• Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 1 - Roofing Insulation Products Redding CA System 1
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 1 - Roofing Insulation Products Redding CA System 2
  • Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 1 - Roofing Insulation Products Redding CA System 3
Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 1 - Roofing Insulation Products Redding CA

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 1 - Roofing Insulation Products Redding CA

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

Q: My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
You need to have an air space between the roof and your insulation to prevent moisture build up on the inside and ice damming on the exterior. So you want to insulate the ceiling of the room, not the roof. For the angled protruding parts they make inserts that go between the joists to give 1-2" of air space under the roof and you can put insulation under that against the wall of the room. Remember that it's trapped air that insulates so don't overstuff when you push it in there. It sounds like you don't have access behind the vertical walls. You may need to break through the plaster between the studs to get in there and put insulation on the wall of the room and on top of the ceiling below. Then get some sheetrock and spackle to repair the hole you had to make, or you can make an insulated removable panel and use that area for storage. But don't store anything in there that can't take heat/cold.
Q: Help please, this home had a water pipe from meter brake in the basement as it was unoccupied/empty, the owner/builder replaced all the drywall, insulation, flooring, carpet, tile, roof, windows, hot water tank, furnace, bathroom and kitchen cabinets, new paint on all, basement ceiling was spray painted black (to hide something or to seal it?). the neighbor says the home was gutted and mold tested three times, its completely redone basically a new home inside, feedback please, it "looks" great
the only element i will think of of, is your carpet takes up allot of the moisture that comes into your homestead, so given which you took that carpet up, your having extra of a buildup on the tile, even nevertheless the flooring would desire to not be moist, they are nonetheless taking moisture in throughout the air. Bleach will help kill the mould, not on the plant life nevertheless, they make sprays for that at any homestead progression keep. desire this allows.
Q: we replacing our torched down rubber roof and my contractor said we need to install a 1 inch rigid insulation..is the insulation needed?
You would be foolish not to add the rigid foam under the new rubber roof. It gives you a new surface for an expensive roof. Definitely follow the contractors advice on this one.
Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
You can remove it, but why not replace it with rolled insulation? I'm sure you're local State Board of Health would disaprove of not having your tenant's homes properly insulated. You could get into a lot of legal trouble if you do not keep you apartment building properly maintained.
Q: the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
use a polythene sheet . i dont know about where u live but where i live we get very long and broad size thick polythene sheets to make shelter or the protect from rain . even poor ppl use it to make slums . they attach a sheet in bamboo and they bury half of that bamboo stick inside the ground and by arranging 4 of them like this in a square area they make a bamboo frame. then as i said they attach sheet and make temporary home but they live there for years.
Q: a roof that is built with the insulation covering the waterproof membrain is ?
Not done properly.
Q: is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
No it is not EVER safe! Roofing material needs to breathe. Anywhere that insulation is applied to the underside of the roof deck the roofing material will warp and then leak. You have to have a cushion of air between the underside of the decking and the insulation
Q: hot because of all the added insulation. Is that what the insulation will do? Someone told me that it will save us on our cooling/heating bills, and that it will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer now. Is this true?
Very humorous!!! you be attentive to final evening I had a dream that i became eating a significant marshmallow, as quickly as I awakened this morning my pillow became long previous! Ha Ha Ha the previous ones are the ultimate....
Q: I added a screened room to my mobile home. I also have vinyl windows. in the summer the sun beats down on the home almost all day Someone told me I could have insulation installed in the roof panels, and that i may even be able to do it myself. Right now it's impossible to enjoy my patio between 1-5pm because it so hot you can't breath. I'm in the Pasco, FL area - 34667Appreciate any help you can give
Mobile home refoofing, I had it done, and they did it in one day. They came and installed 2inch foiled insulation right over the existing roof. Then they installed new roof panels..Unbeliveable how much cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. It will pay for itself living up here in the Northeast..
Q: The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
I was an insulation installer for a time and this is what we did. We never took out old insulation; this is even when we blew it into the walls. We used cellulose wood fiber aka recycled paper preferable news paper and phone books. After the stuff was ground up Borax and Boric acid was added to make it fire proof. This stuff was blown in on top of the old stuff, usually 6 to 8 inches. All you do is have one person in the attic who sits down, with a hose in hand you plow it in and take measurement as you move along to be sure it is the thickness you want. Try to keep it even and smooth (like icing a cake). The other person stands next to the blower, which is place outside our in the garage (ours was in the back of a truck). This person must keep the hopper full and walk from the blower to the attic to physically look at you for safety reasons. Both must were face mask over your mouth and nose, you may want to wear goggles as well. I didn’t like goggles because they fogged up. Before you start work out emergency calls and other communication. We did this by turning the blower on and off with the remote switch (which you must have in the attic). If you take the square footage of your attic to the store the sales person can tell you how much you need. This info use to be on the back of the bag and it is easy to do. Make sure you have the correct number of roof vent for the square footage of your space. Have a fun time doing it and it will be over in no time! The blowers may have the formula to figure how much you can do per square foot per hour. This will let you budget your time better, remember that formula is usually how much can be blown per hour; the other task will eat into that time frame. To do the side walls is a bit more involved, but if you need help with that as well I would be glad to tell you the details.

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