Q:I want to lay ceramic tile in the entry way of my townhome. It‘s about 80 sq ft. The house originally came with a generic white vinyl flooring that I swear is officially a part of the concrete slab it lays on. Because it is so firmly attached (no bubbles, no visible defects of any kind) would it be possible to lay the ceramic tiles over the vinyl? I honestly think it‘s going to take more time to rip up that flooring (and the glue that keeps it down) than it will laying the tile. Thoughts? Thanks!

My parents and I recently renovated the basement in our apartment building and my father wanted to put tiles down. He does alot of home renovation work and said the best thing would be to take off the vinyl flooring... due to the cement you put under the tiles it sticks better to wood. It was my job to take the vinyl flooring off and there weren't any bumps, it was well done., I literally had to chizle at one point because I couldn't get it started and there were 3 layers of vinyl flooring!... it came off well once I got it started though.... it looks very nice now... I suggest you take it off..

Q:It‘s been a while since I have done tile, but I remember we used to use sheetrock to cover the floor or for back splash wall, however I don‘t remember what it was used for. Is there special cases when you need to use it or do I need to use it every time? What is the purpose to use the sheetrock?Please help. Thanks.

It may have been sheetrock that you remember but more than likely it was some type of special backer product that resembled Sheetrock but was made specifically for use under tile. There are several types available at Lowe's like hardibacker or durarock. Both of these products are designed to be placed on the surface to be tiled before the tile is applied and act to stiffen the substrate. In other words they make the surface that the tile goes onto into one big solid piece as opposed to several sheets of plywood. The benefit of this is that is keeps the tiles from moving in relation to each other which will cause the grout lines in between them to crack and gap. These products are generally put down, when tiling floors, on top of a layer of mortar same as you spread mortar to hold the tiles down. Ans then these backer boards are nailed down with roofing nails and the joints are mortared and usually taped like drywall joints are. Then more mortar is spread on top of these boards and the tile is set into this mortar. Floors generally use the 1/4 thick backer board and when applying on walls the 1/2 backer is used. Just nail to the studs and paint with a waterproofing paint then mortar and apply tiles. Good Luck.

Q:What is the difference between good and bad tiles

First, from the appearance of the quality of the quality of the tile: size is the standard to determine the quality of the key to the tile, with a tape or caliper to measure the diagonal and four sides of the tile size and thickness are uniform. Color difference, random out of the box to check a few, one by one comparison. There is a slight difference is a normal phenomenon. (Different batches of tiles generally contain color, it is recommended to buy a one-time purchase of the amount.) Can not have cracks, tiles appear cracks in the direction of the main lower uranium cracks, surface cracking, the general quality of the product less phenomenon. Brick to be flat, can not have bumps. The uranium layer of the brick is bright, but there are inclusions in the uranium layer or uranium layer. Followed by the inherent quality of the tile, first look at the water absorption: drop of water on the brick, see the water penetration speed. Good tiles, water droplets will roll on the brick. Listen to the sound: good tiles, sound crisp sound, indicating high porcelain content. If the sound "blah" with a stubble sound, indicating that the brick contains cracks.

Q:How does the tile stick up? The benefits of stickers? What is the difference between sticky and wet stickers? Do i want to be thin

Want to thin point will wall flatness is good, the actual tile adhesive layer is less than 1cm; most of the thickness of the leveling layer, the general construction plaster 2 m error of about 1-1.5cm, then the actual paste tile gray The thickness of the need to reach 2-2.5cm, and then thin can not be friends, or paste in the glass is very flat on the basis of

Q:Do you have, or know someone who has these tiles in the bathroom? What is their experience?

They will probably work okay as long as your surface is good so the adhesive works, but a much better product is the new type of vinyl tiles which stick to each other but not to the floor. You won't have any adhesion problems, and water cannot get between the tiles. Trafficmaster at Home Depot is one type. That is the one I have and it has been excellent. It's been in my kitchen and both bathrooms for 5 years and is showing no signs of lifting anywhere. I really don't know why anyone would bother with the old peel 'n' stick type of tile any more.

Q:The bottom row of tiles on my roof are loose.Depending on the weather(wind) I have to move the tiles back every 3 weeks as they are slipping down.How do I fix this without ripping up all the tiles just to nail down this one row?I do not have a gutter.

You don't; screw your resolve to the sticking place, then get out the ladder and hammer! - Hym Glorianus......... GL>

Q:how do you clean up ceramic tiles? they dont seem to shine but look very dull whenever i clean it with water and soap. is there a product i can use to clean them and at the same time leave them shining?

Most soaps leave a film on tiles I purchased a steam mop, just cleans the tires with steam and leaves no film or residue, they look like they did when they were first laid. See if you can borrow one from some one to give it a try. You will love it. Good Luck

Q:We want to put the same sticky tile over the existing tile just stagger them. Will that be unstable or should we remove the old ones...which seems like work lol

AS long as the old is stuck well, flat, clean of wax, should be fine . Good Luck

Q:I am looking at removing the existing wooden fire place surround (not a mantel, but some decorative wood surrounding the fireplace), and the 70‘s fireplace hearth, and replacing each with some nice slate tiles. The slate would be attached to the wall, and to the floor. Is there anything I should know when attaching (slate) tiles to a wall? Do I need to remove any paint, or can I get an adhesive that will bond (PL Premium or regular mortar mix?). How close should the grout lines be with slate? I know with marble you want them close, and with ceramic you can have some space. How do you ensure the tiles don‘t slip when attached to a vertical wall. Sorry for the questions, but I do appreciate any suggestions and answers!

you like a damp tile observed. they are in a position to be bought for approx $a hundred and fifty.00. i grow to be going to lease one (which could have been a expert style) even though it took me way better than sooner or later to diminish all the tiles, so i bought it. Works great and characteristic tiled 2 different rooms considering then.

Q:My husband and I are building a small rectangular pool and want to add some mosaic tile designs on the floor of the pool. Is there a good website that explains how this should be done or can anyone share some advice on pool bottom tile work? Is this going to be easy to do or something to leave to the professionals?

Yes, okorder /.. Hope this helps!