Concentric Butterfly Valve DN150

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Material List:

No.	Part Name	Material
1	Body	Carbon Steel/Stainless Steel/Cast Iron/Ductile Iron/ Al-Bronze
2	Disc	Al-Bronze/CF8M/Ductile iron/WCB
3	Seat	EPDM/PEFE/Buna/NBR/Hypalon
4	Stem	Carbon Steel/Stainless Steel314/Stainless Steel316
5	Bushing	PTFE/Lubricating
6	O ring	EPDM/PEFE/Buna/NBR/Hypalon
7	Pin	SS316/SS416/SS304

Standard:

DIN PN10/16/25; ANSI B 16.1
BS4504; ISO PN10/16
JIS B 2212/2213
BS 10 table D; BS 10 table E

Features:

1. Small in size, light in weight, easy installation and maintenance.

2. Simple and compact construction, quick 90 degree on-off operation.

3. Minimized operating torque, energy saving.

4. Flow curve tending to straight line, excellent regulation performance.

5. Long service life, standing the test of tens thousands opening/closing operations.

6. BUbbles-tight sealing with no leakage ubder the pressure test.

7. Wide selection of materials, applicable to various medium.

Q: What is motor operated valve (MOV) please answer me if anybody have experiance in instrumentation filed, please explain overhauling and troble shooting: Mov Valve

Q: I had to replace the seat washers/stems etc in order for the constant drips from the kitchen faucet to stop. It did; but when i went under the sink to turn the water valves back on, the hot water valve felt as something inside it went smooth??? i can turn the hot water valve left and right but nothing is happening. No hot water at all from the kitchen faucet..Also there's low water pressure from the cold water that only came about when I tried to turn the hot water back on from the valve underneath the sink: Unfortunately most valves used today are made of plastic that only look like metal on the outside. Sounds to me like you and I live in the same house. I have to replace four different shut off valves because they are stripped. I am working on the kitchen one right now. Stripped Valve with no cold water and very little pressure in the other valve. If you ever have one replaced by a plumber, insist on all metal valves. I will physically inspect them from now on before they replace them. Once stripped nothing you can do but put a new one on.

Q: I got a cold air intake installed on my vehicle and don't have any AEM bypass valve installed, for preventing hydrolock. If I drill a small hole(e.g 1cm) on the intake(short ram section) can that prevent hydrolock or do I still have to get one of those bypass valves?I'm looking for any alternatives, instead of those AEM bypass valves and was wondering if drilling a small hole in the cold air intake could help in preventing hydrolock, just as good as the AEM bypass valve.: This would not need a bypass valve. Short answer, NEVER drill holes in your intake behind the filter.

Q: Hi.. I was looking forward to install an electric supercharger for my 2 litre non turbo engine.This unit is driven by an electric motor instead of being mechanically driven.My question is if I can install a blow off valve in between the supercharger and the inlet manifold? Will it work?: Electronic Blow Off Valve

Q: When you regulate flow with a valve in a fluid circuit, obviously the flow changes. But mathematically, it changes in function to what? the minimum cross-sectional area? I mean it has to have something to do with some integral of sth (since a valve can change the cross-sectional area of a portion of the tube with length of almost zero and the flow would still change dramatically). I have no idea how to work this through. Can you tell me what changes when you close a valve, which makes the total flow change?Please answer asprecisely as possible, this is for a college essay! thanks in advance!: A valve reduces the cross-section of the pipe. .

Q: Hi, I'd like to control a three way solenoid valve like this one:understanding is that an electric current through the solenoid will cause the valve to let air one way while no electric current will have the air flow the other. Is there a piece of equipment like a control box (that can communicate w/ a computer) that would allow me to control the solenoid valve like this? and if so, where would i be able to find something like this....i've googled but no success. I eventually want to control the valve from a computer. Thanks: www.okorder /

Q: need a different pump for? Is this some improvement on the old valve?: first off they are not new ;-) These two standards have been around a long time. valve stems come in two types, schaeder and presta. Now i sometimes get these mixed up but I think Presta is the narrower valve. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me ;-) Either way there are these two types. Here we are referring to width/diameter not length. the thicker valves are usually on mountain bikes, some comfort bikes. the thinner narrower valves are usually on road bikes, some cross bikes, the type with skinny tires. Most bike pumps these days whether floor pump to mini pump will work for *both* Schaeder and Presta. The valve end on your pump (unless it's a piece of c*^ from Wallmart) SHOULD simply unscrew, reverses and voila! You can now pump up the tires of your MTB and your road bike or help another rider out! Now, on to your actual question ;-) Sorry for the drift. the long valve stems have to do with Aero wheels. These are rims, usually carbon that are designed to be very narrow and literaly slice the wind for faster acceleration. these are usually road bike rims, the skinny tires. Examples of Aero rims would be like Rolf Elan. Because of the design of the aero rim a longer valve stem is needed or it would literaly be lost within the carbon rim. But you don't have to have aero rims to have a tube with a longer stem. The stems on most tires are available in long, short, medium. I like to have the length match, it's just an aesthetic thing. But the function is exactly the same and the difference in weight is negligable. So to sumarise if you have aero rims you *must* choose tubes with a longer valve stem. If you don't have aero rims you can use them if you like, doesn't really matter, it's all what you like. but you do not need a different pump.

Q: my mid eighties GM full size car with a 305 just started to have a problem...it runs fine at idle.....runs rough/sluggish at speed......when I take my foot off the gas there is a fast rattle in the engine.........and sometimes the engine likes to idle fast.....I replaced the catalytic converter last year ...........so now I am thinking of changing the egr valve....there is no service engine soon light on and this car is a mid eighties so no obd 2 system on this car......any other ideas? thanks: EGR valve got sooty,and rusty and dirty and then they dont work right. They either dont open or they get stuck open and cause the car to run lousey. If the valve has been i the car since the 80's it is probably about time to either clean it or change it. do you have haynes or chilton manual for the car? they explain alot.

Q: When I went to cardiologist he said i had normal EKG, excellent blood work high HDl 58, low triglycerides only 51, and LDL was like 71, ejection fraction of 65% he said I was fine but he said I had mild mitral valve prolapse. DO I have to worry abt the mitral valve prolapse? Im healthy and can I live a normal long life any opinions?I dont smoke, dont do drugs, no family history of Heart problems just some cholesterol but mine is low so Im good: In 95 plus percent of cases so-called mitral valve prolapse is a normal variant. If yours was other than a normal variant your cardiologist should have discussed this with you. As such I would not worry. JR

Q: why do new motorcycles need to get their valves shimed alot? can someone explain how the whole valve adjusting thing works? why do some engine types require more attention? i have owned thumpers my whole life and never really thought about it. i was looking at this like cheap beater bike (hyosung gt250 v twin) and i read the valves need to be checked like 3 times in a short span, wtf??: Valves have to have some clearance when the engine is cold so that as the stems expand the valves will still close all the way. Most of the wear in the valve train occurs at the valve and seat, as the seat tends to recede and the valve pulls further into the head.(SOHC and OHV designs may also wear in the rocker arms and bushings, which tends to open the valve clearances, usually not as quickly as valve seat wear, however.) As an inevitable result of this wear at the seat/valve juncture, the gap between the valve stem (or bucket or shim) and the cam lobe (or rocker arm) tends to close down. If the gap is too small, the valve may not close all the way when the engine is warm. If the valve does not have enough contact with the seat, it cannot transfer heat away, and may erode. There can also be a loss of compression if the valve cannot close. This wear happens most rapidly with a new engine and the valve clearances tend to close up relatively quickly. As the parts bed in, clearances tend to stabilize. That is why the first one or two valve adjustments are most important.

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