiles......?
there are 12 tiles altogether probability of getting blue tile first is 4/12 but then there will be only 11 tiles so there is a probability of getting a red tile second is 4/11 so, 4/12 times by 4/11 which equals 4/33
Q:How to tile a basement bathroom floor?
I tile every day of my life and since the paint is assumed to be part of some aesthetic over concrete, you can scuff it with a wire brush, belt sander, grinder, cleaning all debris. Beyond that, concrete, unless sealed, is a prime substrate for tile/mortar. Certainly you should check for level, as in depressions or any rise, then proceed as is standard Measure snap two perpendicular center lines adjust those lines for cuts and the least waste work from deep in to an exit point test level with a level or hand use a 1/4 in. toothed rectangular trowel to spread mortar use a poly based mortar use rubber spacers at 1/4 or 1/8 inch do not press aggressively save cuts and cut installs for last and do not attempt to kneel on tiles installed to add a piece missed perhaps remove cove base if it exists to replace later wait no less than 24 hours for dry/set time use Poly blend grout of you choice in color mix both mortar and grout to mashed potato consistency fill grout spaces after removing spacers use a rectangular rubberized spreader/squeegie wipe with a barely damp sponge first time then in 2 or 3 re-wipes as the grout sets you can increase dampness (grout sets faster than mortar) by the third wipe of grout excess you should be ok and notice upon drying a DUST that can easily be mopped away after the fact. allow 24 hrs for grout dry/set If you have a pedestal sink, pull it. Pull the toilet as well Tile to the sewage drain flange and replace with a new wax ring with a rubber flange extender embedded. Mop clean after two days and enjoy Steven Wolf Just my two sense
Q:Sub-floor in addition before vinyl tile?
I think your bigger problem would be moisture. If this is in a basement there's a good chance that moisture could seep beneath the tiles and make the glue separate. A subfloor will significantly add to the cost, but it would keep the basement warmer, and lessen the chance of damage to the tiles. Be sure you build the subfloor out of treated wood though, or you could have rot/termites/many more problems.
Q:can I put 12 inch ceramic tile over 16 inch ceramic tiles?
I don't think I would, if it is a shiny glazed tile in place now, There wont be a bond between the old and new tiles. If the current tile is a rough slate tile, maybe. Check the recommendations of the manufacturer of the tile you want to install. Another option is to install 1/4 inch concrete backerboard over the existing tile, but it should be screwed down and that's a real chore in your situation. Maybe the manufacturer knows of a type of mortar that will work on those smooth existing tiles (assuming they are smooth). I recommend you to hire a professional if you can hire. I recommend a company ciciliot who are very professional in this regard.

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