Q:I recently bought a 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid, but it came with no owners‘ manual, so I have some questions:1) The Auto-Stop feature on the car does not work at all times. I know that it does not come on if you are driving slower than 10 mph, but in some instances, I have been driving over 10 mph, come to a stop, and the Auto-Stop does not engage. Can anyone help me with this.2) By the radio/dash, there is an ECON button - what does this do, and how do I use it?Any help would be appreciated!!!

1) Auto-Stop feature works under certain conditions, the engine will shut off when you come to a stop. Those conditions are: The engine coolant is nearly up to normal operating temperature. The shift lever is in D or N. You are not pressing on the accelerator pedal. The IMA battery is charged enough to operate the system. The ECON mode is selected, and the outside temperature is above 41°F (5°C), or the fan speed control dial is off. 2) When you press the ECON button with the fan speed control dial on, the Auto Idle Stop works only if the outside temperature is above 41°F(5°C). The indicator in the button lights when the ECON is on. With the ECON on, you can get better fuel economy. You can select the ECON mode with the A/C on or off. In this mode with A/C on, you may feel a slight reduction in cooling efficiency. If you want more cooling, select AUTO.

Q:I called Pep Boys & Midas and a few others but they all indicated that they don't do service for it. The SRS light has been for awhile on my 2000 Honda Accord Coupe. I'm trying to search around for the best price before having to take it to a Honda dealership. I still don't know the price range for removing the SRS airbag light.

The airbag system is not a smart area of the car to be concerned with saving money when safety is at stake. Take it to the Honda dealership who knows the car and be done with it. Parts store do not service or repair cars, though you can have them connect to the OBD-II system and see what the error code is, usually for free.

Q:the hole that the sending unit was covering was removed for about 2 hours(used a rag to cover it up)but there was a full tank of gas in there. When the gas went down to about 3/4 tank, the light came on. Could this be because of air being in the tank? It‘s been 3 days, so how long should I drive before taking it to the mechanic? everything else works just fine

you need to put year/make/model it's very important. so the guess if your car is 1996 or newer, you could have a loose fuel line, as the tank gets pressurized, the computer checks for that pressure. if it doesn't detect it, it gives the check light on. Usually it's the gas cap at fault, but in this case, it could be the lines.

Q:This code is coming from my wife‘s 1998 Toyota Camry (3.0L V6).The print-out that I got from Auto Zone says this:Evaporative emission control system vent control circuit faultProbable causes:1. Open or short circuit condition2. Poor electrical connection3. Faulty CCV vent control solenoidIf anyone has had any similar codes from their car, please let me know if it needs to be checked out right away or if it can wait a week or two.I know, the sooner the better.but realistically, we can‘t get it checked out right away.Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

This is not a serious problem and you can safely operate the car with the check engine light lit. The Evaporative emmission control system is designed to prevent the gas in your gas tank from venting fumes into the atmosphere since gasoline evaporates easily. When the system does not work properly, the check engine light must come on according to government polution regulation law. However, your car is just fine. Make sure the gas cap is on tightly (clicks when you turn it tight) and you are good to go.

Q:Tang Jun car headlights do not shine other things are so bright

Hello, the simplest look at the light bulb bad no

Q:My ABS light is on constantly and the emergency brake light comes on every so often but does not stay on constantly. I scanned the code at Advanced Auto which came up as C1276 left front release valve solenoid malfunction. Does anyone have any clue what may be causing this? Thanks!

While not a Malibu where this post is found, it's still a GM product... Conditions for Running the DTC The engine is running. Conditions for Setting the DTC C1276 One of the following conditions exists: The EBCM detects that delivered torque signal is out of the valid range. The EBCM does not receive the delivered torque signal The following conditions can cause this concern: An open in the delivered torque circuit. An short to ground or voltage in the delivered torque circuit. A wiring problem, terminal corrosion, or poor connection in the delivered torque circuit. A communication frequency problem. A communication duty cycle problem. The EBCM is not receiving information from the PCM. Loose or corroded EBCM ground or PCM ground.

Q:I have the K warning light on my dash, I think it could be a problem with the auto-diagnostics system. Car starts and runs but i cannot get rid of the light. Can any one help.thanksmineral

My heavens, I never have been flashed, but I did unintentionally flash a few folks once. I was in the hospital some time back and decided to take a stoll to the vending area. Well, I wasn't thinking about what I was wearing and, let's just say that those hospital gowns don't leave a lot to the imagination on the backside. The nurse came up from behind me and put a blanket over my shoulders . . . I was wondering why it was a little drafty back there!

Q:My check engine light has been on for a few weeks. At one point, I tightened the gas cap and it went away until I had to fill up with gas, then it reappeared. I thought buying a new gas cap would help, but it didnt. I took it to Auto Zone and it passed their free test. Nothing could be detected.I am at a loss.What else could be causing the problem? She still drives well. Please help!Please dont tell me about the gas cap. It‘s not the gas cap! I have replaced it and I turn it until there are 3 clicks and the check engine light is still on!

Have the new cap tested for the proper pressure reading. Take the car to the dealership. Chances are is the new cap is bad out of the box. Put the old cap back and tighten it down. if the light go out you have your answer. You may hap to get a cap from the dealership to get the proper rated cap. Here is a question for you. Did unhook to the battery in the car for five minutes. This clears the codes out off the system that are called had codes. That stay on for more than five with the light on. Otherwise the code will pop back on from the member and turn the light back on. So tester don't read all the codes. Some test will not clear all the codes. Unhooking the power to the system will clear all the codes.

Q:These are the given details-Definition-BBEvaporative emission control system incorrect purge BBflow.Probable Cause-BB1- Leak in Evap systemBB2- Blocked EVAP purge line.BB3- Faulty purge VSV.Does anyone what is the probleum or any one faced the similar probleum?

Loose or bad gas cap, also check vacuum hoses that attach to air filter housing. Never trust diagnosis from Auto Zone.

Q:this was a week ago, the check engine was on for 3 dayslight now it has not appeared again

The problem may be in the exhaust system, such as a bad flex coupling in the header pipe, or just be caused by a fuel filter that needs replaced. Now the fuel filter replacement is easier (and cheaper) then an exhaust leak to fix. But if you have noticed an increase in engine noise suspect that you have a leak some place between the engine and the front O2 sensor.