Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAXYD001
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1209.6
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Product Brief Introduction
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAXYD001 is a very popular color in the present market. Just like other models, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its stone like surface, being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.
Product Features
Full Polished Porcelain Tile, high glossy
Grade AAA available only
Strict quality control system on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing
Much more competitive price
Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet
Fast production arrangement
OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement
Comprehensive marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing
Professional sales team available for the whole order operation process
Product Specification
Tile Type: Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile
Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001
Water Absorption Rate: 《0.5%
Breaking Strength: 》 1800 N
Rupture Modulus: 》40 MPa
Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%
Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%
Edge Straightness: ±0.15%
Wearing Strength: 《1600 mm3
Glossiness: 》 90 Degree
Resistance to Chemical: Class UA
Resistance to Staining: Class 3.
Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)
For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, , 35KgS/Ctn, 36 Ctns/Pallet, 780 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1123.2 m2/20’Fcl
For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 56Kgs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 500 Ctns/20’Fcl, 960 m2/20’Fcl
Production Line & Package
FAQ
1. What is the delivery time after we paid the deposit?
—— Normally, we shall get all items ready for loading within 3 weeks after we get the deposit or the formal Letter of Credit. For orders which demand cutting job, it will take a longer time.
2. Could you put some samples in the container of our orders?
—— Yes. We’d like to offer free samples in the containers to our clients, with a certain quantity of different models.
3. What is the MOQ for this tile?
—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For those models whose production could be arranged frequently, we could mix 2 or 3 models in one container.
- Q:We have a two sink bathroom set up would like to replace the counter-top with a homemade tile counter-top - we are pretty handy but have not dealt with tile before - and before I ask my dad for help I thought why not check out yahoo answers. Thanks! :)
- Pic tile first. Some offer bull nose for edge some don't. Figure out design, edges, corners, splash gard, sq. ft. etc. before purchase. Buy 10% extra for cutting waste. Pic a tile separator width and grout to match tile. Be sure to use a tile trowel it will hell in thickness of quickset when placing tiles. GL
- Q:Just moved into a house with tile floors, I have fiber mopped, stick-vac‘d, wet mopped them and they still feel gritty on my bare feet. Anyone have any suggestions or will they always feel dirty?
- cleansing hardwood flooring or tile will greater effective than probably be the comparable, cleansing smart. My very own determination is hardwood. They do would desire to be wiped sparkling alot and you will experience any speck of dirt on them. I even have tile flooring in my kitchen and this is the comparable way. Sorry i do no longer think this helps. compromise get the two, my residing house has hardwood flooring for the era of and then interior the kitchen and bathing room we've tile.
- Q:I am having carpet professionally install, but would like to tile my dinning area. Should I install the tiles first? And how should I leave the transition area of the tile?
- I would have the tiles installed first since it's a messy job. They have to use quick set, grout, cut tiles and etc. so no matter who does it, it's still messy. Then you don't have to worry about protecting your new carpet with some tarps. Usually in the tile section somewhere of home improvement stores there is metal transition pieces you can buy for 2 or 3 bucks that you just nail into the floor.
- Q:I have travertine tile in my bathroom that apparently wasn‘t sealed properly. Now it has water stains that are visible when viewed from an angle. It‘s ugly and I can‘t get rid of them. Any suggestions?
- Try steam cleaning
- Q:For some reason I‘m having a hard time finding a good DIY instruction page on how to remove floor tile. Half of them are about removing just one damaged tile and the rest all have different methods. Some say to place a towel on top of it and smash with something, others have different machines. I‘m not really sure where to start. The space is about 5‘ x 5‘ and the tiles are the tiny kind, like 1 sq. inch each. What tools do I need? Do people usually tile underneath wooden vanities? Will I have to take it up? Help!
- First stop should be a Home Depot or Revy or whatever building supplier you have near you. They will know and have the tools you might need and could give good advice on the easiest removal. Unfortunately there are no magically easy ways to do this. If you are able to attack an edge, good for you. Use a good, sturdy scraper. Perhaps even one that you will be able to use a hammer on the end of. Then it is just simply a matter of elbow grease and determination. Actually, a 5' X 5' space will come off fairly quickly once you get started. If you are not able to start at an edge, you will have to make one by chiselling out a few tiles until you can get your sturdy scraper working again. just scrape a few grout lines and pry out some tiles. Please wear safety glasses and gloves throughout this whole procedure. These things will chip and have very sharp edges. The next part is to be sure that you scrape off all of the thinset (glue) that was holding the tiles down. You are now almost ready to re-tile, if that is your goal. If it is, then just be sure that the area is solid and clean and you are good to go. As for tiling under a vanity . . . some do and some don't. New home bulders certainly don't in order to keep costs down. It certainly is not necessary as long as the vanity will be the right height after you are done. There could be a 1/4 to 1/2 inch height difference due to the thickness of the tiles. Hope this helps. George
- Q:We recently had new porcelain tile installed on our guest bath floor, and we‘d like to clean it regularly without harming the tiles and grout. The tile installer had no recommendations about this process, nor did the tile company where we made the purchase. Researching this info is very confusing. Some sites recommend using only a wet mop, while others claim that vinegar diluted in water is appropriate; others advise using some type of manufactured cleaning product. We know that regular sweeping is necessary, but we‘re unsure which products to use to protect our new floor. If you suggest a wet mop, please advise which is best: Shark, Eureka, Bissell, etc. Thanks for any detailed advice you can provide.
- Hpofully the grout was seald. If tou have hard water you will get calcium buids up on porcelan.One way is Muratic acid (pool acid) deluted 10 to 1 The safe way is a pumas stone scrubber you can buy at any pool store. The vinigar will work but not as well. Lime away is also a good cleaner if you have hard water. If your installer didnt seal your grout do this first , the tile supplier can supply this. B^
- Q:I want to remove my carpet in the bedroom. I know about pulling it up and all that but what I don‘t know is what the next step is after it‘s totally up. I want to put down tile I‘m not sure if I want to put down ceramic or just the plain old sticky tile. my question is can i put tile down directly on the floor boards. I don‘t think that there is hardwood underneath i just see like plywood or whatever that board is called. Is there anything specific that needs to be done to the floor before tiling?
- While the peel and stick will stick to the floor, I'd still recommend an underlayment. Underlayment properly put down will even out the rough spots on the floor. The subfloor, directly over the joists, is probably structurewood or commonly called OSB. You could use plywood or fiberrock. Stagger the seams of the underlayment with the seams of the subfloor. For example, if the first sheet of underlayment will land on the seam, cut it in half so the remainder of the seams will stagger, hopefully that makes sense. If you go with ceramic tile, there is one method that go directly on top of structurewood. It requires a special prep, adhesive and grout. And it is definitely not for the novice. It is uses TEC's 1step mortar. It may not even be available in your market. Google TEC 1 step But for the novice, no offense, I recommend using either backerboard or Duro-Rock. You spread, thinset mortar, doesn't need to be latex modified for underlayment, set the board, nail with roofing nails or screw. The instructions are available on line. But nail or screw every 4 along the edges and 8 in the middle. Use the fiberglass tape before you set tile. This should latex modified. There are different ways people like to do this. Some say as you tile, some just stick the tape down and skim the top. What I like is to skim a thin layer over the seams, put the tape down, then make sure there are no ridges. Let sit over night. That way the next day, I can pop lines, and set tile. As far as setting tile, it easy to do when you know what you are doing. It also easy to screw it up when don't know what you are doing. I've seen novices screw it up pretty bad. If you know someone that has tiled before, I hope you get some help. With perhaps a thousand dollars of material on the line, it will be well worth a free lunch and a couple beers at the end of the day.
- Q:How easy is it to tile a kitchen floor. Plus would you lay the tiles directly onto the concrete sub floor or lay concrete boards or chipboards underneath. I would also like to continue this to the hallway and under stairs. Thanks.
- Depending on the age of the cement subfloor, it would be my first choice, even if I had to prep it first to insure a good bond. Definitely not cement board, it's not designed or engineered to be walked on, the results downstream would be disastrous. There is a grade of board specifically called underlayment, and it would be my second choice. It needs to be nailed down to cement subfloor about every 6 inches in both directions, very tedious. Not so bad on wood, can be screwed down.This is not hard job, just hard work. Hands and knees, get up to cut a piece, back down to hands and knees. Spread mortar or adhesive, set tile, check for level, spread - set - level, over and over. And level in both directions, North - South, and East - West, and level from tile to tile as well. Really good tile setters make very good money. Very important for you to know: floor tile is thicker than wall tile. It should be 3/8 inch minimum, or 9 mm. Wall tile is generally thinner, and will crack under the stress of weight on it.
- Q:we are constructing apartment....got a question about tile work..which is better, is it better to leave some gaps between tiles and is it better layout tiles with no gaps between them...the builder is suggesting the first option above...i prefer the second option...because with the first option, i feel there are chances of dirt getting clogged as time passess by...please advise
- Well sealed seams between tiles will make it easy to clean.
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Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAXYD001
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1209.6
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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