• WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 1
  • WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 2
  • WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 3
WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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1. Product Introduction

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance

Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

Head: 5~60m

Power: 1.5~315kw

Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.

 

4. Structure Characteristic

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions.

 

5. Impeller Design Characteristics

For the feculence pass freely, it must be widen the flowing passage of impeller, for the big pump, can used for double-vane, or three-vane, for the small pump, it used for single(double) flowing passage, like a bent pipe has same section, it has a good passing characteristic, avoid stop, convolve caused by slowing current possibly. The especially flowing passage of impeller, cooperate with logical volute, made the paper, soft goods, garbage bag and other material in sewage can passing freely and the pump have no vibration in the course of running-in and load through the impeller balance between dynamic and static state.

 

6. FAQ

1) Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

2) Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

3) If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.



WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump




Q:I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!
A water pump is mostly pretty obvious when it is going/gone it chirps it squeaks and your temperature will usually be higher than it usually was [not always]. As for a timing belt... they are relatively inexpensive, the labor isnt that bad since the car is VERY easy to work on, and it is difficult to tell when one is needed since the most it will make is a whining noise when its getting weaker, only sometimes though. This is hard to hear too. Best advice I have is to just get a couple appraisals/estimates, or have a friend who is mechanically savvy take a look to see if he/she can tell if the belt is worn to the point where it needs replacing. I had a timing belt done for $120 parts and labor on a 91 accord (same car)
Q:If a submersible pump to shake the insulation, water pump distance more than 20 meters away from the cable distribution box is fixed, at this time to shake the insulation in the distance distribution box can only shake, disconnect the power cable is connected with the shake table, the ground end is connected with the distribution box in such a shake, I want to ask is, what is this shake is not the pump shell must be reliable grounding to shake ah? Now the pump casing is not grounded, just immersed in water, immersed in the water, is not equal to good grounding ah?
The cable head in the distribution box should be relieved. What's more, the motor insulation is not the pump insulation. Usually, just shake it in the middle of the water and the ground.
Q:1998 BMW 328i : to replace water pump, thermostat and gaskets, brake flush, fuel system cleaning with tune up,drive belt for 90k serivce; totally how much bucks?thx a lot !
You will be lucky if you pay only $500. Plan on a GRAND...
Q:my marine engine doesnt pump water can you tell me some faults can be thanks vic
year, make and model. regardless of what it is, most likely answer is the impeller has failed completely because it was not serviced regularly as it should of been. if you were out motoring around and it stalled out before you noticed it, you overheated the engine and it probably needs work for it to run again, if its even repairable. outboard the impeller is located just on top of the lower unit. pretty simple to change, but the exact procedure varies depending on year, make and model. sterndrives can be very similiar and just as easy, or different and even easier. depends on year, make and model. inboards the impeller is belt driven. look for the part dirven by the engine belt(s) with two hoses attached, probably down low on one side.
Q:cars leaking coolant from the right side just dont kno if its the water pump
Water pump will be at the front center of the engine usually about 2 behind the fan belt Please be very careful never to allow the vehicle to run low on coolant or serious and expensive engine damage will occur. If in doubt don't drive it until its fixed Take a flashlight and take a good look over the whole engine compartment giving close attention to all the hoses connecting the engine to the radiator its best to find the exact location of the leak and get it fixed.Coolant leaks usually leave a discolored stain so this may help in finding it. Also take a look at the carpet on both front floorpans of the vehicle its possible that the cars heater may have failed and this will leak coolant all over either 1 or both floor pans which can then leak out on to the ground below via a drain hole.
Q:My toyota 99 camry stalled and would not start. engine turned over and all lights worked. had the oil changed 3 weeks ago and they told me their was a noise and it might be the water pump. my questions are does this sound like the water pump? Do they usually change the timing belt and is this necessary? is this something that we can do at home? thank-you for any info out their!
camry requires special tools and not easily accesible. timing belt is a '' good idea for a 99
Q:I have replaced my water heater and water pump because the owner before me didnt drain it over the winter... but know the water suputers when the pump is on.. when I hook up to city water it works great.. I have not been able to find any leaks.. any ideas???
sounds like not enough pressure try to cypher air through it before using, good luck
Q:I have a 2005 Mazda RX8 and I was wondering if upgrading the water pump on my car would void the warranty I have with Mazda. I know such modifications such as air intakes and exhaust systems do not void warranty. The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act says Legally, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle. So is it safe to say it's alright to install? Thanks!
You are correct about the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act. Any part that doesn't change the form, fit, or function can be used in place of the OEM part. My question is what is this upgraded pump going to do for you. Does it deliver more water per minute? If you have no other modifications, my wouldn't a stock or exact replacement work for you? If the pump adds water delivery, then they could argue that the water is traveling too fast in the system to effectively cool the engine.
Q:i installed a new pump don't know how to increase water pressure and to what what pressure it should be set
This is very simple i would sugest the pressure to be set betwene 60 to 70 NO MORE THAN 70. 1. turn off power to pump (ether the circut breaker or a switch near the pressure switch) you dont want to weld the wrench to the switch. 2. remove the cover to the pressure switch its self (usly one #2 phillips screw) 3. now you will see 4 wires under some sloted screws nearest to the front of the switch, behint that is 1 or 2 bolts with a spring and a nut. 4. if you see 2 bolts you will want to turn the nut on the larger one to the right. you will want to tighten it about 1 to 2 full turns. (the same goes if there is only one bolt also) 5. now open the valve that is on the tank untill you here the switch click. then close the valve. 6. turn the power back on tio the pump and watch the pressure gauge on the tank. i DO NOT RECOMEND MORE THAN 70PSI. 7. if it goes over the pressure you want repete steps above exept loosen the nut in about 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you reach the desired pressure 8. if it does not reach your desired pressure then you do the same thing exept tighten the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you attain your desired pressure. 9. when the pressure is reached, replace cover so you dont risk rusting the contacts. if you need more help feel free to email me. and i will assist you in any way that i can.
Q:Car is ford taurus 98.The car had some problems including overheating as thermostat was bad so was was not working. i drove it 25 miles to garage (i had to stop once because too hot to let it cool), i brought it to Ford who replaced the thermostat. Now they tell me some bits of thermostat broke and they need to replace the waterpump and want $620 for it. The other repair were also extremely expensive and i want to bring it to another garage 1.3 miles away on flat road.-1- is it safe to drive 1.3 mile with no water pump or should iget it towed?-2- should i have to pay for the water pump or is it ford's fault if they did not remove the bits of broken thermostat before reconnecting new thermostat to hose ? Can i prove that the pump was working when i came in if i drove 25 miles with it ?Thanks for your help.
1) it is safe to drive 1.3 miles if the weather is cold and you do not have to idle a lot - You are MUCH safer having it towed and do you want to risk an engine over a $75 tow fee? I would tow it 2) you should probably have to pay for the water pump - there is no way to prove it did not break while you were driving with it overheating, there could have been parts while you were driving. It is too bad they use plastic vanes now days, old water pumps could have taken the wear. It would be a lot cheaper if you could replace the water pump, but it can be very hard with modern vehicles. I would do my 69 Chevy myself easy but I would have to examine the Taurus before I would brave it out - $600 might be reasonable for a dealership to replace a water pump - I hope you find a mechanic you trust.

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