Q:I want to lay ceramic tile in the entry way of my townhome. It‘s about 80 sq ft. The house originally came with a generic white vinyl flooring that I swear is officially a part of the concrete slab it lays on. Because it is so firmly attached (no bubbles, no visible defects of any kind) would it be possible to lay the ceramic tiles over the vinyl? I honestly think it‘s going to take more time to rip up that flooring (and the glue that keeps it down) than it will laying the tile. Thoughts? Thanks!

No, okorder /

Q:I am tiling my bathroom and in the process of re-tiling the shower stall. I removed the old plastic liner there and now some of the glue remains on the greenboard. Also, some of the green part of the board is ripped of from when the glue came off with the old liner. Some of the paper is flakey in spots. I pulled off some of the loose pieces, but there is more. Now, I‘m an amateur. I was told to use some grout sealer to go over the greenboard. However, since there are flakey pieces of paper from the greenboard on there still, should I simply remove as much as I can before sealing and tiling? Will the seal glue these flakey pieces down and make them secure for tiling? What is your advice? Many thanks!

If you have gone that far, I would either tear out the greenboard and replace it with cement board, or you might be able to cement board right over the greenboard. The cement board will outlast the next 50 familys that will use that bathroom. It is great stuff, well worth the effort. Don't try patching the greenboard, it is not worth the effort. Do it right and be done with it forever.

Q:I would like to know what steps to take to prepare the concrete floor for ceramic tile. Part of the floor is cement and part is painted. Do I have to prepare the painted portion before tiling?

I tile every day of my life and since the paint is assumed to be part of some aesthetic over concrete, you can scuff it with a wire brush, belt sander, grinder, cleaning all debris. Beyond that, concrete, unless sealed, is a prime substrate for tile/mortar. Certainly you should check for level, as in depressions or any rise, then proceed as is standard Measure snap two perpendicular center lines adjust those lines for cuts and the least waste work from deep in to an exit point test level with a level or hand use a 1/4 in. toothed rectangular trowel to spread mortar use a poly based mortar use rubber spacers at 1/4 or 1/8 inch do not press aggressively save cuts and cut installs for last and do not attempt to kneel on tiles installed to add a piece missed perhaps remove cove base if it exists to replace later wait no less than 24 hours for dry/set time use Poly blend grout of you choice in color mix both mortar and grout to mashed potato consistency fill grout spaces after removing spacers use a rectangular rubberized spreader/squeegie wipe with a barely damp sponge first time then in 2 or 3 re-wipes as the grout sets you can increase dampness (grout sets faster than mortar) by the third wipe of grout excess you should be ok and notice upon drying a DUST that can easily be mopped away after the fact. allow 24 hrs for grout dry/set If you have a pedestal sink, pull it. Pull the toilet as well Tile to the sewage drain flange and replace with a new wax ring with a rubber flange extender embedded. Mop clean after two days and enjoy Steven Wolf Just my two sense

Q:I just finished laying tile in my shower. How long do I need to wait before I grout? If it makes any difference they are simple 4 inch white tiles.Also, just out of curiosity, I was told I needed to spread the adhesive on the wall and place the tiles over that. It seems like it would have been easier to apply the adhesive to the back of the tiles. Especially the last few tiles. Does this make any difference?

I put adhesive on wall as base and lightly spread adhesive onto back of tile to help create stronger bond. Follow adhesive instructions for grouting, cure times vary with adhesives. Better to wait than not to have adhesive set and wind up with moisture troubles and loose tiles from adhesion loss.

Q:Okay the apartment i live in was built in the 60‘s and unfortunately everything is completely out of date. Trying to get the maintnence people out is more of a hastle than help. So im trying to do this myself. The stuff inbetween the tiles no matter how hard i scrub with scrubbing bubbles and kaboom and everything doesnt come clean this yuckiness is all over lining the tub and all tiles. Does anyone have any ideas on how i can fix this what to use or if i need to regrout how do i do this ? thanks

go to your local hardware store and ask for a grout removing tool. This tool will scrape out the old grout and then you can renew it.

Q:Does floor tile give a lot of heat? I want to get a tile substrate for my leopard gecko, but I don‘t know if it will get warm enough for him. I have an under tank heater, so if I put the tile in will the heat from the under tank heater block or go through the tile?

I put a little layer of sand under my tiles to fill up any air spaces under the tiles (as they're textured to hold grout). Tiles heat up and hold heat a LOT better than pretty much any other substrate. If you want some really neat tiles, try slate. They are really natural, come in awesome colors naturally and hold heat just as well as other tiles. But there are some really nice ceramics, too. Just don't get anything overly glazed.

Q:I am currently removing old cork tiles from the floor of my house. They are stuck down to the cement and as I‘m chiselling them up I‘m being left with a lot of glue residue with fragments of the cork too. Any tips on easy removal of the old tiles, but more importantly removing the glue? We are replacing them with new ceramic floor tiles. I was thinking maybe a heat gun and a scraper to clean it up but Dad has suggested a grinder! Any experiences with fast and easy removal of residue? I‘ve still got a room of cork to remove so if there‘s a better way than hammer and chisel I‘d love to hear about it!

Oh man I feel your pain! a.Get a razor sharp floor scraper and go at it. b. Get a paint scraper and scrub the floor like you would any paint. I think you get more leverage using a hand held paint scraper. c. Last case scenario use a non oil based solvent like Acetone, or Lacquer thinner to dissolve the glue. Be sure to ventilate well so you don't get a buzz from the fumes. Good Luck!

Q:I‘m remodeling my house and was thinking of using porcelain tiles for my bathroom (floor only). What are the advantages/disadvantages of using porcelain instead of ceramic, et cetera?

Ceramic tile will show chips more than porcelain. Porcelain tile is the same throughout. Also it is good for exterior areas as it is frost proof. porcelain tile is generally harder than ceramic and may be harder to cut.

Q:dont know how much to charge to install tile backsplash on kitchen wall with 100sq/ft, please let me know am new and started in this business??

Tile is always priced by the s/f and agreeing with another poster 100 s/f is huge, 3 xs the standard back splash. I did my pricing on what was to be installed, tile or a stone product, if there was striping I charged by the linear foot. So you have to many variables to give you a price. Plus the area ( of country) you are installing and you experience will demand the price you ask. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:i have the material that is needed to tile my home but cannot pay for it to be done so i need information on how to do this

start by measuring to the center of ea room, [from each wall] use a chalk line to snap a line , so you end up with a plus + line in each room start at the corner of the plus, [square line] lay the tile, from the center out, cut the tile at the wall,s