Cu- CuNi (Constantan) thermocouple (Type T) A quality

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100000 m

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m/month

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Specifications

1.Pass: ISO9001 certification
2.fine after-sale services
3.small order accepted
4.samples available
5.short delivery time

Cu-Ni resistance heating wire and strips
electrothermal resistance wires
copper nickel electrical alloy wires and strips
resistance alloy wires or strips
electrical wires
copper nickel resistance  alloy
copper nickel wires and strips

1. Introduction
The copper-based low resistance heating alloy is widely used in low-voltage circuit breaker, thermal overload relay, and other low-voltage electrical product. It is one of the key materials of the low-voltage electrical products. The materials produced by our company have the characteristics of good resistance consistency and superior stability. We can supply all kinds of round wire, flat and sheet materials.

2.Marking
Each spool/package of alloy is supplied with a label or tag showing alloy type, nominal size, tare and net weight, resistance W/m (W/ft), charge number and a reference number.

3.size
wires:0.018-10mm                   Ribbons:0.05*0.2-2.0*6.0mm
Strips:0.5*5.0-5.0*250mm       Bars:D10-100mm

Do you provide free samples?
Yes, we can provide a free sample for testing, If we have sample in stock, The quantity based on the material type, The buyer should bear all the shipping costs.

Please feel free to send us a inquiry and we are looking forward to cooperating with you!

FACTORY
Low Resistivity Cuni Alloy Wires (Cuni10)

PACKING

Characteristic Grade	Resistivity ( 200C μΩ.m)	Max.working Temperature ( 0C)	Tensile Strength (Mpa)	Melting point (0C)	Density ( g/cm3)	TCR x10-6/ 0C (20~600 0C)	EMF vs Cu (μV/ 0C) (0~100 0C)
NC003 (CuNi1)	0.03	200	210	1085	8.9	<100	-8
NC005 (CuNi2)	0.05	200	220	1090	8.9	<120	-12
NC010 (CuNi6)	0.1	220	250	1095	8.9	<60	-18
NC012 (CuNi8)	0.12	250	270	1097	8.9	<57	-22
NC015 (CuNi10)	0.15	250	290	1100	8.9	<50	-25
NC020 (CuNi14)	0.2	300	310	1115	8.9	<30	-28
NC025 (CuNi19)	0.25	300	340	1135	8.9	<25	-32
NC030 (CuNi23)	0.3	300	350	1150	8.9	<16	-34
NC035 (CuNi30)	0.35	350	400	1170	8.9	<10	-37
NC040 (CuNi34)	0.4	350	400	1180	8.9	0	-39
NC050 (CuNi44)	0.5	400	420	1200	8.9	<-6	-43

Q:How is the color of the three wires?: Red is black and negative. Yellow or blue green are ground

Q:Basically, the long and the short of the story is, I had a gas leak somewhere under my house, so it was cheaper to switch my hot water heater and my stove over from gas to electric, rather than rip up my floors.I have a contractor friend doing the work, due to the fact I can't run the wiring through the attic, what's basically going to be done is run it outside, drill a hole in the wall, and plug it in there. We are using a 30amp 220 v breaker, what gauge wire should we use? The lady at Lowe's say we MUST use 6/2 wire, we MUST and she refused to sell me anything else. I called a cousin of mine who works construction, and he said an 8/2 would work. It has also been suggested that we use 10/2 My contractor friend says he would be comfy using 10/2, but if 8/2 is what I want he will go with it. The Lowe's lady says 10/2 will meltSo do I use an 8/2?Why the patchjob? because the house is going to be torn down in 3 months and a new one builtI dont want my house to burn any ideas?: 10/2 is rated for 30 amps. (It'll be 10/3 actually, if you're in the US, because 220 volts requires 2 hot feeds and one neutral, one ground) The lady is full of **** and/or trying to rip you off by making you spend a LOT more per foot of wire. I'd also suggest running it through conduit for the outside part, but since you're tearing the place down in 3 months, it's not going to decay from sunlight in that short of a time. And don't worry about the length of the run, you're not going to be going far enough for significant enough resistance to raise the amperage. As it is , 10-3 is rated for 30 amps, but can often handle 40 amps peak. And your stove is not going to be pulling 30 amps continuously, if at all, otherwise it would constantly be tripping the breaker. Considering the price of copper now, the price difference between 10 ga and 86 ga is NOT insubstantial enough to just go with the larger gauge. Especially when it's not remotely necessary. EDIT: Like the guy below pointed out, check your stove. If it is a 40 amp, you will need to use 8/3- and should definitely put it on a separate circuit from you water heater, because using both at once will draw too much current and trip the breaker. My range/oven is 40 amp, and the circuit it's on at the new house here is 40 amps, so your mileage may vary. Electric stoves have gotten a lot more efficient over the years.

Q:Hi, I have installed a 200 amp service entrance. I am in the process of attaching it to the grounding rod. What size cable should I use? I was told that a size 8 wire is ok, as long as it is protected. However, I was also told that I should go with a size 4. Can I use the protected 8 or am I better off going with the 4? Are there any advantages of using one over the other? Thanks for your time,pb4sc: you are much better off with the 4 it will hold a larger current

Q:What is the difference between observing field wires, winter and summer? why? What should you watch if you set up a wire in the summer?: Into the line do not know, may refer to the building of the weak line into the line room

Q:i reqd. cost of wires,switches,distribution boards, circuit breakers, sockets,plugs,plug pins,cables etc i.e. the total material required for electrical installation of domestic building commercial building,as well as industrial wiring: Each installation would be unique. It would depend on the size and complexity of the the job, local cost of materials and labor, etc. Commercial jobs especially are usually bid by several firms and the bids can be quite complex. In many cases, the installation also includes data and communication wiring. Are you including that? Basically, your question can't be answered with the supplied information.

Q:i have to do all 20 chapters and I was wondering if there was a site where I could find all the answers for each chapter and not read the book?only relpy if you know of a site that could do that for methanks: This is a VERY scary question! Please, post your full name and address so that I don't hire you by accident to do any electrical wiring in MY house!

Q:I am trying to completely remove a dishwasher. I don't want to replace it, just remove it and convert the space to shelf space. The electrical is hardwired to the dishwasher. I already have the breaker off and it can stay off indefinitely. How do I cap the wire ends so it will be safe if someone accidentally turns the breaker back on and those go live? Should I just use wire nuts? Thanks: You can use wire nuts but I have a better and safer idea. Use a junction box with a cover and one entrance, one sided butt splice connectors, (you will have to crimp them on and make they are tight by giving them a little tug). Crimp on caps are much better when capping electrical wiring off; especially, where there is kids or where there is accidents bound to happen!

Q:Hello We have been running a room heater and humidifier from a bedroom wall electrical outlet for the last 4-5 months with no issue.2 days ago we noticed a burning/melting plastic smell when we ran the appliances for 10-15 mins. I checked the wall outlet after removing its cover and visually looks OK i.e. no blackening. I have not removed the actual sockets. Also, the appliances themselves seem to be OK i.e. no smell from them.Could the issue be in the wiring inside a wall? How to determine this? The smell seems to starts when we use this particular outlet only.If problem is not in outlet, then will the wall need to be broken into to determine the source of the problem? Is there a more sophisticated solution?What could have caused this sudden issue? A rodent? Water leakage thru the siding? Other ideas?Note that the circuit breakers have not tripped during this time to indicate overload etc.Thanks in advance for your opinions.Homeowner_ne: Burning Smell From Electrical Outlet

Q:First time soldering, I guess wires got too hot or I touched it with the soldering iron and the ends are now melted a bit. I put the heat shrink wrap over top the splice spot. Think they'll be alright?: heat okorder

Q:How to use the omnipotent amount of electricity leakage of the wire How to check whether the wire leakage: The bottom of the user's groove and the design of the tail and tail, so that the product will not move firmly at the bottom

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