Bare Aluminium Annealed Binding Wire Tie Wire Price
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 5 m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m.t./month
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Specification
Material:
Galvanized Iron Wire
Cross Sectional Shape:
Round
Application:
Construction Wire Mesh
Type:
Galvanized,Steel Coll
Wild in Width:
1.1M
Surface Treatment:
galvanized
Metal Wire Drawing:
Cold Drawing
Status:
In Hard State
Thickness:
Metal Thick Wire
Galvanized Technique:
Hot Dipped Galvanized,Electro Galvanized
Bare Aluminium Annealed Binding Wire Tie Wire Price
Aluminum annealed binding wire.
Wire Guage: 1SWG~19SWG
Diameter: 1mm~5.9mm
Type: Bare
1. Application
This product is used as hanging cable, drawing cable and installation for field line, electric appliances and instruments, electronic equipment and automatic devices for electric power, chemical and so on. It is specially soft, easily folded and movable, smooth and aging resistant, high pulse staring current resistant.
2. Standard
BS 6500, BS 6004, BS 6360, BS EN 50363, IEC 60227, DIN VDE 0281.
3. Specification
450/750V PVC Insulation building wire to BS 6360
Single Core PVC Insulated
| Size of conductor | Nominal thickness of insulation mm | Mean overall diameter Upper limit mm | Approx. net weight per km kg | |
| Nominal cross-sectional area mm2 | Number and diameter of wires no./mm | |||
| 1.0 | 1/1.13 | 0.6 | 2.8 | 14 |
| 1.5 | 1/1.38 | 0.7 | 3.3 | 20 |
| 1.5 | 7/0.50 | 0.7 | 3.4 | 20 |
| 2.5 | 1/1.78 | 0.8 | 3.9 | 33 |
| 2.5 | 7/0.67 | 0.8 | 4.2 | 34 |
| 4 | 1/2.25 | 0.8 | 4.4 | 51 |
| 4 | 7/0.85 | 0.8 | 4.8 | 51 |
| 6 | 1/2.76 | 0.8 | 4.9 | 67 |
| 6 | 7/1.04 | 0.8 | 5.4 | 71 |
| 10 | 1/3.57 | 1.0 | 6.4 | 110 |
| 10 | 7/1.35 | 1.0 | 6.8 | 120 |
| 16 | 1/4.50 | 1.0 | 7.3 | 170 |
| 16 | 7/1.70 | 1.0 | 8.0 | 180 |
| 25 | 7/2.14 | 1.2 | 9.8 | 285 |
| 35 | 19/1.53 | 1.2 | 11.0 | 380 |
| 50 | 19/1.78 | 1.4 | 13.0 | 510 |
| 70 | 19/2.14 | 1.4 | 15.0 | 715 |
| 95 | 19/2.52 | 1.6 | 17.0 | 990 |
| 120 | 37/2.03 | 1.6 | 19.0 | 1230 |
| 150 | 37/2.25 | 1.8 | 21.0 | 1510 |
| 185 | 37/2.52 | 2.0 | 23.5 | 1900 |
| 240 | 61/2.25 | 2.2 | 26.5 | 2490 |
| 300 | 61/2.52 | 2.4 | 29.5 | 3050 |
| 400 | 61/2.85 | 2.6 | 33.5 | 3900 |
| 500 | 61/3.20 | 2.8 | 37.0 | 4880 |
450/750V PVC Insulated (Non-Sheathed) Flexible Conductor General Purpose Cables to BS 6004
Single Core PVC Insulated
| Size of conductor | Nominal thickness of insulation mm | Mean overall diameter Upper limit mm | Approx.net weight per km kg | |
| Nominal cross-sectional area mm2 | Number and diameter of wires no./mm | |||
| 1.0 | 32/0.20 | 0.6 | 3.0 | 16 |
| 1.5 | 30/0.25 | 0.7 | 3.5 | 21 |
| 2.5 | 50/0.25 | 0.8 | 4.2 | 33 |
| 4 | 56/0.30 | 0.8 | 4.8 | 50 |
| 6 | 84/0.30 | 0.8 | 6.3 | 70 |
| 10 | 80/0.40 | 1.0 | 7.6 | 120 |
| 16 | 126/0.40 | 1.0 | 8.8 | 175 |
| 25 | 196/0.40 | 1.2 | 11.0 | 290 |
| 35 | 276/0.40 | 1.2 | 12.5 | 400 |
| 50 | 396/0.40 | 1.4 | 14.5 | 565 |
| 70 | 360/0.50 | 1.4 | 17.0 | 770 |
| 95 | 475/0.50 | 1.6 | 19.0 | 1010 |
| 120 | 608/0.50 | 1.6 | 21.0 | 1260 |
| 150 | 756/0.50 | 1.8 | 23.5 | 1580 |
| 185 | 925/0.50 | 2.0 | 26.0 | 1900 |
| 240 | 1221/0.50 | 2.2 | 29.5 | 2500 |
Reference No 6192y
Flat Twin wire BVVB
| Size of conductor | Nominal thickness of insulation mm | Nominal thickness of sheath mm | Mean overall dimensions | Approx. net weight per km kg | ||
| Nominal cross-sectional area mm2 | Number and diameter of wires mm | Lower limit mm | Upper limit mm | |||
| 1.0 | 1/1.13 | 0.6 | 0.9 | 4.0*6.2 | 4.7*7.4 | 55 |
| 1.5 | 1/1.38 | 0.7 | 0.9 | 4.4*7.0 | 5.4*8.4 | 70 |
| 2.5 | 1/1.78 | 0.8 | 1.0 | 5.2*8.4 | 6.2*9.8 | 105 |
| 4 | 7/0.85 | 0.8 | 1.0 | 5.6*9.6 | 7.2*11.5 | 150 |
| 6 | 7/1.04 | 0.8 | 1.1 | 6.4*10.5 | 8.0*13.0 | 205 |
| 10 | 7/1.35 | 1.0 | 1.2 | 7.8*13.0 | 9.6*16.0 | 325 |
| 16 | 7/1.70 | 1.0 | 1.3 | 9.0*15.5 | 11.0*18.5 | 465 |
Reference No 6242y
Flat-Twin with Bare Earth-continuity Conductor
| Size of conductor | Nominal thickness of insulation mm | Size of earth conductivity conductor no./mm | Nominal thickness of sheath mm | Mean overall dimensions | Approx. net weight per km kg | ||
| Nominal cross- sectional area mm2 | Number and diameter of wires mm | Lower limit mm | Upper limit mm | ||||
| 1.0 | 1/1.13 | 0.6 | 1/1.13 | 0.9 | 4.0*7.2 | 4.7*8.6 | 70 |
| 1.5 | 1/1.38 | 0.7 | 1/1.13 | 0.9 | 4.4*8.2 | 5.4*9.6 | 85 |
| 2.5 | 1/1.78 | 0.8 | 1/1.13 | 1.0 | 5.2*9.4 | 6.2*11.0 | 120 |
| 4 | 7/0.85 | 0.8 | 1/1.38 | 1.0 | 5.6*10.5 | 7.2*13.0 | 175 |
| 6 | 7/1.04 | 0.8 | 1/1.78 | 1.1 | 6.4*12.5 | 8.0*15.0 | 240 |
| 10 | 7/1.35 | 1.0 | 7/0.85 | 1.2 | 7.8*15.5 | 9.6*19.0 | 390 |
| 16 | 7/1.70 | 1.0 | 7/1.04 | 1.3 | 9.0*18 | 11.0*22.0 | 560 |
Factory photos
- Q: all my wires are cut and im trying to find the power/hot wire so that i dont fry anything....im trying to hook up a new radio
- Red is power, black is ground.
- Q: I am doing wiring in my shed on preexisting light fixtures and outlets. the wiring that was disconnect from that carried the electricity to it. What I am trying to do is have all the light fixtures work of an extension cord. I have another extension wire connected to that with the +, - and 0 showing. The fixtures have 3 wires coming out of them what I think to be the power in, power out, and switch. On the fixture on the end I connected my extension cord thing and it work, BUT only that one. The rest of the fixtures did not work, I do see anything wrong. What I thought was that I was connecting to the switch wire so I changed it and it just buzzed with blue light. What is going on?
- A typical light fixture has three wires: black, white and green (or uninsulated copper). If there is no green or uninsulated copper wire, there is generally a ground terminal where the ground wire should be attached. The smaller of the two slots in the extension cord (assuming U.S.) is the hot wire and that's where the black wire should ultimately be connected. The white wire nuetral is connected to the other side, the wider of the two slots. The ground is connected to the U shaped terminal below the two slots. There must be a thousand websites with instructions on how to wire a light fixture. Try getting a diagram from one of them.
- Q: My tail light work but when i hit the breaks everything go out. Any answers? Standard 4 wire
- you might have a broken wire check the plug to see if the prongs aren't broken or damaged also check bulbs
- Q: I have 2 wires coming up a conduit. i need to put those wires into a timer and then to my pump. can anyone explain or has a website with diagrams
- Get yourself a how-to book on basic wiring. This gives you a hands on reference for additional question (and there will be) that arise.
- Q: when we connect the amp wire to the car battery we first remove the negative side then connect the amp wire to the negative side and reconnect the negative battery wire thing. is this correct?
- Battery Wire
- Q: Trying to wire up a toogle swithch for boat light. Have a positive and negiative wire coming from the battery. I have 2 wires coming out of the toggle switch and two wires coming from the light. What goes where? Thanks
- Boat Battery Switch Wiring Diagram
- Q: I have a copper colored wire, a black wire, a red wire and white wire in the little box in the wall?? please help.
- It sounds like you want to switch a light off and on from two locations. Here is what is needed. Two three way switches Open up both boxes and look inside. There should be a black, red, white and copper wire in that box. If so make sure you have a three way switch and take the copper wire and wrap it arond the gren screw. Turn the switch so that you can see the back side. On one side there will be one screw colored black. Place the black wire on that one and turn the switch a little and you will see two brass screws. Put the red wire on the bottom and white on top and tightem them. Now move on over to the other box. This one shoud have the following a black, red, and white w/ground and also a black and white with ground. One of the black wires will be alive and as it is now the only one. locating the live wire you can mark it some how and turn the electricity off at the breaker. Check to make sure all is quiet and safe the box, if so we move on. Take the two copper wires and twist them together a few turns leaving about 4 inch pigtail. Cut the other copper wire and then put the copper pig tail on the green screw. Now take the two white wires and twist them together and secure with a wirenut. Fold them back and stick into the back of the box. Take the wire that was alive and secure that to the black screw. Then take the other black and secure it on the opposite side to the brass one. Put the red one(Travellers) on the top brass screw. You should be all set. Now turn the power back on. Turn the lights on at one box and then go over to the other and turn them off. Now walk back to the first box and turn them on. If this does't work, Shut the power off and go to the first box and remove switch the red and white wires(travellers). Should do the trick kill all power and secure switches in the box If John Hinself is real than I am an Imposter
- Q: How are wired differ from wireless doorbells,next how are they installed and finally the cost of them?
- just remember that while wireless may cost less, you have to have a wire from the outside button to the door bell itself and then you still have to have a way to power it. i have the wireless, it's idiot proof. a couple of batteries and your off and running. standard batteries like D's and maybe AA's good luck to ya. you can get a good variety at home depot or lowe's
- Q: My boat came with a rule 500 2-wire auto pump. I have an on/off switch at the console. My replacement has 3 wires. How do I connect the 3 wires and still use my on/off switch?
- It all depends on the function of the third wire. The instructions that came with the pump should tell you what it's for. If you're only using the pump with the switch you only need to apply 12V and a return to the pump. The switch could be in either leg, but will normally be in the +12V leg. The third wire could be an earth ground for safety or you might have a built in float switch so that you can apply 12V directly to that 3rd wire. When the internal float switch goes high enough it will turn on the bilge pump for you. Your best bet is still to read the instructions before you install it though...
- Q: I got molds done a while back for my finishing wires on my braces. I'm getting them Tuesday, but I'm not really sure what the difference is between finishing wires and the wires I have now. So I'd be delighted if someone could explain:) Also, after you get finishing wires, about how much longer is it until you get your braces off? And, would you recommend the wire retainers, or the clear ones? Why? Thanks in advance!
- Finishing wires are for the final stage of braces. They are pretty strong wires that snap tightly into your brackets so the orthodontist can finely control the teeth and line everything up nicely. I can't say how long until you get your braces off...that's kind of a case by case basis. Typically the wire retainers are better than the clear ones from a hygiene perspective. They can also be adjusted unlike the plastic ones.
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Bare Aluminium Annealed Binding Wire Tie Wire Price
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 5 m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m.t./month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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